Yesterday's rainfall: 0.02 in
Today's growing degree-days (base 50°F): 23.8
| Day | High | Low | Precip | Conditions |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Sun, Aug 9 | 85° | 63° | — | Overcast |
| Mon, Aug 10 | 84° | 70° | 0.23 in (42%) | Moderate rain |
| Tue, Aug 11 | 85° | 63° | 1.55 in (49%) | Thunderstorm w/ slight hail |
| Wed, Aug 12 | 79° | 64° | 0.04 in (51%) | Moderate drizzle |
If you've been battling an onslaught of mosquitoes in your garden this year, you're not alone — some areas are seeing dramatically increased populations, making outdoor time a real challenge [1]. Thankfully, there are several effective strategies to reclaim your space.
The first, and most obvious, step is to eliminate any standing water in your yard, as this is where mosquitoes breed. Think gutters, buckets, bird baths, or even tarps [1]. Beyond that, less obvious factors like humidity and shade play a big role. Mosquitoes thrive in damp, still air, so increasing airflow in your garden by pruning dense foliage and ensuring proper plant spacing can make a significant difference. Changing your watering schedule to the mornings instead of evenings can also help by allowing excess moisture to evaporate throughout the day, making your garden less hospitable [1].
For direct intervention, consider using BTI (Bacillus thuringiensis israelensis), often found in "mosquito dunks." This biological control specifically targets mosquito larvae in standing water and is harmless to humans, pets, and other wildlife [1]. Encouraging natural predators like dragonflies, bats, and spiders can also help reduce mosquito numbers [1]. On a more immediate front, a simple fan can be surprisingly effective at deterring mosquitoes when you're outdoors, as they struggle to fly in wind [1].
One product that comes highly recommended is Thermacell. While it might seem like a gimmick, many users swear by its effectiveness in creating a mosquito-free zone [1]. It works by releasing a synthetic mimic of a natural repellent found in flowers. However, it's crucial to note that while generally safe for humans and dogs outdoors, it is highly toxic to cats and aquatic life, so use it with caution around ponds or pet cats [1].
Finally, debunking a couple of common myths: citronella *plants* are largely ineffective as repellents unless you extract and concentrate their oils, and ultrasonic repellents have no scientific evidence to back their claims [1]. Focusing on eliminating standing water, increasing airflow, and employing targeted solutions like BTI or Thermacell will give you the best chance at enjoying your garden in peace [1].
Yesterday's rainfall: 0.18 in
Today's growing degree-days (base 50°F): 27.8
| Day | High | Low | Precip | Conditions |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Sat, Aug 8 | 87° | 69° | 0.02 in (56%) | Light drizzle |
| Sun, Aug 9 | 86° | 63° | — | Overcast |
| Mon, Aug 10 | 81° | 68° | 0.14 in (55%) | Thunderstorm |
| Tue, Aug 11 | 81° | 68° | 0.86 in (68%) | Thunderstorm |
August can feel like a marathon for many gardeners, a month that bridges the height of summer with the first whispers of autumn. It's a critical time to both safeguard your existing plants and lay the groundwork for a bountiful fall harvest.
The lingering heat brings its own set of challenges, often manifesting as stunted growth, an increase in pests and diseases, and general plant fatigue [1]. To combat these, consider heavy mulching to cool soil and retain moisture, and be mindful of your watering – cold tap water can shock heat-stressed plants [1, 3]. August also marks a peak for fungal and bacterial diseases like powdery mildew, which thrive in cooler nights and longer dew points. A preventive copper spray can be a useful tool here [1]. As daylight shortens and nights cool, some plants naturally slow their upward growth. It's a good time to redirect their energy by removing late-forming flowers or topping plants, encouraging existing fruits to mature [1].
Indeed, adapting to hotter, drier summers is becoming a staple for smart gardeners [3]. While some cool-season favorites like runner beans or brassicas may struggle in extended heat, this shift opens doors for heat-loving "subtropical" crops such as okra, sweet potatoes, corn, squash, and even peanuts or amaranth [3]. Many gardeners are finding success sowing brassicas earlier to avoid the worst heat stress, or planting them in late summer in shadier spots to grow into autumn [3].
For those looking ahead, August is also the perfect time to get a head
If you've ever found yourself peeling potatoes while wondering if you're tossing away something valuable, "Garden Fundamentals" has some clarifying insights about potato skins [1]. It turns out many common beliefs about potato skins—that they're not nutritious or even toxic—are largely myths. Far from being nutritionally bereft, potato skins are surprisingly packed with goodness. When compared gram-for-gram, the skin boasts three times more calcium and fiber than the flesh, and an impressive ten times more iron [1]. While the sheer volume of the potato's flesh means it still contributes the bulk of your overall nutrient intake, the skin significantly boosts specific nutrients, accounting for roughly two-thirds of a potato's total iron and about half its fiber content.
Regarding concerns about toxicity, the video reminds us that all fruits and vegetables naturally contain compounds they produce as a defense mechanism, which far outweigh any man-made pesticides we might consume [1]. Potatoes, belonging to the nightshade family, are no exception, but the overall message is clear: consuming potato skins as part of your meal is not only safe but also a great way to add extra nutrition to your diet. So, next time, consider leaving those skins on!
