Yesterday's rainfall: None
Today's growing degree-days (base 50°F): 23.5
| Day | High | Low | Precip | Conditions |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Sun, Jun 14 | 84° | 63° | 0.48 in (80%) | Moderate rain |
| Mon, Jun 15 | 68° | 54° | — | Overcast |
| Tue, Jun 16 | 72° | 55° | 0.15 in (44%) | Slight rain showers |
| Wed, Jun 17 | 70° | 57° | 0.23 in (62%) | Moderate rain showers |
If you've ever stared at a seed catalog feeling equal parts excited and overwhelmed, a garden subscription box might be exactly the nudge you need. The folks at Homegrown Florida recently cracked open their latest delivery from GrowHoss — specifically the "Small Sprouts" monthly box — and it's a charming reminder that gardening doesn't have to start with a grand plan [1].
This month's theme was herbs, and the box leaned into it fully: seed discs for chives, thyme, oregano, parsley, cilantro, and basil arrived alongside self-watering pots, a seed-starting mix, chalk plant tags, and a marker. But what makes the subscription feel genuinely thoughtful rather than just a bag of seeds is the included booklet — a monthly guide that covers what you're growing, how to grow it, and what to *do* with it once it's ready. This month featured a chimichurri sauce recipe, which is a lovely way to close the loop between garden and kitchen.
The seed discs were a first-time discovery even for the host, and they lived up to the novelty: just press into moistened soil and water in. Genuinely hard to mess up. That ease of entry is really the box's strongest selling point — it lowers the barrier for newer gardeners while still keeping things interesting for more experienced growers who just want something fresh to try each month.
If you're looking for a low-commitment way to expand what you're growing — especially herbs, which reward you quickly — this is a fun option worth exploring.
If you've spent years diligently pinching off tomato suckers in pursuit of a bigger, better harvest, prepare for a fascinating paradigm shift! New research suggests that for most home gardeners, this long-held advice might actually be counterproductive [1].
The common wisdom has been that removing these side shoots, or "suckers," diverts the plant's energy into producing larger, higher-quality fruit on the main stem. However, a soil scientist from Gardening In Canada explains that this understanding misrepresents how plants operate. Tomatoes aren't working from a finite energy "savings account"; they're more like active solar panels, constantly generating energy through photosynthesis. Removing suckers means removing additional "solar panels" and, crucially, potential sites for more flowers and fruit [1].
So, where did this ubiquitous pruning advice come from? It largely originated from commercial farming, where growers have very specific goals: maximizing yield per square foot, ensuring uniform fruit size for packaging, and achieving quick, timed harvests to meet contracts. For a home gardener, who generally prioritizes overall abundance and doesn't mind a wonky-shaped tomato, these commercial drivers don't typically apply [1].
Does that mean you should *never* remove a sucker? Not necessarily. It's all about context! Strategic pruning can still make sense if you're entering a giant tomato competition (aiming for one massive fruit), or if you're battling disease or pest pressure due to poor airflow from overly dense foliage. Pruning might also be beneficial when growing in a greenhouse, in containers, or if your plants are simply too tightly packed, leading to competition for light, water, and nutrients [1]. The key, then, is to understand *why* you might prune, rather than just doing it out of habit.
Yesterday's rainfall: None
Today's growing degree-days (base 50°F): 23.6
| Day | High | Low | Precip | Conditions |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Sat, Jun 13 | 86° | 62° | — | Overcast |
| Sun, Jun 14 | 79° | 62° | 0.33 in (80%) | Heavy rain |
| Mon, Jun 15 | 72° | 53° | 0.03 in (18%) | Slight rain |
| Tue, Jun 16 | 73° | 54° | 0.03 in (28%) | Light drizzle |
If you've ever brought home a beautiful, bushy basil plant from the supermarket only to watch it mysteriously wither and die a few days later, you're certainly not alone—and it turns out, it's not your fault! As GrowVeg reveals, those lush pots of herbs are actually designed for a quick sale, not long-term survival [1].
The secret is that what looks like one healthy plant is, in fact, dozens of tiny seedlings crammed "shoulder to shoulder" into a single small pot. This intense overcrowding leads to fierce competition for light, water, and nutrients, quickly exhausting the limited resources available. Commercial growers pack them this way to make the pots look appealing and full for immediate purchase, prioritizing rapid turnover over the plant's future health. Once these heavily cultivated plants leave their optimal greenhouse environment and enter your home, they're simply too stressed and overcrowded to cope [1].
The good news? You can absolutely rescue these seemingly doomed herbs and turn them into multiple thriving plants! GrowVeg demonstrates a simple method: gently remove the entire clump from its pot and carefully tease apart the individual seedlings. Don't worry if a few roots snap – basil is surprisingly robust. From a single supermarket pot, you can often separate 10-15 viable seedlings! Repot each individual seedling into its own pot, using a light, airy, well-draining potting mix (a bit of perlite helps basil in particular). Give them a good watering to settle the soil, and within a few days, you'll have a small army of happy basil plants ready to provide fresh pickings for months to come [1].
Sources: [1] GrowVeg — "The Real Reason Supermarket Basil Always Dies" — https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=96XcfUnan90
It seems one gardener's best-laid plans for 2026 have already gone deliciously awry! The creator behind Homegrown Florida candidly admitted to breaking her New Year's resolution to focus solely on existing fruit trees. Despite her initial resolve to maximize current production, the allure of expansion proved too strong, and she's back to growing her backyard orchard [1]. This time around, she's not just adding new trees but also sharing her revised approach to planting and general gardening tips. For those looking to get their hands dirty, her latest video even walks viewers through the process of planting a fruit tree, offering insights on how she's doing things differently in this new wave of garden expansion [1].
Yesterday's rainfall: None
Today's growing degree-days (base 50°F): 22.3
| Day | High | Low | Precip | Conditions |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Fri, Jun 12 | 78° | 67° | 0.00 in (30%) | Light drizzle |
| Sat, Jun 13 | 87° | 61° | — | Overcast |
| Sun, Jun 14 | 72° | 59° | 0.46 in (87%) | Violent rain showers |
| Mon, Jun 15 | 69° | 50° | — | Overcast |
If you're looking to boost your garden's output this season, we've got a couple of fresh tips! First off, for those struggling with cucumber production, The Millennial Gardener reveals that growing these common veggies can be surprisingly tricky, yet incredibly rewarding once you know the secrets [1]. After a decade of experience, he emphasizes one primary reason for low yield: not picking cucumbers often enough. The plants are designed to complete their life cycle once they set seed, so frequent harvesting actually encourages them to produce more fruit for an "exploding" harvest all summer long [1].
Meanwhile, a commonly shared tomato "hack" is being called out as potentially counterproductive for home growers. Gardening In Canada highlights that the widespread advice to prune off tomato "suckers" (new shoots that emerge between the main stem and a leaf branch) is largely aimed at commercial growers [2]. These big farms prune suckers to achieve uniform fruit size and appearance for grocery store shelves. However, for us home gardeners who prioritize *volume* over perfect uniformity, leaving those suckers can actually be beneficial! They eventually produce flowers and fruit, often earlier in the season than the plant's main stem [2]. While it's still wise to prune any lower leaves touching the ground to prevent disease and improve airflow, you might want to reconsider removing those suckers if your goal is a metric buttload of tomatoes. Give it a shot on a few plants and see if you notice a difference [2]!
As we continue through spring, it's a good time to be extra vigilant about our plants, especially with the fluctuating weather. If you're a fruit grower, watch out for bacterial diseases, which can thrive in wet spring conditions, whether it's cool or warm [1]. Ohio State University experts note that rain, prolonged leaf wetness, frost damage, wind, and plant wounds can all provide openings for bacteria to spread and infect your fruit crops [1].
Beyond disease, many gardeners face the heartbreaking sight of healthy transplants suddenly wilting or dying after being moved to their outdoor beds. It turns out, "transplant shock" isn't just one thing, but rather a host of factors that can lead to a plant's demise [2]. A major culprit is damage or drying of the microscopic root hairs that absorb water and nutrients, which can happen during handling or if roots are exposed to air for too long [2].
Temperature shock is another subtle but detrimental issue, particularly in cooler climates. Plants grown in warm indoor environments struggle when exposed to significantly lower outdoor nighttime temperatures or even daytime highs [2]. Similarly, the intense sunlight outdoors can "sunburn" indoor-grown plants, which have thinner leaves and less protective wax [2]. To give your new plants the best start, consider hardening them off gradually to outdoor conditions, protecting roots during transplanting, and being mindful of planting depth and matching soil textures between the pot and the garden bed [2].
For those in the agricultural world, there's an important date to keep in mind: the 2026 Manure Science Review. This one-day educational event, set to take place at Homan, Inc. in Maria Stein, Ohio, is poised to be a key gathering for agricultural professionals, producers, and industry experts [1]. It promises to cover the very latest research, technologies, and best practices essential for effective manure management and safeguarding water quality [1].
In our ongoing conversation about soil and nutrient management, the handling of manure plays an absolutely critical role. It’s far more than just a byproduct; it’s a valuable resource that, when managed correctly, can significantly enhance soil fertility and structure, reducing the need for synthetic fertilizers. However, improper management can lead to nutrient leaching, greenhouse gas emissions, and water pollution. That's why events like the Manure Science Review are so vital. They provide a platform to explore innovative approaches, from optimizing application rates and timing to implementing advanced treatment technologies. For anyone looking to improve sustainability, nutrient cycling efficiency, and environmental compliance on their farm or within their practice, this review will offer actionable insights and foster a deeper understanding of responsible resource stewardship.
Yesterday's rainfall: 1.00 in
Today's growing degree-days (base 50°F): 27.5
| Day | High | Low | Precip | Conditions |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Thu, Jun 11 | 83° | 72° | — | Overcast |
| Fri, Jun 12 | 77° | 66° | 0.03 in (22%) | Moderate drizzle |
| Sat, Jun 13 | 79° | 58° | — | Overcast |
| Sun, Jun 14 | 72° | 57° | 0.06 in (72%) | Moderate drizzle |
If you've got old or unwanted pesticides taking up space in your barn or storage shed, Ohio farmers have a timely opportunity to clear them out responsibly this summer. The Ohio Department of Agriculture is sponsoring three free farm pesticide disposal collection events across the state, with stops in Athens, Crawford, and Miami counties beginning August 3, 2026 [1].
These events are a genuinely useful resource — improper pesticide storage and disposal can pose real risks to soil, water, and human health, and the cost of professional chemical disposal can otherwise be a barrier for small and mid-sized farm operations. Events like these take that burden off individual growers while keeping hazardous materials out of landfills and waterways.
If you farm in or near any of those three counties, it's worth marking your calendar and checking the ODA's guidance on what materials are accepted and how to prepare them for drop-off. Participation is typically straightforward, but having containers properly labeled and secured for transport is always good practice. Spreading the word to neighboring farmers who might not be plugged into extension networks is a small gesture that can make a real difference in community-wide environmental stewardship.
Big news for our green-thumbed professionals and enthusiasts alike! The dates and location for the Tri-State Green Industry Conference in 2027 have just been announced, giving everyone plenty of time to mark their calendars [1]. This is a cornerstone event for anyone in landscaping, horticulture, arboriculture, or managing a garden center across Ohio, Indiana, and Kentucky.
Scheduled for February 2-4, 2027, the conference will be held at the Duke Energy Convention Center in Cincinnati. What makes this event particularly significant is its backing: it's a collaborative effort organized by the Extensions of Ohio State University, Purdue University, and the University of Kentucky. This strong academic partnership ensures attendees will benefit from top-tier, research-backed educational sessions, covering everything from cutting-edge plant health management to sustainable design principles and innovative business strategies. Beyond the informative talks, it's a prime opportunity for industry professionals to network, exchange ideas, and explore the latest products and technologies showcased at the trade show. Announcing it so far in advance truly highlights the importance of this annual gathering for keeping the regional green industry vibrant and current.
If you're dreaming of a bountiful tomato harvest this year, "Gardening In Canada" has some golden advice beyond just the right pot. Following up on a previous video where he showcased his "healthiest tomato" ever, focusing then on optimal container choices, he's now delving into the other critical factors that contributed to the remarkable health and vigor of his prize plant, affectionately dubbed "this bad boy." This time, the focus is squarely on environmental conditions and nutrition: getting the temperatures just right, ensuring adequate lighting, providing the correct fertilizer, and cultivating ideal soil conditions are paramount for robust growth [1].
Beyond the hands-on tips, the host also highlighted some useful tools he's involved with. He helped design a plant sensor, which could be a game-changer for monitoring those crucial environmental factors like soil moisture and temperature, allowing for more precise care. For those who like to plan their garden meticulously, he also shared a 2024 Garden Planner, perfect for organizing your planting schedule, tracking progress, and noting what worked best each season [1]. These resources aim to equip home gardeners with both the knowledge and the gadgets to achieve their best harvest yet.
