Yesterday's rainfall: 0.00 in
Today's growing degree-days (base 50°F): 26.8
| Day | High | Low | Precip | Conditions |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Sun, Aug 16 | 84° | 70° | — | Overcast |
| Mon, Aug 17 | 76° | 68° | — | Overcast |
| Tue, Aug 18 | 77° | 59° | — | Overcast |
| Wed, Aug 19 | 73° | 63° | 0.24 in (55%) | Slight rain |
Yesterday's rainfall: None
Today's growing degree-days (base 50°F): 23.7
| Day | High | Low | Precip | Conditions |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Fri, Aug 14 | 82° | 66° | — | Overcast |
| Sat, Aug 15 | 81° | 63° | 0.35 in (38%) | Heavy rain |
| Sun, Aug 16 | 84° | 70° | 0.04 in (64%) | Light drizzle |
| Mon, Aug 17 | 72° | 62° | 0.03 in (51%) | Light drizzle |
When floods hit agricultural lands, the immediate crop losses often capture the headlines, but for growers of perennial crops like fruit trees and grapevines, the long-term damage can be far more insidious and devastating. OSU VegNet News highlights that extended periods of water in an orchard or vineyard don't just impact the current harvest; the trees and grapevines themselves can decline or even die over time [1]. This creates a compounding problem, leading to significant replacement costs and years of lost production as new plants mature. Thankfully, the USDA recognizes this unique challenge and offers crucial support through its Farm Service Agency’s (FSA) Tree Assistance Program (TAP) [1]. This program provides a vital safety net, helping growers mitigate the financial strain of replanting and rebuilding after such prolonged environmental stress, underscoring the importance of specialized aid for the distinct needs of different agricultural sectors.
Even experienced gardeners can face setbacks, and "The Millennial Gardener" recently shared a candid look at why his container garden completely failed this season, contrasting sharply with the "massive harvests" from his thriving raised beds [1]. He pinpointed four "stupid mistakes" he made, offering crucial lessons for anyone growing in pots.
First up was rushing the process and neglecting proper soil preparation. After dedicating significant time and effort to rehabilitating his raised garden beds, his container setup received little to no love. Instead of fresh soil or thoughtful amendments, he simply reused old grow bags that had weathered the elements, adding only a touch of organic fertilizer before transplanting [1]. The takeaway? Soil preparation isn't a last-minute chore; it needs months for nutrients to break down and enrich the soil. Without this foundational care, plants struggled, turning what should have been a joy into a "burden" for the gardener. His advice is clear: prioritize quality over quantity – plant fewer plants, but give them ample attention [1].
His second major misstep involved insufficient shade protection. While his covered raised beds allowed tomatoes and peppers to flourish well into the season, the container plants baked in the full sun. The gardener argues that many popular annual vegetables aren't true "full sun species" but rather thrive in dappled light, much like they would as understory plants in their native subtropical and tropical environments. Once the UV index climbs high in late spring and summer, shade cloth becomes indispensable for mimicking these natural conditions and preventing plant stress [1].
Yesterday's rainfall: 0.02 in
Today's growing degree-days (base 50°F): 23.1
| Day | High | Low | Precip | Conditions |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Thu, Aug 13 | 82° | 64° | — | Fog |
| Fri, Aug 14 | 77° | 68° | 0.10 in (15%) | Slight rain |
| Sat, Aug 15 | 81° | 62° | 0.14 in (48%) | Slight rain showers |
| Sun, Aug 16 | 82° | 71° | 0.10 in (64%) | Moderate drizzle |
Heavy rainfall and the subsequent flooding can be truly devastating for our gardens, but beyond the visible damage to plants and soil, there's a critical, often overlooked concern: food safety. As researchers Melanie L. Lewis Ivey and Sanja Ilic from OSU VegNet News point out, the most important consideration after floodwater has entered your garden plot is the potential for contamination [1]. Floodwater isn't just water; it can carry a dangerous cocktail of sewage, animal waste, agricultural runoff, chemicals, heavy metals, and a host of human and plant pathogens. This means that even if a crop appears salvageable, the invisible threats within the floodwater can render it unsafe for consumption. Understanding these risks is crucial for every gardener, ensuring that while we strive to nurture our plants, we also prioritize the health and safety of our families.
***
Source Footnotes: [1] "When Crops Flood: What Farmers and Gardeners Should Do" — OSU VegNet News — https://u.osu.edu/vegnetnews/2026/08/13/when-crops-flood-what-farmers-and-gardeners-should-do
Ever heard that you should never water your plants' leaves? Well, prepare to have your gardening world gently shaken! A recent deep dive into plant care has debunked the long-standing myth that watering leaves is inherently bad for your plants [1].