Source Footnote List: [1] The Real Truth About Eating Potato Skins — https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YqFsoPH434c
Yesterday's rainfall: 0.02 in
Today's growing degree-days (base 50°F): 25.7
| Day | High | Low | Precip | Conditions |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Fri, Aug 7 | 83° | 68° | 0.07 in (62%) | Moderate drizzle |
| Sat, Aug 8 | 87° | 70° | — | Overcast |
| Sun, Aug 9 | 83° | 63° | — | Overcast |
| Mon, Aug 10 | 75° | 68° | 0.42 in (51%) | Moderate rain showers |
As we move further into August, it's easy to think the gardening season is winding down, but for many of us, this month is actually a pivotal time that sets the stage for future success. In fact, what you do in your garden this August can profoundly impact not only your fall and winter harvests, but also how robust your garden will be come next spring! [1]
The Millennial Gardener emphasizes that there are five vital tasks no gardener should skip this month, underscoring that our August efforts are truly an investment in year-round productivity. The message is clear: don't wait to tackle these critical chores. Taking action now ensures your garden has the best possible foundation to thrive, continuing to yield deep into the cooler months and preparing for a vibrant return when spring arrives. So, if you've been wondering if it's time to slow down, the answer is a resounding "no" – August is go-time for safeguarding your garden's future! [1]
Yesterday's rainfall: None
Today's growing degree-days (base 50°F): 25.0
| Day | High | Low | Precip | Conditions |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Thu, Aug 6 | 85° | 65° | 0.04 in (19%) | Light drizzle |
| Fri, Aug 7 | 83° | 69° | 0.96 in (55%) | Heavy rain |
| Sat, Aug 8 | 85° | 67° | 0.21 in (47%) | Thunderstorm w/ slight hail |
| Sun, Aug 9 | 83° | 61° | 0.02 in (29%) | Light drizzle |
For anyone gearing up for a fall garden, especially those in warmer climates like Florida, Homegrown Florida is kicking off an exciting new series, "Grow With Me: Fall Greenstalk Garden Build Part 1" [1]. This first installment dives straight into the crucial step of starting seeds for a diverse vertical garden, perfect for a GreenStalk planter.
The creator walks us through planting a fantastic array of fall crops and flowers, including curly leaf parsley, lime basil, calendula, red creole onions, Lesya peppers, jade bush beans, patio choice tomatoes, prism kale, variegated collards, and picklebush cucumbers. You'll learn the nuances of seed starting, from pre-moistening your soil and labeling trays to specific planting depths for different seeds – some need to be gently covered, while light-germinating herbs and flowers are simply overseeded on the surface. A particularly useful tip shared is the strategy of germinating seeds outdoors in a protected spot, bypassing the need for grow lights while ensuring consistent moisture and protection from pests. This series promises to follow the garden's journey throughout the entire season, offering a real-time, practical guide for successful container gardening.
For our friends in the green industry, a valuable educational opportunity is just around the corner. The Ohio Green Industry Association (OGIA) is teaming up with Ohio State University (OSU) Extension for a "Greater Dayton Diagnostic Walkabout" this coming Monday [1]. This hands-on event offers horticulture professionals, landscapers, and arborists a fantastic chance to sharpen their diagnostic skills. Attendees will join experts from OSU Extension and OGIA as they traverse various landscapes, identifying common and unusual plant problems—from pest infestations and diseases to nutritional deficiencies and environmental stressors. It's an immersive learning experience, providing practical, real-world insights into maintaining healthy plants and landscapes directly from leading specialists in the field.
***
### Sources [1] OGIA/OSU Greater Dayton Diagnostic Walkabout This Coming Monday — https://bygl.osu.edu/node/2683
Today, we're diving into a topic that might seem a bit technical but is incredibly practical for anyone who nurtures plants: the choice between urea and nitrate fertilizers, particularly for container gardening [1]. Many home gardeners commonly use urea-based nitrogen fertilizers, while commercial operations often favor nitrate. Why the difference? It boils down to a few critical factors, most notably your water chemistry and plant growing conditions [1].
Firstly, let's clear up some common misconceptions. It's often thought that potting soil lacks the microbes to process urea, or that urea directly causes root burn. Not so! Potting mixes quickly develop robust microbial populations, efficiently converting urea. And while over-fertilizing with *any* nitrogen can cause root burn due to osmotic stress, it's not specific to urea itself [1].
The core difference lies in how these nitrogen forms interact with your soil and plants. Urea and ammoniacal nitrogen (to which urea rapidly converts) tend to acidify your potting mix over time. Nitrate, on the other hand, makes the media more alkaline. This is where your irrigation water becomes the key player. If you're using high-alkalinity tap water, an acidic urea-based fertilizer can actually help balance your substrate's pH. However, if you use soft water like reverse osmosis (RO) or rainwater, urea can dangerously drop your media pH, leading to nutrient lockout and poor plant health [1].
Commercial growers meticulously match their fertilizer choice to their water alkalinity to maintain a stable root zone pH. They understand that ammonium, a byproduct of urea conversion, can accumulate and become toxic, especially under low light, cool temperatures, or for delicate seedlings in oversized, slow-drying pots. Ammonium toxicity can manifest as root damage, yellowing leaves, and stunted growth [1].
So, which should you choose? Urea-based fertilizers are economical and work well for established plants in well-drained pots, under warm, bright conditions, *especially* if you have high-alkalinity tap water and feed at modest concentrations. If you're using soft water (RO, rainwater), growing under low indoor light, starting delicate seedlings, or keeping plants in cooler temperatures, a nitrate-based fertilizer is generally a safer bet due to its more stable pH impact and direct availability to roots [1].
### Sources [1] "Urea vs Nitrate: Which Fertilizer is Best?" — Garden Fundamentals — https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YdY5S7RUKMo
Yesterday's rainfall: None
Today's growing degree-days (base 50°F): 23.9
| Day | High | Low | Precip | Conditions |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Wed, Aug 5 | 87° | 61° | — | Fog |
| Thu, Aug 6 | 88° | 68° | — | Overcast |
| Fri, Aug 7 | 84° | 67° | 0.10 in (60%) | Thunderstorm |
| Sat, Aug 8 | 87° | 66° | 0.23 in (36%) | Thunderstorm w/ slight hail |
It sounds like a busy but incredibly rewarding day in the garden for one Florida grower, who reported a "Big Summer Mango Melon Harvest" that went beyond just dinner, promising to fill the pantry as well [1]. The star of the show appears to be a generous yield of small mango melons, all perfectly ripe and ready for picking. Beyond the melons, the harvest included Puerto Rican black beans and a fantastic showing from Roulette Habaneros, which were praised for their abundance.
While many items were ready, some are still patiently waiting. A watermelon, for instance, showed a completely dry tendril – a classic sign of ripeness – but the gardener decided to give it a couple more days before harvesting. The only fruit tree currently yielding was the jaboticaba, also known as Brazilian tree grapes, which were doing an excellent job producing their unique fruit. It’s always satisfying when a hot weather garden in Florida delivers such a diverse and plentiful bounty, making all the effort worthwhile [1].