Yesterday's rainfall: None
Today's growing degree-days (base 50°F): 29.5
| Day | High | Low | Precip | Conditions |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Wed, Jun 10 | 88° | 71° | 0.83 in (56%) | Thunderstorm |
| Thu, Jun 11 | 86° | 70° | 0.71 in (33%) | Violent rain showers |
| Fri, Jun 12 | 76° | 65° | 0.03 in (40%) | Light drizzle |
| Sat, Jun 13 | 79° | 58° | — | Overcast |
For those in the Greater Dayton area keen on keeping their gardens vibrant, a significant event is on the horizon. This coming Monday, the OSU BYGL (Buckeye Yard & Garden Line) is hosting a "Greater Dayton Diagnostic Walkabout" [1]. This isn't just a casual stroll; these walkabouts are invaluable opportunities for gardeners to get direct, expert insights into the health of their plants. Think of it as a mobile plant clinic, bringing university extension expertise right to the community. If you've ever puzzled over a wilting leaf, a suspicious spot, or an uninvited pest, this is your chance to bring samples or describe symptoms to horticultural professionals who can help diagnose the issue.
These events are particularly fantastic for community learning, offering practical advice tailored to local conditions. The Ohio State University Extension, through initiatives like BYGL, provides research-backed information, making these walkabouts a trusted source for tackling common plant ailments. Identifying problems early is crucial, as it can prevent the spread of diseases or pests, save struggling plants, and ultimately lead to a more successful and beautiful garden. It's a proactive approach to plant health, empowering garden enthusiasts with the tools and knowledge to keep our green spaces thriving.
It sounds like quite the undertaking in the garden this week, especially in Florida's intense heat! Our friend from Homegrown Florida was busy salvaging a large peach harvest, as the scorching temperatures were causing the fruit to drop prematurely and attract pests [1]. This immediate, full harvest was crucial to prevent significant losses, as the softer peaches only last a few days on the counter.
For long-term preservation, she's switched to freeze-drying this year, aiming for shelf-stable peaches that can last up to 30 years [1]. This is a strategic shift from canning, which she found didn't lead to as much consumption in the past. Beyond peaches, she also managed to gather a handful of plums (despite a previous nutrition issue now being treated), along with onions, carrots, and potatoes, all destined for a hearty pot roast dinner.
The video paints a vivid picture of the daily hustle, from tackling pest infestations like "leafoot bugs" and scarab beetles, to diligently watering pots twice a week in the summer, and even releasing a familiar snake from a rat trap! It’s a real testament to the effort involved in growing your own food, especially when battling challenging conditions like Florida's intense heat and garden pests. She even promotes her new book, *The Florida Fruit Garden*, offering advice for other local growers [1].
Yesterday's rainfall: None
Today's growing degree-days (base 50°F): 30.1
| Day | High | Low | Precip | Conditions |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Tue, Jun 9 | 86° | 74° | — | Overcast |
| Wed, Jun 10 | 85° | 71° | 0.70 in (28%) | Thunderstorm |
| Thu, Jun 11 | 87° | 73° | 0.35 in (49%) | Thunderstorm |
| Fri, Jun 12 | 77° | 64° | 0.27 in (64%) | Moderate rain showers |
Good news for commercial fruit growers in the Midwest! The comprehensive 2026-2027 Midwest Fruit Pest Management Guide is now available online [1]. This essential resource provides conventional pest management recommendations specifically for commercial tree fruit, small fruit, and grape producers throughout the Midwest and its neighboring states, offering crucial guidance for the upcoming seasons.
Additionally, the latest issue of the "Growing Urban Ag" Newsletter (May 2026) has just been released [2]. This edition is full of engaging updates from the Ohio State Urban Food Innovations Lab, showcasing their ongoing projects and developments in urban agriculture. It's a valuable read for anyone following the advancements and community efforts in urban farming.
If you're dreaming of a bigger pepper harvest this year, a recent deep dive into expert growing methods offers some valuable insights, especially for those in cooler climates like Canada [1]. The key, it seems, is identifying and addressing the bottlenecks that limit your plants' production.
First up is temperature. During the critical flowering stage, peppers need a delicate balance: not too hot during the day, which can cause flowers and pollen to drop, and not too cold at night, which has the same effect. It's worth looking up the specific temperature range your pepper variety prefers for optimal fruiting and flowering [1].
Next, don't skimp on sunlight. Peppers are sun worshippers, needing direct, full sun for as much of the day as possible. If your garden has changing sun patterns, consider growing in containers so you can move them to chase the light. Just be mindful of sun stress, which can occur from intense light combined with high heat [1].
Root space is surprisingly nuanced. While too small a root space can stunt growth, unlimited space in the ground can cause the plant to prioritize root development over fruit production. For those in colder climates with shorter growing seasons, a 5-gallon container is often ideal, striking a balance that encourages fruiting [1].
Many gardeners misunderstand watering. Peppers don't actually dislike water; they need *consistent* access to it. Erratic watering, either too much or too little, can lead to dropped flowers, stunted growth, and even issues like blossom end rot. Self-watering containers are highly recommended for maintaining this consistency. When potting, plant peppers flush with the soil surface, unlike tomatoes, and a general fertilizer is usually sufficient [1].
Finally, and perhaps most importantly, harvest your peppers as soon as they're ready [1]. Leaving ripe peppers on the plant acts as a "resource sink," diverting energy that could be used for producing new flowers and fruits. Regular harvesting encourages a more continuous and abundant yield throughout the season.
Yesterday's rainfall: None
Today's growing degree-days (base 50°F): 22.2
| Day | High | Low | Precip | Conditions |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Mon, Jun 8 | 89° | 56° | — | Overcast |
| Tue, Jun 9 | 78° | 71° | 1.88 in (79%) | Heavy rain |
| Wed, Jun 10 | 85° | 70° | 0.85 in (78%) | Thunderstorm |
| Thu, Jun 11 | 85° | 73° | 0.18 in (50%) | Thunderstorm |
For anyone who’s ever dreamed of growing their own food but felt limited by a lack of yard space, or perhaps by renting, an inspiring video from The Millennial Gardener offers some truly clever solutions. Titled "Weirdly Brilliant Ways to Grow Vegetables WITHOUT a Garden or Yard!", this comprehensive guide tackles the common hurdles of small spaces, urban living, and even budget or physical constraints that often deter aspiring gardeners [1].
The presenter, who humorously admits to often having "dozens of extra plants that I can't fit in my garden" each spring, shares seven innovative techniques for cultivating vegetables regardless of your living situation. These aren't just minor tweaks; they're genuinely creative approaches designed to maximize output in minimal areas. Whether you're in an apartment, have a tiny balcony, or just a small patch of concrete, the video promises ways to grow an abundance of food, proving that a traditional backyard garden isn't a prerequisite for a thriving harvest [1].
Yesterday's rainfall: 0.16 in
Today's growing degree-days (base 50°F): 19.5
| Day | High | Low | Precip | Conditions |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Sun, Jun 7 | 77° | 62° | — | Mainly clear |
| Mon, Jun 8 | 86° | 57° | — | Overcast |
| Tue, Jun 9 | 80° | 67° | 0.08 in (67%) | Moderate drizzle |
| Wed, Jun 10 | 83° | 69° | 0.16 in (38%) | Thunderstorm |
If you've ever hauled a heavy bag of compost from the garden center, feeling virtuous about feeding your soil, here's something worth knowing before your next trip: you're likely carrying a lot more water and dirt than actual compost. A close look at the labels on bagged compost and composted manure reveals that most products contain only 20–30% organic matter — the stuff you're actually paying for. The rest? Roughly 45% is water, and about 25% is plain old soil that got mixed in during the commercial composting process (or, less charitably, may have been added on purpose to bulk up the weight) [1].
That means when you spread a bag across your garden beds, you're delivering far less organic benefit than you might imagine — closer to one-third of the bag's contents is doing meaningful work.
Not all organic matter is created equal, either. Watch out for wood chips and shaved wood products increasingly used as filler in commercial blends. They're cheap, nutrient-poor, and can actually tie up nitrogen in your soil as they break down [1]. Look for products with high organic matter content, low moisture, and no visible wood material — and skip the premium "special ingredient" blends promising magic from kelp or crab shell. They're just compost with a marketing budget.
The best option, as ever, is making your own — or simply practicing the "cut-and-drop" method, letting plant material decompose right where it falls. Failing that, a bag of fresh manure from a local horse farm will often outperform anything on a nursery shelf [1].
Yesterday's rainfall: None
Today's growing degree-days (base 50°F): 27.7
| Day | High | Low | Precip | Conditions |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Sat, Jun 6 | 86° | 69° | 0.54 in (31%) | Moderate rain showers |
| Sun, Jun 7 | 79° | 63° | — | Overcast |
| Mon, Jun 8 | 81° | 55° | — | Overcast |
| Tue, Jun 9 | 70° | 67° | 0.25 in (77%) | Slight rain showers |
If you've ever stared at a blank patch of yard and thought *"someday I'll turn that into a proper garden"* — this is your sign that someday can be now. GrowVeg's Ben walks through a genuinely practical, step-by-step framework for getting a vegetable garden off the ground, and the advice holds whether you're breaking new soil or reclaiming a neglected corner that's gone a bit wild [1].
The first insight is a good one: before you touch a single seed or shovel a single clod of dirt, think about your paths. Ben calls them the "backbone of any garden," and it's hard to argue — paths are what turn a chaotic patch into something you can actually work in without trampling your own crops. He recommends drawing inspiration from the classic kitchen garden layout, two intersecting paths forming a cross that naturally divides the space into four manageable planting beds. A few tent pegs and some brightly colored twine are all you need to get that structure mapped out on the ground.
From there, the guide builds logically outward — addressing soil preparation, bed layout, and the practical sequencing that keeps beginners from getting overwhelmed. The underlying message is reassuring: the core steps are the same regardless of your garden's size or your experience level. GrowVeg also offers a free trial of their Garden Planner tool and a downloadable excerpt from Ben's book for anyone who wants to dig deeper (pun very much intended).
If you have even a modest strip of outdoor space and a appetite for homegrown vegetables, this is a worthy 18 minutes of your afternoon.
If you're a keen gardener, you know that even your most beloved plant varieties can have an off-year, especially when Mother Nature decides to throw a curveball. That's exactly what happened in a Florida garden during a recent "battle of the best tomato plants," which saw unexpected failures and surprising disappointments among usually reliable performers [1].
Our friend from Homegrown Florida faced one of her toughest tomato seasons yet, contending with late frosts quickly followed by "crazy heat" and a significant winter drought. These extreme conditions really tested her ten favorite varieties, plus a few underdogs [1]. The biggest casualty? The Silvery Fir Tree tomato, a dwarf determinant. Despite a good fall showing, it was a complete failure in spring, producing only two tomatoes before fizzling out. Blamed on its placement, clumped planting, and a clear intolerance for the sudden heat, it's been entirely removed from the gardener's rotation [1].
Even more surprising was the drastic fall of Kawola, a Hawaiian-bred, typically heat and disease-tolerant variety that had been her top performer for two consecutive years. This spring, it barely grew, with "very, very little foliage" and few flowers, dropping to ninth place. Similarly, the usually robust Better Boy hybrid struggled, producing only a couple of tomatoes, a far cry from its usual abundant yield [1]. The challenges underscore how critical climate adaptability is; some varieties like Belly Nalive, which tasted great but withered in the spring heat, will now be grown exclusively in the cooler fall season [1]. It just goes to show that even the most proven varieties can falter when faced with unusual weather, reminding us to constantly assess and adapt to our unique garden conditions.
Source Footnote List: [1] Homegrown Florida — https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VBerHVlMHSI
Ever wondered if all those clever gardening tricks you hear about are actually backed by science? Ashley from Gardening In Canada, who holds a Bachelor of Science in Soil Science, recently tackled the "Garden Myths That Refuse to Die" [1]. She brings a refreshing scientific lens to common gardening beliefs, particularly those surrounding companion planting as a pest and disease deterrent. Ashley's goal is to equip fellow gardeners with the knowledge to discern what's genuinely effective from what's merely folklore.
She explains that many myths often originate from real scientific studies, where a specific plant might indeed repel a pest like flea beetles under controlled lab conditions. However, the efficacy often doesn't translate directly to the complex, uncontrolled environment of a typical garden. As a Zone 3 Canadian gardener with professional experience in agriculture, Ashley offers practical advice grounded in evidence, encouraging viewers to be critical thinkers. It's a valuable reminder that while traditional wisdom can be charming, understanding the underlying science can make our gardens truly thrive. Ashley also touched on the broader challenge for long-form content creators like herself, noting the rise of AI-generated content and the trend towards short, "dopamine-hit" videos, which makes sharing nuanced, science-based insights even more vital.
Yesterday's rainfall: None
Today's growing degree-days (base 50°F): 23.1
| Day | High | Low | Precip | Conditions |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Fri, Jun 5 | 86° | 60° | — | Overcast |
| Sat, Jun 6 | 84° | 71° | 0.02 in (89%) | Light drizzle |
| Sun, Jun 7 | 74° | 62° | 0.01 in (38%) | Overcast |
| Mon, Jun 8 | 78° | 59° | 0.23 in (11%) | Slight rain showers |
If you're looking to maximize your harvest this season, particularly with peppers, some new insights could help your plants produce non-stop until the first frost [1]. The key, according to one experienced gardener, is an aggressive and consistent feeding schedule. For explosive growth, amend your planting hole with a slow-release organic fertilizer blend, such as an all-purpose mix combined with bone meal, crab and lobster shell meal, and azomite. If your plants are already in the ground, simply spread two tablespoons of a balanced organic fertilizer around the base of each plant and water it in. This process is crucial and should be repeated every two weeks throughout the entire growing season, as peppers are surprisingly heavy feeders for their size [1].