The reality, it turns out, is far more nuanced. Watering leaves isn't problematic on its own; it's the *conditions* under which you do it that matter. Just like rain naturally wets leaves, tap water can too, without causing harm. In fact, tap water, being treated, might even contain fewer disease spores than stagnant rain barrel water! The common belief that water droplets act like tiny magnifying glasses to burn leaves is also a myth; instead, water can actually help wash off films (like smoke residue) that act as a "sunscreen," potentially improving photosynthesis [1].
So, when *shouldn't* you water leaves? The main culprits are environments that promote fungal and bacterial growth. If you have plants packed closely together, creating an "island effect" with high heat, high moisture, and poor airflow, then wetting leaves can indeed encourage issues. The other key condition is the presence of existing disease spores in the soil or mulch. Water splashing from the soil onto leaves can then transfer these spores, leading to problems like powdery mildew [1]. The takeaway? Focus on good airflow and keeping your growing environment healthy, and you can generally give your plants a refreshing shower without worry!
Source Footnote List: [1] Gardening In Canada — https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QQfzW4ShzyA
As the gardening season progresses, many of us are still enjoying a bounty of fresh tomatoes, but for those in colder climates, the reality of the first frost looms. If you've got tomato plants still vigorously producing flowers, you might be wondering when to tell them to "stop" and focus on ripening existing fruit. According to one Canadian gardening expert, the general rule throughout most of the season is actually *not* to remove flowers – they're potential tomatoes, after all [1].
However, there comes a point late in the season when new flowers simply won't have enough time to develop into usable fruit before cold weather hits. The key is to know your average first frost date for your specific location (not just your gardening zone). Once you have that date, start counting backward. Around 6-8 weeks before your first frost date, it's time to become skeptical of new flower clusters. At this point, you can mark what you believe will be your "last" viable flower cluster and remove any new flowers that appear above it. You're not cutting leaves yet, just redirecting energy from new blooms that won't make it [1].
Then, 4-6 weeks before your first frost date, it's time to "top" your indeterminate tomato plants. This involves removing the apical meristem – the very tip of the main stem – typically just above the highest fruit cluster you want to ripen. This drastic step forces the plant to refocus its energy into ripening the fruit already on the vine [1].
Keep in mind that these timings can vary based on your tomato varieties. Faster-ripening cherry tomatoes can be left to flower and top later, while slower-growing beefsteak types might need earlier intervention. Also, this advice mainly applies to *indeterminate* tomatoes; *determinate* varieties should generally be left alone, as topping can stress them too much. And don't worry about green tomatoes still on the vine – if they've reached the "breaker stage" (just beginning to show a hint of color) before frost, they'll happily ripen indoors on your counter [1].
Yesterday's rainfall: 0.41 in
Today's growing degree-days (base 50°F): 19.2
| Day | High | Low | Precip | Conditions |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Wed, Aug 12 | 75° | 64° | 0.70 in (43%) | Violent rain showers |
| Thu, Aug 13 | 78° | 66° | — | Overcast |
| Fri, Aug 14 | 78° | 63° | — | Overcast |
| Sat, Aug 15 | 75° | 62° | — | Overcast |
Yesterday's rainfall: 0.16 in
Today's growing degree-days (base 50°F): 24.0
| Day | High | Low | Precip | Conditions |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Tue, Aug 11 | 80° | 68° | 0.83 in (64%) | Violent rain showers |
| Wed, Aug 12 | 80° | 66° | — | Overcast |
| Thu, Aug 13 | 81° | 65° | 0.02 in (44%) | Moderate drizzle |
| Fri, Aug 14 | 72° | 61° | — | Overcast |
Ever wondered about a secret weapon for your plants that most gardeners overlook? According to Hoocho, who has personally witnessed incredible changes in his plants [1], one of the most underrated and underutilized nutrients you can offer your garden is silicon, or silica in its bioavailable form. While not considered "essential" like nitrogen, phosphorus, or potassium, silicon acts like an incredible multi-tool for plant health, structure, and defense.
Hoocho explains that silicon works by forming a kind of "liquid amorphous glass" within plant tissues and beneath the leaf cuticle. This physical reinforcement makes plants hardier and significantly more resistant to pests like mites and beetles. It also helps fight fungal pathogens by creating a physical barrier and activating the plant's internal immune system, which produces defensive compounds. Beyond pest and disease resistance, silicon helps plants tolerate environmental stresses like drought, freezing temperatures, and UV radiation. Incredibly, it’s 20 times more energy-efficient for plants to use for structural support compared to lignin, freeing up vital resources for growth and production. Many soils are depleted of bioavailable silicon, and it’s entirely absent in hydroponic systems unless consciously added, making supplementation a game-changer for overall plant vigor and productivity [1].