If you're battling the pesky cabbage worm, a recent video from Gardening In Canada offers some crucial advice: the key to preventing extensive damage starts much earlier than you might think [1]. Those innocent-looking white butterflies flitting around your garden? They're actually cabbage moths, and they're scouting out prime locations to lay eggs. By the time you spot holes in your cabbage leaves or see the little green worms, they've already had a head start munching on your plants.
The best defense is often a good offense, and for cabbage worms, that means a physical barrier. Row covers or even makeshift solutions like pantyhose can effectively prevent moths from reaching your plants to lay eggs. However, as Gardening In Canada points out, even well-placed covers can be compromised by strong winds or simply overlooked, so regular checks are still essential [1].
If prevention fails and you find yourself with an infestation, there are a few options. For small numbers, good old-fashioned handpicking is effective. For a more widespread issue, Bacillus thuringiensis subspecies kurstaki, or BTK, is a fantastic organic choice. This biological control is a bacteria that, when ingested by caterpillars, upsets their stomachs. It's particularly effective against younger caterpillars, so target the undersides of leaves where they tend to feed. Just remember to reapply after heavy rain, as it can wash away the bacteria, and store it properly since it's a living product [1].
For severe infestations, especially when quick action is needed, a chemical pesticide like Dr. Doom (which contains permethrin) can offer rapid control. However, a word of caution: this product is not selective and will also kill beneficial insects, so it's best reserved for dire situations and preferably used in a covered area to minimize impact on your garden's helpful residents. If you do opt for a fast-acting chemical, consider following up with BTK later to manage any lingering smaller pests after a thorough wash of the leaves [1]. Ultimately, because cabbage moths are so mobile, consistent vigilance and timely intervention are your best tools in keeping your brassicas healthy [1].
*** [1] Gardening In Canada — https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u8Lu9go73PY
Yesterday's rainfall: None
Today's growing degree-days (base 50°F): 20.4
| Day | High | Low | Precip | Conditions |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Tue, Aug 4 | 83° | 57° | — | Fog |
| Wed, Aug 5 | 88° | 63° | — | Overcast |
| Thu, Aug 6 | 83° | 63° | 0.08 in (42%) | Thunderstorm |
| Fri, Aug 7 | 86° | 68° | 0.18 in (64%) | Thunderstorm w/ slight hail |
For those dreaming of adding a tranquil water feature to their garden without the constant hum of machinery or the need for chemical upkeep, a fascinating seminar from Garden Fundamentals offers a deep dive into building a truly natural pond [1]. The expert-led session details how to construct a thriving backyard ecosystem that doesn't rely on commercial pumps, filters, or chemicals, making it a wonderfully self-sustaining addition to any landscape.
Drawing on a background in biochemistry and chemistry, and personal experience creating a 6-acre botanical garden, the presenter shares both the philosophy and the practical steps behind successful natural pond construction. You'll learn how to design an excavated pond that naturally balances itself, covering essential concepts like the nitrogen cycle, which is key to a healthy aquatic environment. It's a comprehensive guide for anyone looking to create a beautiful, low-maintenance water feature that harmonizes with their garden's natural rhythm.
***
Source List: [1] Garden Fundamentals — https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dh-WejmZdeA
Yesterday's rainfall: 0.23 in
Today's growing degree-days (base 50°F): 20.8
| Day | High | Low | Precip | Conditions |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Mon, Aug 3 | 76° | 66° | — | Overcast |
| Tue, Aug 4 | 84° | 58° | — | Clear sky |
| Wed, Aug 5 | 83° | 64° | — | Overcast |
| Thu, Aug 6 | 85° | 69° | 0.15 in (44%) | Moderate drizzle |
If you've ever stared at a beautiful, leafy tomato plant laden with green fruit, only to watch them stubbornly refuse to turn that vibrant, delicious red, you're certainly not alone. It's a common gardening frustration, and The Millennial Gardener is here to tell us exactly "Why Your Tomatoes AREN'T Turning Red" – and more importantly, how to fix it [1].
In a comprehensive video, this gardening expert dives into the primary reasons behind sluggish ripening, offering actionable solutions to speed up the process and significantly extend your harvest window. He promises that by following his advice, you can unlock the secret to "enormous harvests of delicious tomatoes" that will last from early spring all the way through until the first frost [1]. While the specific "four primary reasons" for slow ripening are detailed within the video itself, the overarching message is one of empowerment: with the right knowledge and techniques, those green tomatoes *will* turn red, and your garden can become a continuous source of fresh, ripe fruit.
Source Footnotes: [1] The Millennial Gardener — https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LOhfmQ26ySI
Even as the days shorten and a hint of crispness enters the air, gardening expert Jeff from "Gardening In Canada" shares that late August is actually a surprisingly opportune time to start certain seeds, even in colder zones like 3, 4, and 5 [1]. The secret? Leveraging nature's benefits and a few smart techniques.
For starters, the soil is already wonderfully pre
Yesterday's rainfall: 0.23 in
Today's growing degree-days (base 50°F): 20.3
| Day | High | Low | Precip | Conditions |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Mon, Aug 3 | 77° | 64° | — | Overcast |
| Tue, Aug 4 | 83° | 57° | — | Clear sky |
| Wed, Aug 5 | 82° | 63° | 0.01 in (16%) | Light drizzle |
| Thu, Aug 6 | 85° | 69° | 0.11 in (38%) | Slight rain showers |
Have you ever had an orchid that just refused to bloom, despite your best efforts? A recent video from Garden Fundamentals shines a light on a common, yet often overlooked, repotting mistake that can doom these beautiful plants [1]. They rescued an orchid that hadn't flowered in seven years, presenting with limp, declining leaves even though its potting media felt wet. The culprit, it turns out, was severely rotten roots, hidden beneath the surface.
The core issue was the use of peat moss as a potting medium, and crucially, the failure to remove the old peat moss during a previous repotting. Peat moss, while used by some professionals in very specific ways, is generally too dense and water-retentive for orchids in a home environment, leading to root suffocation and rot. The video emphasizes that if your orchid is in peat moss, it needs immediate repotting. They also debunked the myth of adding stones to the bottom of pots for drainage, noting it's ineffective.