Another vital step for a bountiful pepper harvest is proper support. While individual stakes work, for larger beds, the "Florida weave" method is highly effective. Plant your peppers relatively close, about one square foot per plant, and then use five-foot stakes placed every four or five plants. Synthetic nylon twine is recommended over natural materials, which can expand and contract. Weave the twine alternately behind and in front of each plant, securing it around the stakes, and add new strings every 6 to 12 inches as your plants grow throughout the season. And here's a myth to debunk: resist the urge to prune young pepper plants to encourage bushiness. This common advice can actually set your plants back several weeks, delaying flowering and fruiting [1].
Meanwhile, if you're aiming for "giant" tomato plants, consistent care is also the name of the game. One gardener attributes their success with robust tomato seedlings to several factors, including fertilizing every time they water, careful temperature management in the greenhouse, and using a high-porosity soil mix. The type of container also made a difference; inexpensive "root trainer" pots, which offer ample soil volume and encourage downward root growth with their corrugated design, contributed to healthier, more robust root systems that didn't overheat [2]. This constant access to water, nutrients, and oxygen, combined with strong roots, appears to be the secret to their booming tomato crop [2].
If you've been looking for a way to grow "unimaginable amounts of produce" at home, Hoocho might just have cracked the code for fruiting plants. They've unveiled the "Hooch Bucket 2.0," a gravity-fed, passive wicking hydroponic system that they claim is the most productive they've ever used [1].
This ingenious system leverages readily available 90mm pipes, combined with 3D-printable buckets and parts, making it surprisingly cost-effective for home growers. Hoocho estimates a full system, including pipe, filament for 3D-printed buckets, net cups, float covers, and even 100 liters of hydroponic-grade coco media, comes in at around $120 – "really bloody cheap," as they put it [1]. The design is quite clever, featuring wider 600mm spacing between buckets to accommodate larger fruiting plants like capsicums and chilies, and a slight slope for easy drainage. They even spray the 3D-printed buckets internally with clear paint to prevent wicking and ensure durability [1].
For nutrient management, Hoocho employs a staggered approach, starting seedlings at a lower EC (around 1), then transferring them to buckets with coco rehydrated at 1.5-2 EC, and finally supplying nutrient solution from a 1,000 L reservoir at 2-2.5 EC, adjusted to a pH of around 5.5 [1]. The results, after just three months and two weeks, were "incredible," with plants thriving and producing an impressive yield, proving the Hooch Bucket 2.0 to be a standout performer [1].
***
### Source Footnotes: [1] Hoocho — https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WojTjN5VDC0
Yesterday's rainfall: None
Today's growing degree-days (base 50°F): 16.8
| Day | High | Low | Precip | Conditions |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Thu, Jun 4 | 85° | 48° | — | Overcast |
| Fri, Jun 5 | 86° | 61° | — | Overcast |
| Sat, Jun 6 | 79° | 64° | 0.45 in (86%) | Slight rain showers |
| Sun, Jun 7 | 75° | 62° | 0.00 in (46%) | Light drizzle |
For those of us eager to get a head start on the growing season, a veteran gardener with 50 years of experience has shared a surprising, yet effective, new method for cool-season crops like lettuce, spinach, and peas [1]. Traditionally, we're told to plant these as soon as the soil can be worked, but new insights suggest this might be counterintuitive for germination. Research from the 1950s by J.F. Harrington indicates that almost all vegetable seeds, including cool-season varieties, germinate fastest and at the highest rate around 86°F, not in cold spring soil. While these plants thrive in cool growing conditions, their seeds prefer warmth to get going. The solution? Germinate them warmly indoors using a method like the "baggy method," then transplant the sprouted seedlings into the cool outdoor soil. This technique can save you 2 to 3 weeks of growth, leading to larger, healthier plants and potentially higher yields before the summer heat arrives [1].
Meanwhile, another expert with a soil science degree has been tackling the age-old question of optimal pot size for tomatoes [2]. He conducted an experiment comparing the performance of tomatoes grown in three different container sizes, aiming to see which size truly delivered the best results in terms of plant health and production. While the full results aren't detailed, he hints that the answer wasn't as straightforward as one might expect, and also emphasized that his initial seed-starting method played a significant role in the exceptional health of all his plants [2].
For those dedicated to maintaining lush, healthy lawns and turf, the Ohio State University's Buckeye Yard & Garden Line (BYGL) recently published their 'Turfgrass Team Times' for May 29, 2026 [1]. Issued by a team of horticultural experts, the 'Turfgrass Team Times' is a timely and invaluable resource for both professional landscapers and enthusiastic home gardeners in the region. These regular dispatches typically delve into the most pressing turf management issues of the moment, offering research-backed advice on everything from identifying and combating common lawn diseases and pests to optimal fertilization schedules and watering techniques as temperatures rise. Given its late May publication date (though it just surfaced on June 4th), this edition likely provides critical guidance for navigating the challenges and opportunities of the early summer growing season, ensuring your turfgrass remains vibrant and resilient. It's the kind of practical, expert advice that can truly make a difference in your lawn care strategy, so it's definitely worth checking out the full report if you're looking for up-to-the-minute insights.
Yesterday's rainfall: None
Today's growing degree-days (base 50°F): 12.8
| Day | High | Low | Precip | Conditions |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Wed, Jun 3 | 77° | 48° | — | Clear sky |
| Thu, Jun 4 | 85° | 53° | — | Overcast |
| Fri, Jun 5 | 81° | 60° | — | Overcast |
| Sat, Jun 6 | 79° | 64° | 0.69 in (75%) | Moderate rain showers |
Yesterday's rainfall: None
Today's growing degree-days (base 50°F): 10.5
| Day | High | Low | Precip | Conditions |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Tue, Jun 2 | 71° | 50° | — | Fog |
| Wed, Jun 3 | 76° | 50° | — | Overcast |
| Thu, Jun 4 | 77° | 55° | — | Overcast |
| Fri, Jun 5 | 80° | 60° | 0.02 in (8%) | Light drizzle |
If you thought the window for seed starting had closed for the season, think again! June, it turns out, is actually one of the best months to sow a surprising variety of crops for a continuous summer harvest, especially for those gardening in cooler zones like 3, 4, or 5 [1]. The secret lies in the warm soil temperatures of early summer, which allow seeds to germinate "lickety split" without the risk of rotting that cold spring soils presented.
You can still get a quick turnaround on crops like beets, arugula, Swiss chard, lettuce, and radishes. Beyond those speedy greens, June is prime time for some of the garden's most productive plants. Consider planting winter and summer squash now, along with carrots, pole and bush beans (don't underestimate their yield!), and peas. For larger seeds, a great hack is to pre-soak or pre-germinate them, then broadcast them across the soil surface before top-dressing with compost or peat [1]. This method works wonders in compacted soils.
Don't forget about flowers! Sunflowers, marigolds, morning glories (if not invasive in your area), and nasturtiums (also benefit from pre-soaking) can still be started. For those planning a fall harvest, June is also ideal for starting cold-climate crops like kohlrabi, broccolini, broccoli, cauliflower, Brussels sprouts, kale, Swiss chard, and spinach – just be sure they are short-season varieties or you're prepared to cover them later in the year [1].
As you plant in warmer conditions, a few tips will help your seedlings thrive. Protect young plants from predatory birds with cages or even fake snakes. For carrots, try the "2x4 trick" to maintain soil moisture, or use mulches like shredded straw, which also prevents seeds from drying out or washing away in heavy rains. And of course, consistent watering is crucial for newly sown seeds and young transplants [1].
### Source Footnotes [1] "15 Crops You Should Plant Right Now" — https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4RvlsNi2OQk
Yesterday's rainfall: None
Today's growing degree-days (base 50°F): 9.2
| Day | High | Low | Precip | Conditions |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Mon, Jun 1 | 73° | 45° | — | Overcast |
| Tue, Jun 2 | 71° | 47° | — | Overcast |
| Wed, Jun 3 | 72° | 50° | — | Overcast |
| Thu, Jun 4 | 77° | 53° | — | Overcast |
Even though June brings intense heat to Florida, it's actually still a surprisingly productive month for gardeners, provided you pick the right crops and varieties that thrive in the summer sun [1]. Don't let the high temperatures deter you from continuing to grow edibles!
This month, the focus is on a variety of heat-loving plants. For greens, consider tropical spinaches like longevity, Okinawa, sissoo, red Malabar spinach, Ethiopian kale, Egyptian spinach, amaranth, and chaya, along with Swiss chard [1]. When it comes to fruiting crops, while most tomatoes struggle, the Everglades variety can still be grown. Several squashes are excellent choices, including Tromboncino, Seminole pumpkins, Tahitian melon squash, and South Anna butternut squash. Chayote is also a good option, especially for South Florida, and you can even grow luffa for homemade sponges. Asian and Armenian cucumber varieties are also being tested for summer success [1].
Root crops are another strong contender, with sweet potatoes being a particular favorite. Taro, cassava, yuca, jicama, ginger, and turmeric also do well. If you're looking for legumes, various cowpeas like the Puerto Rican black bean, whippoorwill, and Texas cream are ideal. For "green bean" cravings, try winged beans or long beans, and for dry beans, limas are a good pick. Peanuts also fall into this heat-loving legume family. And finally, for sweet treats, pineapples, papayas, passion fruits, and bananas can all be planted this time of year [1].
It might seem early, but planning for major agricultural events is already underway! The Ohio State University (OSU) VegNet News shared an exciting opportunity for those involved with or interested in small-scale farming: a pre-survey for the 2027 Small Farm Conference [1]. OSU is proactively reaching out to the community to gather recommendations and fresh ideas, aiming to make the future conference as relevant and impactful as possible.
This isn't just about picking dates and venues; it's a chance for small farmers and agricultural advocates to directly influence the content, topics, and even the format of a key event designed to support their endeavors. By engaging with this early planning stage, participants can help ensure the conference addresses the most pressing challenges, showcases innovative solutions, and provides valuable networking opportunities for the small farm community. If you have insights on what you'd like to see, learn, or discuss at such an event, taking a few moments to fill out their brief survey could make a real difference in shaping the 2027 conference experience.
For our friends in the farming community, there was a really insightful piece this week from OSU VegNet News on optimizing energy usage on the farm [1]. It's a topic that's only becoming more critical, especially with an eye on both operational costs and environmental impact. The article dives into practical strategies that farmers can adopt to make their operations more energy-efficient and sustainable.
It covers everything from identifying the biggest energy hogs on a typical farm – think irrigation systems, heating for greenhouses, and machinery – to implementing smarter technologies. They highlight the benefits of switching to things like LED lighting, using variable frequency drives for motors, and just generally optimizing daily operations. The underlying message is clear: even small changes can add up to significant savings on energy bills, which directly impacts the bottom line, especially in today's economic climate. Plus, every kilowatt-hour saved is a win for the environment. It's a great reminder that sustainability isn't just about grand gestures; it's also about smart, day-to-day management that benefits everyone.
If you've spent any time recently searching for gardening help on YouTube, you've probably encountered them: faceless channels promising that one magic spoonful will double your harvest overnight, complete with suspiciously perfect AI-generated thumbnails and a robotic voiceover reading a script that sounds just like the last fifteen videos you accidentally clicked on. The Millennial Gardener has had enough, and honestly, his frustration is well-earned.
In a nearly 24-minute video, he walks through exactly what's happening: AI-scripted, AI-narrated, AI-illustrated content farms are churning out hundreds of gardening videos daily, recycling the same clickbait premises with zero accountability for accuracy. The real damage isn't just aesthetic — these videos are setting up new gardeners for genuine failure by promising instant, magical results that biology simply cannot deliver [1].
His counter-advice is refreshingly practical. Fertilizing your vegetable garden isn't optional, and compost alone is usually an expensive, inconsistent substitute for a straightforward bag of balanced fertilizer. He breaks down the four main fertilizer types — granular organics, water-soluble organics, slow-release synthetics, and water-soluble synthetics — noting that even the fastest-acting options take days or weeks to show results in plant tissue, not overnight. His personal routine: granular organics plus water-soluble fish fertilizer and a synthetic booster every two weeks, delivered through drip irrigation.
He also demystifies pollination, pointing out that most vegetables gardeners stress over (tomatoes, peppers, beans) are wind-pollinated and respond brilliantly to simply shaking the plant — or, if you're feeling theatrical, a toothbrush or a leaf blower on its lowest setting.
The throughline is simple: consistency, routine, and patience beat any magic formula. Anyone selling you otherwise is either misinformed or lying to you.
It seems even some of our favorite, toughest landscape plants aren't immune to a bit of botanical mystery! The experts at OSU BYGL recently brought attention to an intriguing development on fragrant sumac, a popular and usually low-maintenance shrub prized for its beautiful fall color and resilience [1]. Gardeners might start noticing unusual growths, or 'galls,' appearing on these otherwise hardy plants.