Meanwhile, for those tending grapevines, a different kind of plant health focus is emerging. With persistent rainy forecasts, OSU VegNet News is urging growers to stay vigilant against grape downy mildew [2]. While grape clusters typically develop age-related resistance once they reach pea-size, continuous wet weather creates ideal conditions for this fungal disease to flourish, underscoring the need to maintain management protocols even when you might be tempted to relax them [2].
There's an important heads-up for everyone engaged with fresh produce, whether you're a grower or a consumer. With a current Cyclospora outbreak being monitored, it's a timely reminder of the critical importance of reliable information. While media reports certainly play a valuable role in raising general awareness about foodborne pathogen outbreaks, they may not always contain the most current, accurate, or actionable guidance needed to respond effectively. Ohio State University's VegNet News specifically advises that both growers and consumers should prioritize consulting their state agriculture and public health specialists [1]. These official channels are your best resource for the very latest updates and specific recommendations for navigating any foodborne illness linked to fresh produce. They can offer precise steps to mitigate risks, ensure product safety, and protect public health, making them indispensable during a dynamic situation like an outbreak. It's a proactive step that helps keep our gardens, and our plates, safe.
Yesterday's rainfall: 0.02 in
Today's growing degree-days (base 50°F): 25.3
| Day | High | Low | Precip | Conditions |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Mon, Aug 10 | 83° | 68° | 0.02 in (58%) | Light drizzle |
| Tue, Aug 11 | 84° | 68° | 0.31 in (75%) | Moderate rain |
| Wed, Aug 12 | 81° | 62° | — | Overcast |
| Thu, Aug 13 | 77° | 66° | — | Overcast |
Friends, have you ever heard of the pawpaw? If not, prepare to have your gardening horizons — and your tastebuds — delightfully expanded! This incredible fruit, often affectionately called "America's lost fruit tree," is actually the largest edible fruit native to North America, yet it remains a wonderfully kept secret for most [1].
Imagine savoring a fruit that tastes like a dreamy fusion of banana, mango, and even pineapple or marshmallow, all wrapped in a creamy, custard-like texture [1]. The best part? You don't need a tropical climate to grow it! The pawpaw, a unique member of the Custard Apple family, is surprisingly cold-hardy, thriving happily in zones 4 through 9, capable of enduring temperatures as low as -20°F [1]. It's truly a "gardening hack" for those of us who long for exotic flavors but live in chillier regions [1].
What makes the pawpaw even more enticing is its laid-back nature. As The Millennial Gardener puts it, it's practically a "lazy gardener's dream," suffering from almost no pests or diseases [1]. But its appeal isn't just modern; this fruit has deep roots in American history. Even George Washington was reportedly a devoted fan, chilling pawpaws as a revolutionary-era "ice cream" and planting them at his Mount Vernon estate [1]. So, if you're keen to discover a unique, easy-to-grow tree that delivers a taste of the tropics and a rich historical tale, the pawpaw truly deserves a spot on your must-try list [1].
If you've ever dreamt of cultivating a mini-orchard in your backyard, even in a small space, one Florida gardener is showing just what's possible. From a quarter-acre plot, they're growing an impressive twenty different fruit trees, sharing insights into which varieties truly thrive in the Sunshine State and which might not be worth the effort [1].
This real-world experiment highlights both triumphs and tribulations in small-space fruit growing. For instance, mini mulberry trees (like the World's Best and Thai Dwarf) proved to be prolific producers, yielding about 40 pounds by their first year, and a Yehuda loquat also delivered a generous 5 gallons of fruit by its third year. The Tropic Beauty peach was a standout success, producing so abundantly by its third year that the harvest was impossible to consume entirely. For those looking for quicker gratification, Celeste figs and various potted blueberry plants started fruiting within their first year [1].
However, the journey isn't without its challenges. A "wonderful" pomegranate proved anything but, producing only a single fruit in five years and earning itself a removal notice. Plums faced "serious issues," and pineapples struggled through a tough winter. The slow-and-steady approach is needed for some, like the potted red jaboticaba, which took six years to fruit but now provides 2-4 gallons annually. Even a venerable Meyer's lemon, despite battling citrus greening disease, has been resiliently regrown from cuttings. This firsthand account offers invaluable lessons for aspiring fruit growers, emphasizing the importance of choosing the right varieties for your climate and being prepared for a bit of trial and error [1]. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gztJZ5Frcds