To rescue the plant, all the old, decomposed peat moss and dead roots were meticulously removed. Severely droopy leaves were trimmed to reduce strain. The orchid was then repotted into an appropriately sized pot – just large enough for its roots – using an airy medium like coconut chunks or good quality bark. This ensures proper air circulation and moisture balance, as orchids derive nutrients from fertilizer, not the potting mix itself. With these careful steps, the expert expects the revitalized orchid to be blooming again within four to five months [1].
Yesterday's rainfall: None
Today's growing degree-days (base 50°F): 23.9
| Day | High | Low | Precip | Conditions |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Fri, Jul 31 | 86° | 62° | — | Overcast |
| Sat, Aug 1 | 88° | 69° | — | Overcast |
| Sun, Aug 2 | 76° | 66° | 0.63 in (74%) | Thunderstorm |
| Mon, Aug 3 | 72° | 64° | 0.11 in (42%) | Moderate drizzle |
If your garden is feeling a bit tired after the summer heat, The Millennial Gardener has an urgent message for you: don't quit now! August is a critical crossroads for gardeners, where decisions made today will significantly impact your fall and winter harvests – and even your mood by combating potential seasonal depression [1]. Many of us might be tempted to throw in the trowel, but resisting that urge means you'll be enjoying fresh produce long after others have packed up for the season.
The advice emphasizes planting five specific, easy-to-grow crops that are surprisingly resilient, thriving in late summer and continuing to produce deep into fall and winter. These selections are specifically chosen for their frost and freeze tolerance, making them suitable for a wide range of climates. While the presenter is based on the southeastern coast of North Carolina (Zone 8, with a typical first frost around November 10th), the principles are broadly applicable. He even breaks down the August planting schedule based on your typical first frost date, offering tailored guidance for those expecting it in October versus November or December, ensuring virtually everyone can benefit. Gardeners in frost-free regions, of course, have the luxury of continuous planting. So, instead of letting summer frustrations lead to winter regrets, August is the time to plan for an abundant fall garden that keeps spirits high and plates full [1].
Source footnote list: [1] "5 Crops You'll HATE NOT PLANTING in August!" — The Millennial Gardener (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ieBE2sgMS6k)
For gardeners weary of battling Japanese beetles, there's a fascinating natural solution making its way across North America: the Winsome fly [1]. These iridescent green and copper pests, notorious for showing up every July to munch on roses and other plants, might finally be facing a formidable, albeit tiny, adversary.
The Winsome fly, a small, unassuming insect about the size of a housefly, is a highly specialized predator of the Japanese beetle. It doesn't eat the beetles directly, but rather lays its tiny white, oval-shaped eggs on the back of the beetle's head—a spot where the beetle's legs can't reach to scrape them off. Once the eggs hatch, the larvae burrow into the beetle, consuming it from the inside out. Interestingly, the fly primarily targets *female* Japanese beetles, which means that while it won't eliminate every single beetle, it significantly impacts the pest's reproductive cycle, leading to a long-term reduction in their numbers [1].
This natural control wasn't always so successful. Introduced from Japan in the 1920s, early attempts to establish the Winsome fly failed because its lifecycle wasn't synced with North American seasons—the flies hatched and died before the beetles emerged. However, over time, natural selection has favored flies that hatch later, coupled with subtle climate shifts that have aligned their timing. Now, the Winsome fly is spreading rapidly across Canada and the US, bringing balance back to gardens [1].
What can you do to help? While the fly will find the beetles on its own, gardeners can support them by planting small-flowered nectar sources like dill, fennel, cilantro, yarrow, and sweet alyssum, which provide food for adult flies. Crucially, resist the urge to spray pesticides, as these will kill the beneficial flies along with the beetles. Also, if you spot a Japanese beetle with tiny white eggs on its head, leave it be—that beetle is already doomed and serving a vital role in propagating its predator [1].
The joy of a summer harvest with its ever-changing basket of delights was perfectly captured by Homegrown Florida this week, featuring their eagerly anticipated first Mango Melon harvest [1]. These unique melons, which are said to taste more like a sweet honeydew than a traditional cantaloupe, promise a refreshing treat.
Beyond the star of the show, the harvest also brought in a variety of other garden treasures. Roulette Habanero peppers were plentiful, and despite a giant tomato plant finally succumbing to the elements and the season's intense bug activity, it still offered up some last fruits. Edible sweet potato leaves were gathered for dinner, along with fragrant sprigs of oregano, rosemary, mint, and chives. It’s a wonderful reminder that even when gardening in Florida presents its challenges during this time of year, there’s still so much satisfaction in bringing in a diverse and fresh haul from your own backyard.
Yesterday's rainfall: None
Today's growing degree-days (base 50°F): 20.9
| Day | High | Low | Precip | Conditions |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Thu, Jul 30 | 82° | 60° | — | Fog |
| Fri, Jul 31 | 87° | 63° | — | Overcast |
| Sat, Aug 1 | 82° | 68° | 0.06 in (47%) | Moderate drizzle |
| Sun, Aug 2 | 70° | 66° | 0.88 in (54%) | Moderate rain showers |
If you've noticed your garden plants suddenly sporting twisted, curled, or otherwise distorted new growth, your first thought might be disease, pests, or a nutrient issue. However, "Gardening In Canada" suggests a surprisingly common culprit: herbicide drift [1]. This phenomenon, often mistaken for a serious illness, occurs when tiny amounts of weed killer from nearby spraying operations — whether from neighbors, municipal crews, or agricultural fields — travel through the air and land on your plants.
Herbicide drift can happen in two ways: as microscopic spray droplets carried by the wind or, on hot days, as a vapor that gases off from sprayed areas and moves into your garden. Certain plants, like tomatoes, beans, peppers, grapes, and even sunflowers, are highly sensitive, while others such as onions, garlic, and grasses tend to be more resistant. The chemicals often interfere with plant hormones (specifically auxins), tricking the plant into overproducing cells unevenly, which results in the characteristic twisting and misshapen new growth, leaving older leaves unaffected [1]. This is distinct from glyphosate damage, which typically causes browning and stunted growth.