Galls are essentially abnormal plant growths, often triggered by insects or mites laying eggs or feeding, causing the plant tissue to form a protective (or sometimes just odd-looking) structure. While they can look alarming, galls are typically more of a cosmetic concern than a serious threat to a plant's overall health.
What makes this particular observation on fragrant sumac so intriguing, according to OSU BYGL, is its 'Poison Ivy Connection' [1]. While fragrant sumac (Rhus aromatica) is a non-allergenic cousin to poison ivy, both belong to the same plant family, Anacardiaceae. The article delves into what might link these specific galls to its more infamous relative, offering a fascinating look into complex plant-pest interactions. If you've spotted galls on your fragrant sumac, or are simply curious about this unexpected botanical family drama, their insights are well worth a read.
Yesterday's rainfall: None
Today's growing degree-days (base 50°F): 10.0
| Day | High | Low | Precip | Conditions |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Sun, May 31 | 71° | 49° | — | Fog |
| Mon, Jun 1 | 73° | 48° | — | Partly cloudy |
| Tue, Jun 2 | 68° | 48° | — | Overcast |
| Wed, Jun 3 | 70° | 51° | — | Overcast |
Forget tossing fertilizer willy-nilly; it turns out where you place it is a nuanced science with a big impact on your garden's success! According to a deep dive into soil science, strategic fertilizer placement can significantly influence root growth, plant resilience, and nutrient uptake [1].
The core idea is the "root magnet effect"—roots actively grow towards nutrient sources. This means placing fertilizer too close can lead to "root burn," while placing it too far away might mean nutrients are never reached. The goal is to encourage a strong, expansive root system, which in turn supports a healthier plant above ground.
Here are a few key strategies: * Below the Root Ball: Placing fertilizer at the bottom of the planting hole, covered by a layer of soil, encourages roots to grow downwards. This is particularly beneficial in hot, dry climates, helping plants access deeper moisture. * Beside the Root Ball: Around 2-5 inches away from the plant, this "root invitation" method coaxes roots to spread outwards, creating a wider, more stable base. * Mid-Row Banding: This method, often used in agriculture and highly recommended for gardens, involves placing a higher concentration of fertilizer between two plants, slightly below root level. It forces roots to spread both outwards and downwards, resulting in a remarkably extensive root system that improves drought resistance and overall plant vigor.
Crucially, your soil type dictates the best approach. Clay soils, with their high nutrient-holding capacity and slow nutrient movement, might benefit more from side placement, avoiding deep placement if waterlogging is a concern. Sandy soils, on the other hand, where nutrients move and leach quickly, thrive with mid-row banding and even below-ground placement to drive roots deeper for moisture. Loam soils offer flexibility, allowing you to adapt placement based on specific needs. For perennials like trees and bushes, aim to place fertilizer spikes far from the base, between plants, to encourage wide-reaching roots that anchor the plant against environmental stresses.
Understanding these placement techniques can truly transform how your garden thrives, proving that a little science goes a long way!
Yesterday's rainfall: None
Today's growing degree-days (base 50°F): 7.7
| Day | High | Low | Precip | Conditions |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Sat, May 30 | 63° | 52° | — | Clear sky |
| Sun, May 31 | 75° | 45° | — | Overcast |
| Mon, Jun 1 | 67° | 50° | — | Overcast |
| Tue, Jun 2 | 66° | 50° | — | Overcast |
Many of us have faced the frustrating sight of our beautiful plants, especially fresh edibles, smothered in sticky aphids. It's a common garden pest that can stunt growth and spread diseases like wildfire, but chemical sprays are often a no-go for crops you plan to eat. Thankfully, there are smarter, wildlife-safe approaches to take! A recent GrowVeg video dives into seven clever, gardener-tested strategies to tackle these tiny invaders without harmful chemicals [1]. The key takeaways emphasize the importance of early detection and making friends with natural allies in your garden. By spotting aphids early and encouraging beneficial insects, you can keep your plants healthy and your harvest organic.
It turns out that growing your own peaches in Florida is not just a dream, but a tangible goal, provided you have the right approach! Homegrown Florida is on a mission to harvest fruits and vegetables from their backyard garden every single month throughout 2026, and peaches are a star player in their successful year-round strategy [1].
For those dreaming of homegrown peaches, the secret lies in selecting the right variety and understanding Florida's unique climate. The channel highlights their beloved "Peachy," a Tropic Beauty peach tree, which has been thriving for 7-8 years. This specific cultivar, engineered by the University of Florida, is crucial because it only requires between 150 and 250 chill hours—cumulative hours below 45°F during winter—a stark contrast to the 600+ hours needed by most common peach varieties found in northern states [1]. Areas from Sarasota up through Tampa, Orlando, and North Florida can often meet these lower chill hour requirements, and resources like the Agroclimate website can help you gauge your local conditions [1].
What's fascinating is that while Peachy produced exceptionally well even during a year with unusually high chill hours (450!), the timing of flowering remains critical. Tropic Beauty peaches typically flower in February. While their flowers are more resilient than some other fruit trees, a late cold front in March can still pose a risk, potentially damaging or killing the blooms if temperatures dip below freezing [1]. So, while it demands a bit of "finesse," growing peaches like Tropic Beauty is presented as incredibly rewarding, opening the door for Florida gardeners to enjoy fresh, homegrown fruit from late May onward, alongside other seasonal harvests like strawberries, mulberries, and figs [1].
Yesterday's rainfall: None
Today's growing degree-days (base 50°F): 13.6
| Day | High | Low | Precip | Conditions |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Fri, May 29 | 77° | 50° | — | Fog |
| Sat, May 30 | 63° | 51° | — | Clear sky |
| Sun, May 31 | 68° | 45° | — | Overcast |
| Mon, Jun 1 | 68° | 49° | — | Overcast |
As summer truly kicks into gear, you might think the main planting rush is over, but our friend, The Millennial Gardener, reminds us that June is actually a critical month for ensuring your garden thrives long past peak summer and into the colder months [1]. Stopping your planting efforts now, he warns, can lead to an early garden demise. Instead, June is the time to focus on crops that require a longer growing season, promising bountiful harvests later in the year.
First on the 'must-plant' list are winter squashes, encompassing beloved varieties like butternut, spaghetti, acorn, and even pumpkins and gourds [1]. Unlike their quick-growing summer counterparts, winter squashes need a substantial 80 to 120 days (or more!) to mature, making a June planting essential for a late summer or early fall harvest. These beauties develop thick, hard shells, perfect for long-term storage in a cool, dry place. While late planting can invite more pests, The Millennial Gardener suggests opting for resistant varieties such as butternut, Zucchino Rampicante (also known as Trombanchino squash), or the resilient Seminole pumpkin.
Next up are sweet potatoes, which really shine when planted in early June [1]. These warm-weather lovers need a good four to five months to fully develop their delicious, large roots, thriving in the heat and humidity that June brings. It's a fun fact that sweet potatoes aren't actually true potatoes (they're the roots of a morning glory vine!), and you'll typically plant them using 'slips' – cuttings from the vine – rather than the root itself. Getting these in the ground now ensures they have ample time to bulk up before the season cools.
By continuing to plant strategically in June, you're not just growing food; you're cultivating a harvest that keeps on giving, extending the joy of your garden well into fall and beyond.
If you've always buried your tomato plants deep in the soil, you might want to rethink that strategy, especially if you live in a cooler climate. While deep planting is often advised to encourage more roots, it turns out this common wisdom might actually be detrimental, according to insights from *Gardening In Canada* [1].
The original research that popularized deep planting was conducted in Florida, where the focus was on achieving ideal soil temperatures—between 70 and 80°F—for the tomato root ball to thrive and maximize yields. In Florida's warm climate, planting deeper ensured the roots were in this optimal temperature zone. However, in regions like Canada, planting tomatoes to the first true leaves can place the root ball in significantly colder soil, sometimes as low as 40°F, severely stunting the plant's growth.
Instead, the recommendation is to plant tomato root balls much shallower, ideally flush with the soil surface. This allows the roots to access warmer soil temperatures crucial for robust growth. Using mulch can also help maintain this warmth and regulate soil temperature. While deep planting does encourage adventitious roots from the stem, this benefit was actually a spin-off of the original study; the primary factor for success was always the soil temperature. If you really want those extra roots, you can achieve a similar effect by laying the plant on its side, but it's not a make-or-break element for success. The key takeaway is to test your soil temperatures throughout the season and adjust your planting depth based on your specific conditions—considering factors like raised beds, sun exposure, and container material—to ensure your tomatoes are warm enough to flourish [1].
Source List: [1] "STOP burying your tomatoes 🍅" — Gardening In Canada — https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2yUDjTTa7tU
If you've been diligently adding compost to your fresh potting mix, a soil scientist and seasoned container gardener suggests you might be missing the mark on how container soils actually work [1]. The core issue, it turns out, is that potting soils are largely "microbial deserts" compared to garden soil. They're designed for excellent drainage, which means less water film for microbes, and they contain limited, undiverse organic material. Without a robust microbial community, there's low enzyme activity and nutrient cycling, meaning plants can't access the nutrients locked within organic matter like compost, bone meal, or feather meal, as these need microbial breakdown to become bioavailable [1].
Instead of focusing on fresh compost for new soil, the key is time and reuse. Older, continuously reused potting soils develop a more broken-down structure and accumulate microbial diversity over the years, creating what's dubbed a "microbial ramp" that can effectively turn organic matter into a slow-release fertilizer. For immediate plant needs, especially early in the season to combat transplant shock or erratic weather, a "dual fuel system" is recommended: using synthetic liquid fertilizers to provide readily available nutrients while the organic components in the reused soil gradually become active. Plants don't differentiate between nutrient sources, making synthetic fertilizers a practical tool when microbial activity isn't yet established [1].
Yesterday's rainfall: None
Today's growing degree-days (base 50°F): 11.4
| Day | High | Low | Precip | Conditions |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Thu, May 28 | 69° | 54° | — | Mainly clear |
| Fri, May 29 | 75° | 46° | — | Mainly clear |
| Sat, May 30 | 62° | 47° | — | Overcast |
| Sun, May 31 | 68° | 43° | — | Partly cloudy |
Yesterday's rainfall: None
Today's growing degree-days (base 50°F): 18.5
| Day | High | Low | Precip | Conditions |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Wed, May 27 | 78° | 59° | — | Fog |
| Thu, May 28 | 67° | 54° | — | Overcast |
| Fri, May 29 | 69° | 47° | — | Overcast |
| Sat, May 30 | 59° | 48° | — | Overcast |
For those of us constantly battling Mother Nature in our gardens, two recent dispatches offer some fantastic regional wisdom! If you’ve ever wondered why your Florida zucchini isn't "drowning" you in squash like the internet promises, you're not alone. Our friends at Homegrown Florida have cracked the code for growing zucchini successfully in the Sunshine State’s challenging heat and humidity [1].
They recommend specific varieties built for the climate. Topping their list for sheer prolific growth and pest resistance (though watch out for pickle worms!) is Tromboncino Squash, also known as Zucchini Rampicante. This unique, long-necked squash is largely immune to common scourges like squash vine borers and squash bugs. While its appearance might make it a hard sell to neighbors, its ability to produce abundant, storable fruit, and even mature into a delicious winter squash, makes it a Florida winner. For a more traditional-looking, yet robust, option, they also highlight Dunja Zucchini, a hybrid praised for its excellent heat tolerance and disease resistance, proving itself a reliable producer even if not the absolute most prolific [1].
Meanwhile, up north, Gardening In Canada offers a reassuring message for anyone feeling "behind" in their garden this year, whether due to a late spring, bad weather, or personal challenges like chronic illness [2]. It’s never too late to catch up! Their "recovery garden method" focuses on smart strategies: * Buying starts: Skip the fragile seedling stage and get a head start with established plants. * Choosing fast-growing crops: Think radishes, lettuce, beets, carrots, or bok choy for quick turnarounds. * Strategic container use: Provides mobility to escape harsh conditions and reduces the need for bending, a boon for those with physical limitations. * Speeding up the process: Use the "bucket method" to shade newly transplanted seedlings from intense sun, or warm your soil with low tunnels to accelerate seed germination [2].
It’s clear that successful gardening, no matter where you are, is all about adapting your approach to your specific environment and circumstances.
Yesterday's rainfall: None
Today's growing degree-days (base 50°F): 15.9
| Day | High | Low | Precip | Conditions |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Tue, May 26 | 80° | 52° | — | Fog |
| Wed, May 27 | 78° | 60° | — | Overcast |
| Thu, May 28 | 63° | 51° | — | Clear sky |
| Fri, May 29 | 66° | 47° | — | Overcast |
Yesterday's rainfall: 0.08 in
Today's growing degree-days (base 50°F): 12.6
| Day | High | Low | Precip | Conditions |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Mon, May 25 | 68° | 57° | 0.00 in (16%) | Light drizzle |
| Tue, May 26 | 80° | 53° | — | Overcast |
| Wed, May 27 | 77° | 61° | 0.01 in (6%) | Light drizzle |
| Thu, May 28 | 62° | 50° | 0.01 in (6%) | Light drizzle |
If you've ever dreamt of growing your own food but felt intimidated by the sheer number of plants or past crop failures, you're certainly not alone. Many new gardeners dive in with gusto, only to find their enthusiasm wane when ambitious projects don't pan out, or they feel overwhelmed and start too late, leading to similar disappointing results. This cycle of excitement followed by failure can be incredibly disheartening, crushing the initial confidence needed to keep going [1].
However, The Millennial Gardener offers a fantastic approach to turn that around: focus on mastering just a few "insanely easy" plants first. By choosing highly productive, rewarding vegetables that require less effort, beginners can build essential gardening skills and confidence with a much higher success rate. This strategy not only makes you "look like a pro" but, more importantly, fosters a positive, encouraging experience that sets you up for long-term gardening enjoyment and growth [1]. So, instead of biting off more than you can chew, perhaps picking those first few foolproof plants is the real secret to cultivating a green thumb.
If you've heard some buzz recently about chemicals in strawberries, a popular Canadian gardener and soil scientist, Ashley, with 15 years in agriculture, dives into a viral claim regarding Driscoll strawberries [1]. A recent paper, widely shared online, suggested these berries were "laden with pesticides" linked to childhood leukemia. Ashley clarifies that while the headlines were alarming, the original study sampled only two containers of Driscoll strawberries – a sample size far too small to represent an entire farm or company, according to scientific standards [1].
She explains that strawberries are, in fact, an incredibly challenging crop to grow due to their susceptibility to fungal issues, thin skin, high perishability, and various pests. Consumer demand for blemish-free, perfectly shaped, year-round strawberries drives growers to use intensive methods, including pesticides, to ensure they survive the journey from farm to grocery store [1].
While many types of chemicals are detected on strawberries, Ashley notes that government regulations set "allowable limits" for residue on produce. The chemicals found in the Driscoll samples were typically present in "negligible amounts," often parts per billion, and well below these legal limits—some even three times lower [1]. The larger concern, she suggests, might be farmworker exposure to active ingredients or potential "overspray" affecting nearby communities, rather than the minuscule residues on the final product. Ultimately, while individual concerns about cumulative chemical exposure ("death by a thousand paper cuts") are valid, large corporations like Driscoll are generally operating within existing regulatory boundaries to meet global food demands [1].
Yesterday's rainfall: 0.70 in
Today's growing degree-days (base 50°F): 16.5
| Day | High | Low | Precip | Conditions |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Sun, May 24 | 75° | 59° | 0.12 in (51%) | Moderate rain |
| Mon, May 25 | 69° | 57° | 0.02 in (10%) | Light drizzle |
| Tue, May 26 | 77° | 53° | — | Overcast |
| Wed, May 27 | 79° | 61° | — | Overcast |
If you're wondering what makes a garden truly thrive, a soil scientist from Gardening In Canada has a strong message: it's all about what's happening *below* the surface [1]. She stresses that proper soil conditioning is non-negotiable, particularly when preparing beds for transplanting, which requires different considerations than seed sowing.
While the "no-dig" method has its proponents, she cautions against it, especially for raised beds or heavy clay soils, particularly if you're growing annuals like tomatoes and peppers that aren't perennial to your climate. The key, she advises, is to understand your sub-surface conditions. To diagnose potential issues, dig a spade's depth hole and look for "glazed" or "shiny" sides, or "modeling" (red or gray streaks), all tell-tale signs of heavy, water-retaining clay [1].
If you identify problematic clay, the solution for transplanting involves digging a hole three times wider and deeper than the plant's root ball. Excavate the soil, break up any clumps *outside* the hole, and then incorporate a significant amount—around 50% by volume—of a fine, uniform organic material into the excavated soil. Then, refill the hole partially with this amended mix. Before you even think about placing your plant, a crucial step often overlooked is checking the soil temperature with a thermometer. Ensuring the root ball goes into an adequately warm environment can make all the difference for a successful transplant [1].
It's a hot topic for gardeners, especially those in warmer climates: how to water your plants effectively. A recent video from Homegrown Florida stresses the importance of "deep watering," explaining that a quick splash just won't cut it in intense heat [1]. Instead of daily, shallow watering, the recommendation is to water less often but with a significantly larger amount of water each time.
This technique is a game-changer because it encourages roots to grow deeper and stronger, helping plants become more resilient and less susceptible to diseases. When you only water the surface, roots stay near the top, leading to weaker plants that constantly search for moisture. Deep watering ensures the water sinks far down, compelling roots to follow. The video even suggests that by adopting deep watering, you might only need to water twice a week, even in challenging conditions like Florida, compared to daily or twice-daily shallow watering [1].
Beyond root strength, shallow watering with a hose or sprinkler can also contribute to fungal diseases by keeping leaves wet for too long and splashing spores from the soil. To check if you're deep watering effectively, simply use the "finger poke test" or a moisture meter, aiming to keep soil moisture above the 25-30% mark for most plants [1]. It's a simple change that can lead to dramatically healthier plants.
Yesterday's rainfall: None
Today's growing degree-days (base 50°F): 13.9
| Day | High | Low | Precip | Conditions |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Sat, May 23 | 71° | 57° | 0.76 in (96%) | Slight rain showers |
| Sun, May 24 | 76° | 58° | — | Fog |
| Mon, May 25 | 70° | 54° | — | Fog |
| Tue, May 26 | 79° | 57° | — | Overcast |
As we step into early summer, it's a prime time for gardeners to "get ahead" by sowing certain seeds that thrive in the warmth, promising quick growth and harvests in as little as six weeks. GrowVeg highlights that many people stop sowing too early, missing out on a crucial "short window" to maximize their garden's potential [1].
One standout crop recommended for June sowing is sprouting broccoli, particularly the "winter type." While it requires a bit of patience, taking 8 to 10 months from sowing to harvest, the wait is more than worth it. The resulting "beautiful purple, green, all white spears" are described as "absolute horticultural caviar" and "real gold," arriving when there's little else to pick, effectively filling that often-dreaded "hungry gap" [1].
To get started, sow sprouting broccoli seeds into plug trays, two seeds per cell, about a quarter-inch deep. This method offers excellent protection from pests like slugs and pigeons, and allows you to start plants indoors while their final garden spot might still be occupied. After 4 to 8 weeks in trays, transplant them into their permanent positions, spacing them generously at two feet (60 cm) apart in all directions, as they grow into "quite substantial plants" [1].
Speaking of staying ahead, our friend from Homegrown Florida gave us a very real look at the constant cycle of garden maintenance this week, as she finally buckled down to tackle a list of overdue projects [1]. With the Florida heat rapidly escalating, she made an iced coffee (a rare treat for motivation!) and spent the day cleaning, reorganizing, fixing things, and harvesting, all in an effort to get ahead before summer fully settles in [1]. It was less about a perfect, curated garden day and more about the practical reality of gardening: the ongoing cycle of tasks, big and small, that often get put off but eventually need doing to keep things thriving, especially as the seasons shift and temperatures rise [1].
Ever heard that old gardening chestnut about tomatoes and nitrogen – that too much leads to leafy growth and no fruit, so you should cut back on nitrogen as the plant matures? Well, it turns out that common wisdom might be leading us astray! [2] Research from hydroponic growers and soil studies at institutions like the University of Florida and Ohio State University actually shows the opposite: for maximum fruit production, tomato plants need *increasing* amounts of nitrogen as they mature and begin fruiting. [2]
This is because nitrogen isn't just for leaves; it's a vital nutrient for *every* part of the plant – roots, flowers, and especially the developing fruit. As your tomato plant grows larger and starts producing heavily, its overall demand for nitrogen naturally increases. The experts recommend starting with lower nitrogen for young plants and gradually increasing it right up until harvest. The only time to consider cutting back is if you've heavily over-fertilized early on, or in colder climates when you prune off late-season flowers that won't mature before frost. So, next time you're tending your tomatoes, remember to feed them consistently as they grow for a bountiful harvest! [2]
And speaking of keeping plants happy, if you've ever struggled with parched hanging baskets, you're not alone. [1] Many of us love the look of coir-lined baskets, but they can dry out at lightning speed. The good news is, there are some simple, science-backed tricks to keep them lush all summer long without daily watering. [1]
First, ditch the idea of well-draining soil for these pots; you want a mix that *retains* moisture. Line your coir basket with a plastic bag (like a grocery or garbage bag), making sure not to poke holes in the bottom – this creates a crucial water reservoir. [1] Mix in some 'soil moist' granular polymers to your potting soil; these act like tiny sponges, soaking up water and releasing it as needed. Also, resist the urge to cram too many plants in, as overcrowding drastically increases water demand. When watering, use the "flood method": fill the basket right to the brim, letting the water slowly soak down until it drains from the bottom. This ensures deep saturation and prevents the soil from becoming hydrophobic. These few adjustments can make a world of difference for your hanging beauties! [1]
Yesterday's rainfall: None
Today's growing degree-days (base 50°F): 7.0
| Day | High | Low | Precip | Conditions |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Fri, May 22 | 67° | 47° | 0.12 in (55%) | Moderate drizzle |
| Sat, May 23 | 72° | 57° | 1.50 in (100%) | Heavy rain |
| Sun, May 24 | 71° | 50° | — | Overcast |
| Mon, May 25 | 72° | 59° | — | Overcast |
For anyone looking to cultivate a greener thumb when it comes to fruit, Ohio State University Extension has just released a fantastic resource: the full recordings of their "All About Fruit! Webinar Series" [1]. This comprehensive series was thoughtfully designed to empower a wide range of growers, from enthusiastic home gardeners hoping for a sweeter harvest to small-scale and commercial producers aiming for greater yields and healthier plants.
The availability of these recordings means that the valuable insights and professional skills shared during the live webinars are now accessible on demand. Whether you're struggling with common fruit tree diseases, looking to optimize your pruning techniques, or simply want to understand the best varieties for your climate, this series promises to provide actionable advice. It's a prime example of how educational initiatives are helping to elevate the practice of fruit growing, ensuring that anyone with an interest can learn the professional-grade techniques needed for more robust and productive fruit-bearing plants.
One dedicated gardener recently shared a significant journey of resilience, revealing how he completely rebuilt his outdoor garden from the ground up to combat relentless climate challenges [1]. For years, "The Millennial Gardener" struggled with the intense heat, humidity, and daily torrential thunderstorms on the southeastern coast of North Carolina, which consistently devastated his summer vegetable crops by August 1st. Two years ago, reaching a breaking point, he declared himself "done gardening outdoors" in its previous form, kicking off an extensive overhaul.
His ambitious project began with addressing his original, shallow raised beds. These proved insufficient for moisture control and allowed root knot nematodes to infect plants once roots hit the native soil. Over two years, he meticulously ripped up and double-stacked his beds, creating much deeper, 18-inch structures, a change he notes "helped tremendously" with plant performance. Beyond deeper beds, his revamp incorporated more effective weed suppression, automated drip irrigation, and his "newest creation": a substantial protective roof with a built-in trellis. This innovative structure now shields a significant portion of his garden from the elements, showcasing a determined effort to cultivate a thriving space despite challenging environmental conditions [1].
It turns out many of us might be picking the wrong plants for our gardens, not because we lack a green thumb, but because we’re fighting our soil type rather than working with it [1]. Ashley from "Gardening In Canada," armed with a bachelor's in soil science, makes a compelling case for selecting plant varieties specifically designed to thrive in your garden's unique earth [1].
For those with clay soil, which often struggles with low oxygen and slow root penetration despite high water retention, the key is choosing wisely. Consider root crops with strong, blunt taproots like Denver carrots or beetroots, which are designed to push into denser clay soils. Water-loving plants such as willow, elderberry, and rhubarb also flourish, as do species adapted to compacted conditions like hostas and coneflowers. Surprisingly, vining plants like squash, watermelon, and pumpkins are good choices too, thanks to their opportunistic roots that spread across
Yesterday's rainfall: 0.04 in
Today's growing degree-days (base 50°F): 2.6
| Day | High | Low | Precip | Conditions |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Thu, May 21 | 60° | 45° | — | Overcast |
| Fri, May 22 | 66° | 47° | — | Overcast |
| Sat, May 23 | 61° | 52° | 1.45 in (96%) | Moderate rain showers |
| Sun, May 24 | 67° | 55° | 0.04 in (47%) | Moderate drizzle |
Yesterday's rainfall: 0.05 in
Today's growing degree-days (base 50°F): 9.8
| Day | High | Low | Precip | Conditions |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Wed, May 20 | 69° | 51° | 0.06 in (37%) | Moderate drizzle |
| Thu, May 21 | 57° | 43° | — | Overcast |
| Fri, May 22 | 60° | 44° | 0.59 in (86%) | Moderate rain |
| Sat, May 23 | 64° | 54° | 0.07 in (88%) | Moderate drizzle |
If you've ever dreamed of picking fruit from your own backyard every single month of the year, one Florida gardener is proving it's not just a fantasy — it's a carefully planned reality. The creator behind Homegrown Florida is setting herself the ambitious goal of a monthly harvest throughout all of 2026, and her seasonal lineup is genuinely impressive: strawberries in the winter months, loquats and mulberries come spring, and now, as May arrives, blueberries take center stage [1].