The good news is that plants are incredibly resilient and often recover. Herbicides are designed to break down in the environment over time, and as the concentration diminishes, new growth should eventually return to normal. While it might affect your harvest depending on when the exposure occurred, there's no need to panic. The best course of action is simply to ensure your plants are well-watered (but not overwatered) and to provide shade if it's particularly hot. Avoid adding fertilizers, pruning, or using other 'miracle products' — the plant will typically heal itself. You might even catch a tell-tale "chemically fruity" smell in the air if spraying has recently occurred nearby [1].
Sources: [1] "Your Plants Aren’t Sick… They’re Poisoned" — https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mfDbbqHC5GE
Yesterday's rainfall: 0.06 in
Today's growing degree-days (base 50°F): 20.3
| Day | High | Low | Precip | Conditions |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Wed, Jul 29 | 77° | 63° | — | Overcast |
| Thu, Jul 30 | 80° | 61° | — | Mainly clear |
| Fri, Jul 31 | 82° | 62° | 0.02 in (6%) | Moderate drizzle |
| Sat, Aug 1 | 71° | 65° | 0.33 in (44%) | Slight rain showers |
Despite battling a nasty "man flu," our friend Hoocho delivered a fantastic update on his diverse hydroponic systems, showcasing several impressive developments and key learnings [1]. His greenhouse, featuring the Hoocho Multibase systems, is "looking absolutely incredible," with the Multibases consistently delivering water and nutrients to a variety of plants, including store-bought tomato, capsicum, and zucchini seedlings. He highlighted the efficiency of the grow spikes, which effectively wick water and nutrients to the top of 300mm pots, with roots thriving throughout the coco coir [1].
Excitingly, Hoocho has refined his Multibase designs to be more economical, significantly reducing the filament needed for 3D printing. Even better, the new iterations are stackable with removable grow spikes, making compact storage a breeze for seasonal growers [1]. For our UK and European friends, he's also working on a 3D printable design for a rain gutter grow system adapted for local UPVC downpipes. Meanwhile, his Crack Key systems continue to produce fruiting chilies and tomatoes well past the winter solstice. A crucial lesson learned here was the importance of maintaining a low 1.0 EC fruiting nutrient solution; a higher 2.4 EC recently led to a "dramatic downturn" in plant health due to excessive salt buildup [1]. And on a brighter note, his hydroponic garlic experiments are "going really well."
For gardeners wrestling with an abundant harvest – especially those maximizing small spaces – long-term food preservation is always a hot topic. Katrina from Homegrown Florida recently offered a deep dive into her three-year odyssey with a Harvest Right freeze dryer, providing invaluable insights for anyone considering this preservation method [1].
Even from her modest 14-square-foot garden in Central Florida, Katrina often finds herself with more produce than can be consumed fresh. While she still employs traditional methods, her extensive experience with freeze-drying has revealed what truly works for extended food storage. In her video, she walks us through her current pantry setup, showcasing exactly how she stores her freeze-dried bounty and which items have become staples. She shares her honest opinions on the quality of various processed foods, even demonstrating rehydration and taste tests. For anyone curious about how freeze-dried food genuinely holds up over time, or those ready to embark on their own preservation journey, Katrina's three years of consistent, documented use offer a comprehensive and relatable look at the practicalities and benefits of this modern preservation technique.
This week, the Buckeye Yard & Garden Line from OSU BYGL offered a delightful, if slightly premature, reminder of "Christmas in July" [1]. While we might not be stringing up lights just yet, savvy gardeners know that successful holiday displays, especially those featuring live plants, often require planning months in advance. Think about those beautiful poinsettias or vibrant Christmas cacti — getting them to bloom perfectly for the holiday season often involves specific light, temperature, and feeding regimens that begin long before December. So, while you're tending to your summer garden, it might be a fun time to start daydreaming about what festive botanical touches you'd like to include in your home or garden come winter, giving yourself ample time to research and prepare.
Yesterday's rainfall: None
Today's growing degree-days (base 50°F): 22.4
| Day | High | Low | Precip | Conditions |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Tue, Jul 28 | 78° | 67° | 0.17 in (83%) | Slight rain |
| Wed, Jul 29 | 75° | 63° | — | Overcast |
| Thu, Jul 30 | 78° | 60° | — | Clear sky |
| Fri, Jul 31 | 83° | 62° | — | Overcast |
For anyone who enjoys seeing a perfectly curated garden tour online, Ashley from "Gardening In Canada" offers a refreshingly candid look at the realities of growing in a truly challenging climate. Her recent late-July tour of her Zone 3 garden, aptly titled "A Garden Tour Most YouTubers Would NEVER Show You… Zone 3 Nightmare," doesn't shy away from the struggles and unexpected curveballs that come with cold-climate gardening [1].
Gardening in Zone 3 means contending with a dramatically short growing season and highly unpredictable weather. Ashley highlighted how her spring was unexpectedly cold, followed by daily temperatures soaring above 30 degrees Celsius at the time of her tour. This kind of environmental volatility presents unique hurdles for plants and gardeners alike. Her unfiltered perspective provides invaluable context for fellow cold-climate gardeners, offering solidarity and practical insights into the true grit required to cultivate a vibrant garden when nature often throws its toughest challenges [1].
*** Source Footnote List: [1] Gardening In Canada — https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gn4U6JhhBE8
For our friends in Florida looking to maximize their fall harvest, there's a fantastic, productive layout for an 8x4 ft raised garden bed that promises to feed an entire family [1]. The design is clever, focusing on companion planting and smart choices for Florida's unique climate.
In this layout, the back left corner features green onions, while the far right back corner is home to parsley, both serving as excellent companion plants. Between them, six square feet are dedicated to bush green beans. Moving to the center, a kale plant is suggested for the left side, as kale tolerates Florida's warmer fall temperatures better than lettuce. The heart of the bed is reserved for big, unpruned cherry tomatoes and bell peppers, given ample space to grow wild and fruitful. A bush zucchini occupies the center right. The entire front edge of the bed is transformed into a flat panel trellis for up to 16 cucumber plants. Finally, calendula seeds are broadcast throughout the bed; these "pot marigolds" not only have medicinal uses but also attract pollinators and beneficial predators, making them another key companion plant [1]. This thoughtful plan makes the most of every square foot, proving that even a single raised bed can be incredibly productive. The creator is also looking for input on future layouts, including grow bags, GreenStalk systems, or traditional in-ground gardens [1].
Sources: [1] Homegrown Florida — https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NVN-bi4RwiQ
Yesterday's rainfall: None
Today's growing degree-days (base 50°F): 27.2
| Day | High | Low | Precip | Conditions |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Mon, Jul 27 | 88° | 66° | — | Overcast |
| Tue, Jul 28 | 77° | 67° | 0.31 in (31%) | Moderate rain |
| Wed, Jul 29 | 74° | 63° | — | Overcast |
| Thu, Jul 30 | 77° | 61° | — | Clear sky |
If you've felt the summer heat and persistent garden chores pushing you to the brink, you're not alone! Many gardeners hit a wall of "burnout" around this time of year, feeling the urge to throw in the trowel entirely. However, The Millennial Gardener issues a passionate plea: don't quit just yet, or you'll quickly regret it [1]. The allure of cooler temperatures, shorter daylight, and easier fall gardening often arrives just as seasonal depression can kick in, making the absence of a thriving green space even more keenly felt.
Beyond the seasonal joys, there's a practical and important reason to push through: food safety. The video starkly contrasts the controlled environment of a backyard garden with the commercial produce supply chain, which it describes as rife with potential cross-contamination. Citing federal health officials, it brings up instances like a "severe stomach bug outbreak" linked to shredded iceberg lettuce from a California farm, caused by contamination from "dirty hands in the field" and "dirty equipment." Homegrown food, picked fresh and clean, largely bypasses these risks, offering peace of mind along with delicious produce [1].
So, instead of giving up, consider embracing the easier aspects of fall gardening and even preparing now to mitigate burnout next year. Installing drip irrigation, for example, is highlighted as a way to significantly reduce future summer watering woes [1]. Pushing through the current challenges ensures you'll be ready to enjoy the bounty and benefits when the garden comes alive again in the pleasant autumn air.
*** [1] The Millennial Gardener — https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tqvxmXzXZ-U
It might be 98 degrees in Florida, but don't tell the garden it's too hot to produce! One dedicated gardener recently showed that with just 15 minutes of focused effort before retreating to the AC, a surprising bounty can still be gathered [1]. Despite battling bugs and the scorching sun, the quick harvest yielded a basket full of summer goodness. Among the treasures were ripe tomatoes, plenty of sweet Roulette Habanero peppers – which thrive in the heat and have had all their traditional spice bred out – and a cheerful collection of zinnias. The gardener, who admits to never meeting a zinnia they didn't love, managed to pull together an impressive haul, proving that even in the most intense summer conditions, a productive garden isn't just a dream [1].
Yesterday's rainfall: None
Today's growing degree-days (base 50°F): 21.9
| Day | High | Low | Precip | Conditions |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Sun, Jul 26 | 83° | 61° | — | Overcast |
| Mon, Jul 27 | 89° | 68° | — | Overcast |
| Tue, Jul 28 | 79° | 67° | 0.53 in (91%) | Violent rain showers |
| Wed, Jul 29 | 76° | 65° | 0.02 in (16%) | Light drizzle |
Many of us have embraced the wisdom of planting native species, believing they are always the superior choice for our gardens. However, a recent deep dive from Gardening In Canada challenges this blanket statement, suggesting that the truth is a bit more nuanced and depends heavily on what you're hoping to achieve [1].
While native plants undoubtedly have a strong advantage in supporting local biodiversity—think of the intricate web of microbes and macrofauna co-evolved with native flora—and can be fantastic for pollinators that have adapted alongside them, they aren't the only solution [1]. For instance, a continuous bloom cycle with a mix of plants, native or not, can effectively draw in a variety of pollinators. And when it comes to boosting your vegetable harvest, the origin of a flowering plant matters less than its ability to attract bees and other helpers [1].
Interestingly, the video points out that native plants, while adapted to their *natural* environment, might not always thrive in our highly altered garden soils, which often differ significantly from undisturbed ecosystems. In such cases, certain non-native plants or soil amendments might perform better. Plus, some non-native ornamentals can even offer a "leg up" by not acting as host plants for common native pests and diseases. The key, as the video concludes, isn't a strict native-versus-non-native debate, but rather asking what best suits your specific garden goals – whether that's a low-maintenance sedum bed, a productive vegetable patch, or a solution for a tricky shady spot [1].
For those of us tending to our indoor African violets, getting them to consistently produce those vibrant blooms can sometimes feel like a mystery. As it turns out, the secret often lies in something surprisingly simple: light [1]. According to a deep dive into scientific research, insufficient light is a primary reason African violets fail to flower, even when the foliage looks healthy.
The key to understanding optimal light is the Daily Light Integral, or DLI, which measures the total amount of light a plant receives over a 24-hour period. It’s a combination of both light intensity and how long the lights are on [1]. After analyzing numerous studies, the ideal DLI for African violets is an average of 8, with an intensity of around 10,000 lux. Many home growers, perhaps even unknowingly, provide far less light than this.
So, how do you know if your plants are getting enough? If you're using quality LED grow lights, manufacturers often provide PPFD values that can help you calculate your DLI. For other types of lights, or if you're unsure, a simple light meter or even a phone app can measure the light intensity, allowing you to gauge your DLI [1]. It’s also important to remember that not all LED "grow lights" are created equal; investing in a decent quality option is crucial for success [1].
Beyond light, temperature also plays a role, with 24°C (about 75°F) being optimal for flower production. And here’s a common myth debunked: resist the urge to remove healthy, older leaves! While some gardeners do it for aesthetics, research shows these leaves still actively photosynthesize, contributing significantly to the plant's energy and overall bloom potential. Only remove leaves when they naturally begin to yellow and die back [1].
By understanding and optimizing your African violet's light and environment, you'll be well on your way to a dazzling display of flowers!
Sources: [1] Garden Fundamentals — "The Light Secret African Violet Growers Don't Know About" — https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=geIQ8GkvhJY
Yesterday's rainfall: None
Today's growing degree-days (base 50°F): 20.3
| Day | High | Low | Precip | Conditions |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Sat, Jul 25 | 80° | 61° | — | Overcast |
| Sun, Jul 26 | 84° | 61° | — | Overcast |
| Mon, Jul 27 | 82° | 63° | 0.11 in (74%) | Thunderstorm |
| Tue, Jul 28 | 85° | 69° | 0.24 in (74%) | Thunderstorm w/ slight hail |
It turns out that cultivating a thriving garden, even when temperatures consistently push past 100°F, is not just a dream, but a reality, according to one Florida gardener [1]. The key, she explains, isn't to give up on gardening during the hottest months, but to carefully select heat-loving varieties that can withstand and even flourish in extreme conditions.