Blueberries in Florida might sound counterintuitive — these are berries that love cold — but that's exactly what makes the approach so interesting. The key tension is "chill hours": blueberries need a stretch of temperatures below 45°F to trigger fruiting, but Florida's winters can swing unpredictably between a light freeze and a damaging hard frost. Researchers at the University of Florida are actively breeding new varieties designed to handle that balance, along with producing larger berries (bigger fruit means faster hand-picking, which makes home and commercial growing alike more practical) [1].
For home growers, the single biggest lesson here is soil. Blueberries demand acidic conditions — ideally a pH between 4.5 and 5.5 — and most Florida soils run frustratingly alkaline thanks to the underlying limestone. The hard-won advice: skip planting in the ground entirely and go straight to containers, where you can control the soil mix from the start. Learning that lesson the slow way, watching in-ground plants struggle for a year before giving up, is an experience worth sparing yourself [1].
Whether you're in Florida or a similarly warm climate, the broader takeaway is that year-round fruit growing rewards smart variety selection and a willingness to work *with* your local quirks rather than against them.
Many new gardeners often blame poor harvests on bad fertilizer or bad luck, but a soil scientist with 15 years in agriculture suggests the real issues often begin much earlier, quietly stunting plant growth and reducing yields all season long [1]. The key, it turns out, often lies in protecting and nurturing your plant's roots from the very beginning.
One major culprit is transplant stress. Instead of sinking plants like tomatoes and peppers deep into the soil during transplant, aim to keep the original root ball level with the surface. This prevents the plant from diverting energy to grow new stem roots rather than developing its existing root system [1]. For an even stronger foundation, using larger containers or specialized root trainers can dramatically increase root mass, which directly correlates to a healthier, more productive plant above ground. For delicate-rooted plants like pumpkins, squash, or zinnias, starting them directly in compostable pots (like peat pots) can significantly reduce transplant shock, allowing roots to expand without disturbance [1].
Once plants are moved outdoors, environmental factors become crucial. Ensure the soil temperature is appropriate for your chosen plants; heat-loving varieties like tomatoes and peppers, for instance, will struggle if planted into soil that's too cold [1]. When hardening off seedlings, the focus should be on gradually increasing *light intensity*, not just the duration of outdoor exposure. Start plants in a shaded, sheltered spot, slowly exposing them to more direct light over several days, while protecting them from harsh winds [1].
Finally, proper watering and feeding make a difference. Always use sun-warmed or lukewarm water for seedlings, especially after transplanting, as cold water can shock them. While water is essential post-transplant, hold off on liquid fertilizers for about a week to let the plant recover. After that, incorporate a root booster with your watering regimen, and avoid placing fertilizer directly in the root hole during transplant [1]. These science-backed strategies can be a game-changer for successful gardening.
### Sources [1] "Science Says These Garden Mistakes Reduce Growth" — Gardening In Canada
For anyone curious about the full journey from a beehive to a bottle of something truly unique, Hoocho has released an extensive guide that covers fermenting honey into mead and then distilling it into what they call "HoneyShine" [1]. It's a fascinating look at how to take raw ingredients all the way to a finished product.
The adventure begins right in the beehive, with Hoocho demonstrating honey collection from a Flow Hive – a non-traditional Langstroth design that allows harvesting without disturbing the honeycomb. They even unveil a clever bulk collection method using a custom 3D-printed lid, designed to keep the bees away while the honey flows directly into a bucket. While not everyone has their own bees, Hoocho assures viewers that buying local, unadulterated honey works just as well for those wanting to try their hand at mead making.
From there, the collected honey is fermented into two distinct types of mead, serving as the base for the final distillation process into "HoneyShine." This video offers a deep dive for anyone interested in homesteading, fermentation, or simply exploring the intricate craft of turning nature's bounty into a spirited beverage. It’s a true “scratch to shine” experience, packed with useful information for enthusiasts and beginners alike [1].
Yesterday's rainfall: 0.01 in
Today's growing degree-days (base 50°F): 27.3
| Day | High | Low | Precip | Conditions |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Tue, May 19 | 87° | 68° | — | Overcast |
| Wed, May 20 | 72° | 45° | 0.02 in (35%) | Light drizzle |
| Thu, May 21 | 58° | 46° | — | Overcast |
| Fri, May 22 | 63° | 44° | 0.56 in (78%) | Moderate rain |
Yesterday's rainfall: None
Today's growing degree-days (base 50°F): 28.2
| Day | High | Low | Precip | Conditions |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Mon, May 18 | 89° | 68° | — | Overcast |
| Tue, May 19 | 82° | 68° | 0.30 in (74%) | Moderate rain showers |
| Wed, May 20 | 70° | 47° | 0.18 in (74%) | Light drizzle |
| Thu, May 21 | 59° | 44° | — | Overcast |
If you've ever wondered whether your tap water is secretly sabotaging your houseplants, the short answer is: probably not — but it's worth knowing the numbers. A detailed breakdown from Garden Fundamentals walks through the key water quality factors every plant lover should understand, and the takeaway is reassuringly practical [1].
Chlorine turns out to be a non-issue for most gardeners. Municipal water is kept well below the two parts per million threshold that can harm plants, and no, you don't need to let it sit overnight to "off-gas" — it's already at safe levels [1].
Fluoride is trickier. Added to many water supplies at around one ppm, it's generally tolerable for most plants, but low-level damage (slower growth, fewer blooms) can occur invisibly. Since symptoms mimic other problems like drought stress, it's easy to miss — so it's worth checking your municipality's published water report [1].
pH should ideally fall between 5.5 and 6.5 for most houseplants. Once it creeps above 7.5, you risk iron and phosphorus deficiencies over time, particularly in peat-based soils [1].
Water hardness — essentially the calcium and magnesium content — has a sweet spot around 100 ppm. If yours runs high, blending tap water 50/50 with distilled or rainwater brings it into range. Crucially, using only pure water is *not* a good substitute; plants need those minerals [1].
Lead is rarely a plant concern at municipal levels, though older homes with aging pipes warrant a tap-side test, especially if you're growing edible container vegetables [1].
The bottom line: get your city's water report, run the numbers, and stop worrying — your tap water is almost certainly fine.
For those of us who love a homegrown onion but are tired of the seasonal feast-or-famine cycle, The Millennial Gardener is shaking things up. In his video, "The ONLY Way You'll Grow Onions From Now: On INSANE Harvests!", he challenges the conventional wisdom that onions are a seasonal crop, confessing he spent years making what he now considers a "big mistake" by following "expert" advice for single, large summer harvests [1]. Instead, he advocates for a revolutionary year-round approach, promising "insane harvests that never stop." This method means no more waiting a whole year for your next batch of homegrown onions. He provides a detailed onion growing schedule, along with essential tips and tricks for successful planting, harvesting, curing, and storage, helping gardeners enjoy a continuous supply. If you're looking to transform your onion patch into a non-stop production line, this fresh perspective might just be the game-changer you need.
Yesterday's rainfall: 0.13 in
Today's growing degree-days (base 50°F): 24.2
| Day | High | Low | Precip | Conditions |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Sun, May 17 | 85° | 63° | — | Fog |
| Mon, May 18 | 88° | 65° | — | Overcast |
| Tue, May 19 | 82° | 68° | 0.02 in (79%) | Light drizzle |
| Wed, May 20 | 68° | 44° | 0.17 in (79%) | Slight rain showers |
Today in the garden, we're diving deep into some horticultural wisdom! Ashley from Gardening In Canada, a soil and plant science expert, has done us all a huge favor by scientifically debunking popular internet tomato hacks so we don't have to [1]. She reminds us that gardening advice needs to be specific to our local conditions, but her analysis of common myths is widely applicable. For instance, she thoroughly disproves the idea that burying organic materials like fish heads, eggshells, or banana peels in the planting hole will immediately feed your tomatoes. As she explains, tomatoes can't "eat" these directly; it takes time for decomposition and nutrient release, which isn't always beneficial in the short term, and can even attract pests or cause issues. Instead, Ashley champions science-backed methods like consistent fertilizing and managing temperature differentials for optimal growth [1].
Meanwhile, for our friends in the Sunshine State, Homegrown Florida shares a "controversial" but tried-and-true method for planting fruit trees in challenging Florida conditions, specifically its sugar-beach sand [2]. While many advise against adding amendments directly to the planting hole, this gardener strongly recommends incorporating compost and fruit tree fertilizer. Why? Florida's sandy soil offers little moisture retention or nutrients, so these additions create a supportive micro-environment for the young tree's first few months. The process also involves digging a hole twice as wide and deep as the root ball, filling it with water twice to ensure proper drainage, planting the tree about six inches *above* the soil line to account for settling, and compacting the soil firmly. A meticulous watering schedule – daily for a week, then every other day, then every third day, before settling into a weekly routine – ensures the tree establishes well in its sandy home [2].
Source Footnote List: [1] Gardening In Canada — https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kU-j0kpg2o4 [2] Homegrown Florida — https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Sh-XfGtMNC4
Yesterday's rainfall: None
Today's growing degree-days (base 50°F): 15.3
| Day | High | Low | Precip | Conditions |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Sat, May 16 | 79° | 52° | — | Overcast |
| Sun, May 17 | 84° | 59° | — | Overcast |
| Mon, May 18 | 82° | 62° | 0.00 in (5%) | Light drizzle |
| Tue, May 19 | 82° | 66° | 0.10 in (63%) | Slight rain showers |
It turns out that a soil test, while a valuable tool, isn't the complete picture for understanding your garden's health. Ashley from Gardening In Canada, a soil scientist, explains that even if your test indicates ample nutrients, your plants can still starve [1]. The key takeaway is that a soil test is merely a "snapshot in time," revealing the *total* amount of nutrients present, not necessarily what's *bioavailable* to your plants [1].
Think of it this way: plants only absorb nutrients that are dissolved in water within their root zone. Several factors influence this availability, including root health, microbial activity, moisture levels, soil temperature, and even the plant's age [1]. Essentially, your soil isn't a pantry where plants can just pick what they need. There are three primary mechanisms that can work against nutrient uptake: fixation, lock-up, and immobilization. For instance, soils with high pH, common in some prairie regions, can lock up essential nutrients like calcium and magnesium, making them inaccessible despite their abundance [1].
Crucially, microbes are far more than just "decorations" in your soil; they are essential mediators. They perform a vital process called mineralization, converting organic matter and even conventional fertilizers into forms plants can actually utilize [1]. This microbial activity is sensitive to conditions like moisture, temperature, and the amount of organic material available. This explains why gardeners often see stressed, stunted plants in the spring, especially after transplanting, when microbial activity is typically low, regardless of the soil's inherent nutrient content [1].
For those considering professional soil testing, Ashley advises using the same lab consistently. Soil tests are calibrated estimates, and using different labs can yield varying results, making it challenging to track improvements or adjust your practices effectively [1]. Rather than treating results as commandments, view your soil test as a diagnostic tool – a map – to help you understand if your gardening methods are making positive changes. Focusing on overall soil health, including encouraging robust microbial life and maintaining optimal pH, is often more impactful than simply chasing nutrient numbers [1].
For those looking to boost their nutritional intake directly from the garden, it turns out you don't need expensive protein powders or a diet solely reliant on animal products. According to GrowVeg, a variety of muscle-boosting plants can be easily cultivated at home, challenging the common assumption that protein primarily comes from meat or dairy [1]. Beyond providing essential protein for healthy muscles and bones, many of these crops also enrich your soil by fixing nitrogen from the air.
Beans are highlighted as particularly easy and rewarding protein powerhouses. Broad beans, also known as fava beans, are "devastatingly easy to grow" and offer 8 grams of protein per 100 grams. Simply push their large seeds into the soil and provide some string support as they grow tall. For an even higher protein punch, soybeans (edamame) provide an impressive 36 grams of protein per 100 grams. While they might seem like an unusual choice for temperate climates, fast-maturing varieties can yield a good crop when sown in late spring into warm soil, planted two seeds per hole, about 1-2 inches deep and 6 inches apart. Climbing beans, despite having a slightly lower protein content of 1.5-2 grams per 100 grams (including the pod), are praised as "vertical protein factories" for their sheer abundance and continuous harvest all summer long, requiring support like a teepee or trellis. Other legumes like chickpeas and lentils are also briefly mentioned as excellent alternatives to consider [1].
For those with green thumbs in the Sunshine State, you know that Florida gardening comes with its own unique set of challenges. Homegrown Florida recently delved into some of the "drama queen" vegetables that give gardeners the most grief in the region, highlighting how the state's distinct climate and environmental conditions can truly test one's patience [1]. Topping the list of notorious plants is the cucumber, often proving tricky to cultivate successfully [1]. Thankfully, this seasoned Florida gardener doesn't just present the problems; they also offer a wealth of practical tips, specific variety recommendations, and personal insights. Their advice aims to make growing these difficult veggies more rewarding, transforming what can feel like a losing battle into a thriving, productive garden [1].