In a detailed tour of her central Florida garden, she showcased an impressive array of plants that are successfully producing food despite the intense summer heat [1]. Sweet potatoes stood out as a clear champion, identified as "the number one thing you can grow in a hot tropical climate," robustly producing tubers even with some chewed leaves. Surprisingly, a volunteer "Super Sweet 100" cherry tomato plant defied expectations, growing so prolifically on an arch trellis that it collapsed under its own weight, still yielding substantial, thick-skinned fruit [1].
Other successes included abundant Onza melons, described as "small personal watermelons" eagerly covering a trellis, and Puerto Rican black beans drying on another, promising a good harvest. While not everything was a runaway success—some flowers and peanuts struggled to sprout in one bed, leading to its transition to sun hemp as a soil-feeding cover crop—the overall message is one of resilience and adaptation [1]. By understanding what thrives in the heat and being willing to adjust, gardeners can indeed enjoy a productive harvest even during the dog days of summer.
*** [1] Homegrown Florida — https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oVgvTUDlEyY
As summer's peak begins to mellow, many of us might be tempted to put away our gardening tools, assuming the sowing season is over. But if you thought the approaching end of summer meant hanging up your gardening hat, think again! According to the folks at GrowVeg, late summer, specifically August, is actually an opportune time to start certain crops that are "fast growing, incredibly rewarding and will keep you in pickings well into autumn and beyond" [1].
One standout recommendation, which they dive into deeply, is Bok Choy, or Pak Choy, hailed as "an absolute gem of the late summer garden." If you've never grown it, you're in for a treat; it's not only "delicious to eat" but also "looks really fab in the garden" with its "beautiful plumptious stems and almost glossy green leaves." It's perfect for a quick stir-fry with soy sauce and plenty of garlic. Crucially, bok choy thrives as a "cool season crop," meaning it "absolutely relishes being sown at the slightly cooler end of the growing season and then growing into those cooler days of autumn." Trying to sow it in the intense heat of mid-summer often leads to it bolting, or flowering prematurely, before forming those desirable "luscious heads" [1].
For successful August planting, GrowVeg suggests sowing two seeds into each plug, later removing the weaker seedling to give the stronger one space to flourish. This method offers a dual advantage: it "saves a bit of space in the ground if other things are in there," and critically, it helps protect young bok choy from slugs, which are described as their "absolute nemesis" and have "really good taste" for this leafy green [1]. While the video highlights five must-start seeds for August, bok choy is presented as a prime example of how you can extend your harvest and enjoy fresh vegetables well past the traditional summer growing season [1].
Yesterday's rainfall: None
Today's growing degree-days (base 50°F): 16.7
| Day | High | Low | Precip | Conditions |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Fri, Jul 24 | 79° | 55° | — | Fog |
| Sat, Jul 25 | 81° | 62° | — | Overcast |
| Sun, Jul 26 | 82° | 62° | 0.19 in (39%) | Thunderstorm w/ slight hail |
| Mon, Jul 27 | 85° | 68° | 0.13 in (58%) | Thunderstorm w/ slight hail |
For those of us already dreaming of a bountiful fall harvest, it's officially seed-starting time! Homegrown Florida wraps up their fall garden planning series with crucial tips for getting your seeds off to a strong start, especially if you're gardening in warmer climates like Florida [1].
The biggest takeaway for any new seed starter is the importance of pre-moistening your soil mix. As our friend explains, seed starting mixes (and even potting soil) can be hydrophobic after sitting in a bag, meaning water just beads up or drains right through without truly soaking in. To combat this, thoroughly wet your soil, then let it sit in a tray with water at the bottom for 10 minutes to an hour, allowing it to absorb as much moisture as possible. This ensures your seeds have a consistently moist environment to germinate [1].
Once your soil is perfectly damp, create small divots and plant two seeds per cell to boost your chances of germination. For tiny seeds, just brush a thin layer of soil on top, roughly the same thickness as the seed itself, and give them another gentle watering [1].
In warmer zones like Florida, you might not even need grow lights! Once planted, trays can go outdoors in a *shady* spot. The ambient warmth will help them sprout in as little as 3-5 days. The key is to avoid direct sun at this stage, as it can dry out your precious seed-starting mix too quickly. Once those little green shoots emerge, then they're ready for full sun. In about 4-6 weeks, you'll be potting them up, and by September, they'll be ready for their permanent home in the garden [1].
*** Sources: [1] Homegrown Florida — https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9Gv_Xm7Bd04
If you've ever dreamt of enjoying fresh fruit harvests for half the year with minimal effort, you're in luck! The Millennial Gardener recently highlighted two "forgotten fruits"—figs and persimmons—that promise six months of continuous, low-maintenance harvests from June through December [1]. What makes them "forgotten" isn't a lack of deliciousness, but rather their poor performance as supermarket produce; they're nearly impossible to find perfectly ripe in stores, making home cultivation the only way to experience their "life-changing" flavor.
Leading the charge are fig trees, which the gardener describes as "spectacular" due to their incredible diversity. There are hundreds of varieties, each offering unique tastes and appearances, making them a favorite among fruit tree collectors [1]. Unlike most fruit trees that take years to fruit, fig trees can go from a $20 cutting to producing figs in as little as one growing season. They're also surprisingly resilient, growing in-ground from Hardiness Zones 6 through 10. Even in colder climates where they might die back, they often resprout from the roots and still yield fruit the same year [1]. Alongside figs, the video also champions persimmons as the other key to this extended harvest, emphasizing their ease of growth and delicious, hard-to-find ripe fruit [1]. <br /> [1] The Millennial Gardener — https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cHnrn8jXWg8
If you've been gazing at your garden, wondering why your plump, full-sized tomatoes refuse to turn red, you're not alone! It turns out the common culprits we often suspect — like fertilizer issues or too much pruning — might not be the real problem. As "Gardening In Canada" explains, the main reason your tomatoes are stubbornly green is often a scientific one related to temperature [1].