Yesterday's rainfall: None
Today's growing degree-days (base 50°F): 5.5
| Day | High | Low | Precip | Conditions |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Fri, May 15 | 72° | 39° | — | Overcast |
| Sat, May 16 | 81° | 54° | 0.10 in (69%) | Slight rain |
| Sun, May 17 | 75° | 60° | 0.15 in (43%) | Dense drizzle |
| Mon, May 18 | 82° | 63° | — | Overcast |
If you've been diligently pruning your tomato plants by removing those little "suckers," prepare for a bit of a gardening plot twist! One expert is strongly urging home gardeners to *stop* this common practice, arguing that it's actually hurting your plants and significantly reducing your harvest [1].
The Millennial Gardener contends that much of the advice floating around about removing tomato suckers – those shoots that grow in the 'armpit' of a leaf and stem – is misguided. Far from being a helpful technique, taking them off can stress your plants, make them more susceptible to disease, and most critically, drastically cut down on the amount of fruit they produce.
This advice is particularly crucial for certain types of tomatoes. If you're growing determinate, semi-determinate, or dwarf varieties, the message is clear: *never* remove the suckers. For determinate tomatoes, which grow to a predetermined bush-like height, their flowers and future fruit literally grow *from* these suckers. Chop them off, and you're chopping off your yield. Semi-determinate types, which start vining but then bush out heavily, also produce their fruit-bearing flowers on these side shoots. And dwarf tomatoes? They're essentially little bushes, relying entirely on those suckers for their prolific blooms. The argument is that healthy, bushy plants with their suckers intact will yield an "extreme" amount of flowers and fruit, with the dense foliage even providing natural protection from pests and sun [1].
While indeterminate tomatoes are the only type where sucker removal is even a topic of discussion, the overwhelming recommendation for most home gardeners is to let those suckers grow, especially if you want a bountiful harvest. It seems that sometimes, less pruning is truly more!
Sources: [1] The Millennial Gardener — https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LR_rZQHNnio
Yesterday's rainfall: 0.06 in
Today's growing degree-days (base 50°F): 3.0
| Day | High | Low | Precip | Conditions |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Thu, May 14 | 61° | 46° | 0.00 in (7%) | Light drizzle |
| Fri, May 15 | 70° | 41° | — | Overcast |
| Sat, May 16 | 74° | 54° | 0.51 in (71%) | Moderate rain showers |
| Sun, May 17 | 78° | 60° | 0.20 in (58%) | Dense drizzle |
There's a reason victory gardens made a comeback during World War II — and if the seed shortages at your local garden center are any indication, history may be quietly repeating itself. Ashley, a soil scientist and lifelong gardener from Canada, makes a compelling case that reaching for a trowel right now is less about a hobby and more about a quiet act of self-determination [1].
Her argument is straightforward: when global supply chains buckle, fertilizer prices spike, and geopolitical tensions rattle the food system, the people who fare best are the ones who've been growing at least *some* of their own food. She points to a surge in seed and soil purchasing that closely mirrors what happened around 2020 — stores struggling to keep seed packets on shelves, a fresh wave of first-time gardeners, and a general sense that the ground beneath the global food system feels less stable than it did a few years ago.
What's especially refreshing about her take is the antidote to overwhelm she offers: you don't need acres of land to matter. Growing your own tomatoes for the year is a meaningful step. Starting small builds momentum, and momentum builds resilience — both in the garden and, she argues, in your mental health. The "all or nothing" thinking that leads people to give up before they've even started is itself worth addressing, which is why she draws a surprisingly natural parallel between tending a garden and tending your mind.
Whether you're gardening out of anxiety or ambition, the message lands the same way: a little soil under your fingernails beats helplessness every time.
Yesterday's rainfall: None
Today's growing degree-days (base 50°F): 4.5
| Day | High | Low | Precip | Conditions |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Wed, May 13 | 61° | 48° | 0.06 in (83%) | Moderate drizzle |
| Thu, May 14 | 60° | 46° | 0.05 in (11%) | Light drizzle |
| Fri, May 15 | 61° | 41° | — | Overcast |
| Sat, May 16 | 72° | 54° | 0.24 in (58%) | Slight rain showers |
Yesterday's rainfall: None
Today's growing degree-days (base 50°F): 4.1
| Day | High | Low | Precip | Conditions |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Tue, May 12 | 68° | 40° | — | Fog |
| Wed, May 13 | 63° | 48° | 0.10 in (57%) | Dense drizzle |
| Thu, May 14 | 54° | 43° | 0.10 in (46%) | Light drizzle |
| Fri, May 15 | 61° | 40° | — | Overcast |
It turns out that your garden's ultimate success might be decided much earlier than you think—specifically, in the first 30 days after planting [1]. Ashley from Gardening In Canada, who holds a Bachelor's in soil science, explains that many gardeners mistakenly believe problems emerge later in the season, but the foundation for a thriving harvest is often laid down in May and June, or whenever your early growing season occurs [1]. She calls this the "30-day root lock window," emphasizing the critical role of strong, healthy roots established early on [1].
The biggest factor, especially for those in colder climates, is soil temperature. Root enzymes, crucial for nutrient uptake and microbial activity, slow down significantly in cold soil (below 10°C or 50°F), particularly affecting phosphorus availability [1]. This can stall a plant's growth, leading to yellowing leaves with green veins, even if nutrients are present. So, investing in a soil thermometer is key to knowing when your specific plants (like brassicas needing 45-50°F vs. tomatoes/peppers preferring 60°F) are ready for planting [1].
When transplanting, Ashley advises against the classic "sink tomatoes deep" method for cold climates. This advice originated from studies in hot regions like Florida, where deeper planting provides cooler, beneficial soil temperatures. However, in colder areas, burying plants too deep can place their roots in functionally stalled cold soil. Instead, monitor your soil temperature at different depths and plant the root ball where the temperature is ideal, often closer to the surface in cooler zones [1]. She also stresses being gentle with roots during transplanting, as damaged roots require precious time to rebuild, delaying above-ground growth. Finally, opt for smaller bedding plants from the store; they generally adapt better and experience less transplant stress than larger, more mature ones [1].
Yesterday's rainfall: None
Today's growing degree-days (base 50°F): 0.0
| Day | High | Low | Precip | Conditions |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Mon, May 11 | 56° | 41° | — | Overcast |
| Tue, May 12 | 69° | 37° | — | Overcast |
| Wed, May 13 | 58° | 43° | 0.42 in (90%) | Moderate rain showers |
| Thu, May 14 | 50° | 43° | 0.21 in (26%) | Light drizzle |
Good news for all you green thumbs out there who've ever stood in the gardening aisle wondering which bag of compost truly gives you the best bang for your buck! The Millennial Gardener has done the heavy lifting for us this week, undertaking a comprehensive mission to rank nearly every compost available from major big box stores and even a local bulk supplier [1].
They meticulously tested and rated each product on a combined score of value (price) and quality (composition, particle size, feel, finish, and even a sniff test), confirming a suspicion many of us have: a higher price doesn't always guarantee superior quality. For instance, while Timberline's Soil Cow Manure & Compost offered a decent value given its low price point, earning a "fairly respectable" 6.5/10, their Timberline Mushroom Compost was a significant step up. This "dramatically different" product, praised for its much finer texture, sandy component, and overall "really nice stuff" feel, scored a solid 7/10. It shows that even within the same brand, quality can vary significantly [1]. An interesting find was also Happy Grow Organic Mushroom Compost, which, despite having a larger particle size than some, stood out as the *only* organic certified option among those tested, a key factor for those prioritizing organic practices [1]. This kind of deep dive is incredibly helpful for navigating the often-confusing world of soil amendments, ensuring we make informed choices for our gardens without breaking the bank or compromising on quality.
If you're anything like us, when your garden yields an abundance of beautiful fruit, the immediate thought is often, "How can I make this last?" This week, we've got a fantastic idea for extending the joy of your strawberry harvest well into the warmer months, courtesy of Homegrown Florida [1]. They shared a delightful recipe for a homemade strawberry lemonade concentrate that you can can and enjoy all summer long.
This concentrate is surprisingly simple to make, even if you’re new to canning. The process starts by blending three cups of crushed strawberries with two cups of fresh lemon juice – they note it took about eight very juicy lemons for that amount! After a quick simmer, you can optionally strain the mixture for a super smooth texture, though they mention it's perfectly fine to leave the strawberry bits in for a more rustic feel. The magic happens next with the addition of three cups of sugar, heating it just enough to dissolve without reaching a full boil, which is key to preventing it from turning into jam instead of concentrate.
Once the sugar is dissolved, the concentrate is poured into jars with a quarter-inch headspace, sealed, and then water bath canned for 10 minutes, making it shelf-stable. Imagine having this vibrant, homemade concentrate ready to mix with water and pour over ice whenever you crave a refreshing drink by the pool or on a hot afternoon! It’s a brilliant way to capture the essence of peak-season strawberries and enjoy a taste of summer long after the harvest is over [1].
Yesterday's rainfall: 0.05 in
Today's growing degree-days (base 50°F): 3.1
| Day | High | Low | Precip | Conditions |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Sun, May 10 | 61° | 46° | — | Overcast |
| Mon, May 11 | 56° | 41° | — | Overcast |
| Tue, May 12 | 61° | 37° | 0.01 in (70%) | Light drizzle |
| Wed, May 13 | 57° | 49° | 0.26 in (76%) | Moderate rain |
It seems like Ashley from "Gardening In Canada," a soil scientist by trade, is here to ease our cold-climate gardening worries and offer some crucial advice on what healthy garden growth *should* look like right now [1]. She reminds us that our gardens might not be failing, but simply "falling behind" without us realizing it, especially after a notoriously long and cold spring.
Her top recommendation, backed by her expertise, is to invest in a rapid-test soil temperature thermometer [1]. This isn't just a gadget; it's a vital tool. Ashley shared that while her soil was 50°F just last week, sunnier beds have now officially hit the magical 60°F mark. This is a game-changer, indicating it's finally warm enough to plant those heat-loving crops like tomatoes and corn, though she cautions against planting them in perpetually shaded areas.
Beyond temperature, Ashley's video delves into other common issues that can slow development, such as understanding seedling size expectations, the impact of pot size and root restriction, and common watering mistakes [1]. She also helps gardeners identify the difference between healthy and stressed plants, sharing insights into the soil science behind stalled growth and how those chilly nights fundamentally alter development.
On a tour of her own Zone 3 garden, she showcases a fully shaded bed dedicated entirely to purple kohlrabi – a clever choice, as leafy greens and root vegetables thrive where fruiting plants would struggle [1]. Other areas feature caged kale, patty pan squash, cucumbers, and even sunflowers, with Ashley transparently anticipating leggy growth for some due to limited sun exposure. It’s a wonderful reminder that even seasoned gardeners are constantly observing, experimenting, and adapting to their unique conditions, always with a scientific eye.
If you've ever battled with stubborn clay soil, you might have heard whispers about expanded shale as a potential solution. Our friends at *Garden Fundamentals* recently dug into this very topic, asking if this amendment truly lives up to its claims [1].
Expanded shale is essentially shale rock that's been heated to high temperatures, causing it to puff up and create air pockets, much like vermiculite or perlite, but with the added benefit of being much more stable and long-lasting. Proponents, particularly from some Texas A&M extension offices where this product is widely produced, suggest it can improve the diggability of clay and help soil retain water [1].
However, the scientific evidence to back these claims for general garden use is surprisingly thin. While a few studies indicate expanded shale can technically improve some soil measurements, like reducing bulk density, actual plant growth doesn't consistently improve. Most plants seem to fare just as well with or without it, with the exception of a few specialized plants that inherently struggle in clay. Even studies showing some benefits note inconsistent results across different years and plant types [1].
It's also worth noting that despite some manufacturers calling it a "natural product," expanded shale is quite man-made. It requires mining and then intense energy to heat, giving it a significant environmental footprint. While it does have specialized uses – many succulent and bonsai enthusiasts find it beneficial for their specific needs – for the average gardener looking to amend a large bed of clay, it's not a practical solution. It's expensive, hard to find in garden-appropriate quantities, and its widespread benefits are not strongly supported by research [1]. So, for now, it seems other methods for improving clay soil, like adding organic matter, remain the more reliable and accessible choice.
Yesterday's rainfall: 0.07 in
Today's growing degree-days (base 50°F): 10.1
| Day | High | Low | Precip | Conditions |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Sat, May 9 | 69° | 51° | 0.10 in (48%) | Slight rain |
| Sun, May 10 | 58° | 48° | — | Overcast |
| Mon, May 11 | 50° | 39° | — | Overcast |
| Tue, May 12 | 59° | 36° | 0.00 in (68%) | Light drizzle |
There's a growing buzz in the gardening world about using wool as a soil amendment, and *Garden Fundamentals* recently explored its potential and pitfalls [1]. Primarily, gardeners are interested in waste wool, coarse wool, or mill waste—not the apparel-grade stuff—using it either as raw clumps or processed pellets.
Wool offers several intriguing benefits: it's excellent at retaining moisture, expanding significantly when wet, much like peat moss. It also boasts a high nitrogen content (around 9-0-2 NPK), along with sulfur and other micronutrients, which are slowly released as the keratin-rich material decomposes over a long period—potentially 2 to 5 years. This makes it a great choice for long-term soil building and aeration, as the expanding pellets can create beneficial channels for roots.
As a mulch, raw wool can help retain soil moisture and regulate temperature, though it can be a bit tricky to handle and may blow away when dry. Pellets, being easier to incorporate, are often dug into the soil as an amendment. However, be mindful of quantity: too much (e.g., 15-20% of potting media) can actually harm plants.
While some claim wool pellets deter slugs, scientific studies, including those by the RHS, and numerous gardener trials suggest otherwise—slugs aren't bothered by the texture [1]. The biggest drawback for most home gardeners is cost. Commercially available wool pellets are significantly more expensive per pound of nitrogen than conventional fertilizers. Therefore, while wool is a perfectly good organic material for improving soil and providing nutrients, its value largely depends on how you acquire it. If you have a free or cheap source, perhaps from a local sheep farmer, it's a wonderful addition. Otherwise, more economical options often exist [1].
With rising food costs and increased concerns about global stability on many people's minds, our friends at GrowVeg offer a wonderfully pragmatic solution: home gardening [1]. In their video "10 Easy Survival Crops (Don’t Starve!)," the host, Ben, emphasizes that by cultivating simple crops, individuals can significantly reduce their food bills, ensure a steady supply of sustenance, and gain "peace of mind no matter what's going on in the news" [1].
The foundational principle for enhancing food security, Ben reminds us, is surprisingly straightforward: "Grow what you eat." He highlights the importance of focusing on crops that form the "backbone to your everyday meals," rather than just occasional treats. This strategy ensures a reliable supply of staples, leading to genuine food security and notable cost savings. For example, Ben identifies potatoes, onions, garlic, and tomatoes as his core staples, praising them as "fantastic" and "easy to grow" [1].
Beyond personal preference, several critical factors should guide your crop selection: * Climate Suitability: Choose varieties that flourish in your local conditions. * Nutritional Value & Calories: Prioritize crops offering good nutrition and high-calorie density, especially vital during economic strains. * Value for Money: Select crops that provide excellent returns on investment compared to their supermarket prices. * Year-Round Enjoyment: Consider how crops can be stored or preserved to extend their availability throughout the year [1].
This sensible approach empowers gardeners to take a proactive step towards greater self-sufficiency, fostering both practical resilience and a deeper sense of security in uncertain times.
*** Source Footnote List: [1] GrowVeg — https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t6ncj3fDzcM
For those in Florida looking to cultivate potatoes, a unique approach promises success even with the state's challenging climate. The traditional practice of "hilling" – piling soil around the plant as it grows – isn't necessary when opting for fast-growing potato varieties, which mature within 90 days, perfectly suiting Florida's limited cool-season windows [1].
Successful potato cultivation in Florida hinges on selecting the right varieties and precise timing. Fast-maturing options like Huckleberry Gold (purple exterior, yellow interior), Golden Nugget, Cow White, and certain Kennebec styles are recommended. These varieties allow for a harvest before extreme heat sets in [1].
Loose, well-draining soil is crucial for tuber development, so tilling is a must for in-ground planting, or at least a thorough loosening for raised beds. When it comes to nutrients, chicken manure fertilizer is highly praised for its balanced micronutrients and ability to adjust soil pH. Otherwise, a general-purpose fertilizer with a slightly higher nitrogen content for early leaf growth, transitioning to phosphorus and potassium for tuber development, will do [1].
Planting timing varies by region in Florida: Central Florida gardeners typically plant in January, North Florida waits until February, and South Florida can start as early as November or December, depending on the onset of cool weather. While brief cold snaps are possible, covering plants offers protection. For these fast-growing varieties, the tubers develop quickly and stay deeper in the soil, eliminating the need for hilling to prevent greening [1].
Source Footnotes: [1] Homegrown Florida — https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XnLItQtgdtg
Sometimes, the simplest acts make the biggest difference, and it’s a beautiful reminder that we have the power to create the community we long for. As seen in a recent video from Homegrown Florida, the sentiment is clear: while we often talk about needing "the village," we must first be willing to *be* that village for others [1].
The inspiration came from a practical, heartfelt place: preparing two large meals for a sister-in-law recovering from foot surgery, whose husband was juggling caring for her, their children, and elderly parents. It's a situation many can relate to, where a family is stretched thin and a helping hand is invaluable. This simple act of kindness sparked a deeper reflection on how we often step up during major life events like new babies or bereavements, but the real magic happens when we extend that same care proactively, day-to-day [1].
The message encourages us to actively seek opportunities to contribute, whether it's dropping off a meal, sharing garden produce with those facing food insecurity, or even just buying coffee for the person behind you. It's about stepping out of our comfort zones and offering joy without expecting anything in return. The beautiful takeaway? By focusing on what we can give, we often find that everything else falls into place, creating a more connected and supportive world for everyone [1].
It seems Hoocho has been busy behind the scenes, recently addressing his slight absence from YouTube in an "Updates and Things To Come" video [1]. He admitted that while he jokes about his "boss" (himself) being lenient, he does feel the pressure to deliver content, especially for his patrons. However, he's firmly prioritizing quality, stating he'd "prefer not to waste your time and deliver a video for the sake of a video" if there's nothing worthwhile to share. He also revealed that "some of these videos take a long time to make," which is a key reason for the gaps.
One significant change is his studio set, which is currently "quite bare" as he's redesigning it. He'd previously housed indoor plants under a large grow light, which, while visually appealing, was "chewing through electricity" to the tune of "about $150 a month." With the plants removed, he aims to make the space more suitable for filming informational content and showcasing new 3D prints.
Viewers can look forward to some highly anticipated projects. Hoocho is putting the finishing touches on a distillation video that's been "4 months in the making," documenting the transformation of "57 L of mead" into "honeyshine," a process that even involved beekeeping to collect the necessary honey. This elaborate video is slated to be the next upload for both his main Hoocho channel and the "All the Gear" channel. He also hinted at another 35 L of mead currently cold crashing, with its video also taking longer than expected. Hoocho is even inviting viewer input on the redesign of his main set, so fans might get a chance to help shape his future backdrop [1].
Yesterday's rainfall: None
Today's growing degree-days (base 50°F): 2.0
| Day | High | Low | Precip | Conditions |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Fri, May 8 | 61° | 43° | — | Overcast |
| Sat, May 9 | 69° | 50° | — | Overcast |
| Sun, May 10 | 58° | 48° | 0.03 in (33%) | Light drizzle |
| Mon, May 11 | 50° | 39° | 0.01 in (3%) | Light drizzle |
It seems we might be inadvertently "killing them one tree at a time" when it comes to the trees gracing our parking lots, according to a recent observation from OSU's Buckeye Yard & Garden Line [1]. This isn't just hyperbole; it points to a significant challenge for urban trees that are often placed in incredibly harsh environments. Parking lots are concrete and asphalt islands, absorbing and radiating heat, creating a furnace-like microclimate for any plant trying to survive there. Limited root space due to surrounding hardscapes, poor soil compaction from heavy machinery during installation, and insufficient access to water are common culprits. These trees, intended to provide much-needed shade, improve air quality, and soften the urban landscape, often face an uphill battle from day one. Their struggle highlights the critical need for thoughtful urban planning and ongoing care. Simply planting a tree isn't enough; ensuring it has the proper conditions—adequate soil volume, regular watering, and protection from compaction and vehicle damage—is essential for its long-term survival and ability to deliver its myriad benefits to our communities.
If you're already thinking about your garden this spring, here's a crucial tip from The Millennial Gardener: don't wait until you see signs of disease to take action [1]. He stresses that once common garden diseases, especially fungal ones that thrive in wet spring conditions, take hold, they're incredibly difficult, if not impossible, to eradicate [1].
Instead, the best offense is a good defense, starting right now. The Millennial Gardener advocates for a proactive, three-pronged strategy to keep your plants healthy and disease-free: minimizing plant stress, maximizing overall plant health, and fostering biological symbiosis [1]. This can look like providing adequate shade during hot spells to prevent heat stress and ensuring your plants are well-nourished, giving them the strength to ward off potential invaders [1]. It's all about building a resilient garden ecosystem before problems even have a chance to sprout.
If you're meticulously moving your tender seedlings outdoors for a few hours a day to "harden them off" before planting, you might be surprised to hear that you could be doing it all wrong! According to the plant science expert behind Gardening In Canada, many traditional hardening off practices are fundamentally flawed and lead to transplant shock, stunted growth, and sunscald [1].
Drawing on his Bachelor's of Science degree, he passionately argues against treating hardening off as a "punishment camp" where plants simply need to "toughen up." Instead, he advocates for a scientifically-backed approach that focuses on gradually acclimating plants to specific environmental stressors, rather than just increasing their time outdoors. The core issue, he explains, is that plants respond to physical factors like light intensity, wind, and water loss, not just the duration of their outdoor exposure. Ignoring these physiological responses by merely "ramping up time, regardless of the stress you're placing your plant in," results in "sad looking plants" [1].
He details two primary reasons why common schedules often fail: "Photoinhibition," or what he descriptively calls "The Sun Slap Syndrome," is the damage caused when indoor-grown seedlings, adapted to ideal conditions, are suddenly exposed to intense direct sunlight. Their leaves lack the necessary photosynthetic receptors and can burn or wilt, even in a short time. Secondly, "Stomatal Acclimation" refers to how plants regulate their "breathing" through microscopic pores called stomata. Sudden outdoor exposure can shock these systems, hindering the plant's ability to manage water loss and CO2 intake. The real goal, then, is to control "stress exposure, not time exposure," ensuring a smoother transition and healthier plants [1].
For Florida gardeners looking to cultivate a backyard orchard, selecting the right fruit tree variety is crucial for success, especially when navigating the offerings at big box stores [1]. A significant piece of regional advice highlights the importance of choosing trees that are truly suited for Florida's unique environment. For instance, citrus trees, while tempting, are generally best avoided from most retail outlets due to the widespread citrus greening disease, which often limits their lifespan to less than five years [1].
Instead, focus on other varieties with better prospects. Plums like 'Gulf Beauty' are a good option (though 'Gulf Rose' is often favored), but remember you'll need to purchase two different varieties for successful pollination [1]. 'Brown Turkey' figs and specific peach varieties are also strong contenders. For avocados, cold-hardy types such as 'Fantastic' come highly recommended. Mulberries, including the popular 'Pakistani' (be aware it grows quite large) and 'Red' varieties, are also excellent choices [1]. Always take the time to locate and verify the specific variety name on the plant tag, and make sure to pick a healthy-looking tree; one that's still in deep dormancy when others have already begun to leaf out might be best left behind [1].
Yesterday's rainfall: 0.13 in
Today's growing degree-days (base 50°F): 0.0
| Day | High | Low | Precip | Conditions |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Thu, May 7 | 55° | 40° | — | Overcast |
| Fri, May 8 | 56° | 43° | — | Overcast |
| Sat, May 9 | 68° | 48° | 0.51 in (46%) | Dense drizzle |
| Sun, May 10 | 53° | 42° | 0.03 in (34%) | Light drizzle |
Yesterday's rainfall: 0.24 in
Today's growing degree-days (base 50°F): 0.1
| Day | High | Low | Precip | Conditions |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Wed, May 6 | 54° | 46° | 0.15 in (100%) | Dense drizzle |
| Thu, May 7 | 52° | 41° | — | Overcast |
| Fri, May 8 | 59° | 43° | 0.20 in (63%) | Slight rain |
| Sat, May 9 | 63° | 48° | 0.50 in (63%) | Moderate rain |
If you're looking to level up your home growing game, two satisfying projects are calling your name this season — one for a single windowsill leaf, and one for a full backyard bed.
Start small: African violets are among the most rewarding plants to propagate, and according to Garden Fundamentals, the soil method beats the popular water-rooting technique hands down [1]. All you need is a healthy leaf (snipped from the bottom of the plant so it stays tidy), a small pot of well-draining mix — think perlite-heavy promix — and a simple plastic bag to trap humidity. The key insight here is restraint with water: since the leaf has no roots yet, it can't absorb much anyway, so soggy soil only invites rot. Tuck the stem and lower leaf into barely-moist soil, mist the inside of the bag, drape it loosely over the pot, and set it somewhere with low light. In two to three weeks you'll have roots; in another two to three, tiny baby plants. Even a half-leaf works for larger varieties. It's genuinely magical to watch [1].
Once you're ready to think bigger, raised beds open up a world of vegetables that simply struggle in containers or compacted ground. Homegrown Florida's top picks share a common theme: loose, well-draining, nutrient-rich soil that raised beds deliver naturally [2]. Carrots and onions need room to bulb without hitting hard resistance; tomatoes and lettuce crave even moisture to avoid cracking and bolting; peppers demand excellent drainage to dodge root rot; and garlic, potatoes, and melons all benefit from soil that warms quickly in spring. Even sprawling squash, notoriously prone to disease in humid climates, thrives when its roots aren't sitting in pooled water [2]. If you've just built your first raised bed, this list is essentially your planting blueprint.