The video dives into the science of ripening, revealing that above 29-30°C (85-86°F), the production of lycopene—the red pigment—actually halts, even though the fruit continues to grow. This means your tomatoes might be perfectly healthy and fully developed inside, but the heat is literally stopping them from showing their true colors. Cooler nights, cooler days, and even having too many tomatoes on the plant can also slow things down, but extreme heat is a major factor.
So, what about those popular gardening hacks? Exposing plants to *more* sun can actually hinder the process if they're already getting plenty of light. Adding potassium isn't a miracle cure unless your plant has a genuine deficiency, and it certainly won't override heat stress. Heavy pruning or "stripping" leaves is detrimental, as leaves are crucial for carbohydrate production that feeds the fruit. Topping your plants, which removes new growth, can help existing fruits develop faster later in the season (mid-August), but it doesn't directly speed up ripening or combat heat [1].
What *can* you do? If you're experiencing a heatwave and your tomatoes are showing signs of blushing (known as the "breaker stage"), it's best to remove them from the plant and bring them indoors. Ripening them on the counter or in a paper bag with a banana (which releases ethylene gas, the natural ripening agent) will yield flavorful, fully ripened tomatoes without risking sunscald or cracking. You can also try pruning for better airflow or using shade cloth to physically lower the temperature around your plants [1].
Yesterday's rainfall: None
Today's growing degree-days (base 50°F): 13.5
| Day | High | Low | Precip | Conditions |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Thu, Jul 23 | 74° | 53° | — | Fog |
| Fri, Jul 24 | 77° | 55° | — | Overcast |
| Sat, Jul 25 | 78° | 56° | — | Overcast |
| Sun, Jul 26 | 83° | 64° | 0.36 in (16%) | Thunderstorm |
As the summer sun begins to mellow, many of us are already eyeing the cooler weather and the promise of a bountiful fall garden. If you're serious about maximizing your autumn harvest, preparing your garden beds now is absolutely key. Homegrown Florida emphasizes that your fall garden's success hinges entirely on healthy soil, offering a detailed roadmap for bed preparation [1].
The process begins by clearing out all spent summer plants. Once your beds are clean, a fresh layer of compost is essential for enriching the soil. If you don't make your own, store-bought options like Black Kow work wonderfully [1]. Next, it's time for amendments. While a soil test offers the most precise guidance, an all-purpose fertilizer like Garden Tone or Plant Tone from Espoma is a great general option. For those targeting specific nutrient needs, blood or feather meal can boost nitrogen, bone meal adds phosphorus, and potash or kelp meal provides potassium [1].
Perhaps the most impactful tip, especially if you have about four weeks before fall planting, is to sow a cover crop. Sun hemp is highly recommended for its rapid growth, ability to produce a lot of plant material (biomass), and its excellent nitrogen-fixing properties. However, dried black-eyed peas are an accessible alternative. The goal is to let these crops grow enough to support soil health and infuse nitrogen, then cut them at the root, leaving the plant material on top to decompose and serve as natural mulch for your fall season [1].
Meanwhile, The Millennial Gardener also touched upon the broader transition from winding down summer to preparing for fall harvests in a recent Q&A session [2]. This serves as a great reminder that while specific bed prep is crucial, the overall mindset is shifting towards autumn's abundant gardening opportunities.
Today, we're diving into a topic that often sparks debate in gardening circles: the sustainability of peat moss. A recent deep-dive from *Garden Fundamentals* challenges common beliefs, suggesting that the narrative around peat moss unsustainability, particularly in North America, might be a significant misconception [1].
The video features experts from the Canadian Sphagnum Peat Moss Association (CSPMA), Asha Hangari and Stephanie Bordeaux, who aim to set the record straight. They clarify some often-confused terminology: while "sphagnum" refers to the living mosses, the product we buy in bags as "sphagnum peat moss" is actually "peat" – the dead, decomposed remains of these mosses. This Canadian peat is highly valued in horticulture for its exceptional water and nutrient retention [1].
Perhaps the most compelling argument made is about the sheer volume of peatland resources versus the industry's footprint. Globally, there are an astounding 500 million hectares of peatlands. Canada alone accounts for a significant portion, with 119 million hectares. Despite this vast resource, the Canadian peat industry's historical harvesting footprint is remarkably small, impacting less than 0.03% of all Canadian peatlands. This perspective suggests that, at current rates and with responsible management, the use of peat moss sourced from North America could be far more sustainable than many gardeners have been led to believe [1].
Yesterday's rainfall: 0.04 in
Today's growing degree-days (base 50°F): 16.0
| Day | High | Low | Precip | Conditions |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Wed, Jul 22 | 71° | 61° | — | Overcast |
| Thu, Jul 23 | 75° | 55° | — | Overcast |
| Fri, Jul 24 | 76° | 55° | — | Overcast |
| Sat, Jul 25 | 79° | 59° | — | Overcast |
For those of us dreaming of a bountiful fall harvest, the crucial step of garden layout is where all the planning truly starts to come together. Homegrown Florida recently delved into this vital stage, sharing insights on how to optimize garden space, especially for raised beds [1]. The key takeaway is the power of a good visual and planning tool to ensure every inch of "prime real estate" is used efficiently.
The video highlights the SeedTime app's layout feature, which allows gardeners to digitally draw out their entire garden, from raised beds to in-ground plots and even vertical containers. What makes this particularly helpful is its ability to drop plants from a calendar list directly into your beds, automatically calculating the correct spacing. No more guessing if your lettuce or carrots are too close together – the app knows precisely how many plants fit and their ideal spacing, helping to prevent overcrowding and maximize yield [1].
Beyond just initial placement, the app helps prioritize your must-grow vegetables, ensuring they get a spot before space runs out. A really neat feature is how the layout dynamically adjusts over time, showing what plants are growing, what's been harvested, and what might succumb to frost as the seasons change. This helps identify open spots for succession planting, a strategy Homegrown Florida emphasizes for continuously growing food in even small spaces [1]. With thoughtful planning, you can ensure your garden is always productive, moving from one crop to the next seamlessly.
*** Sources: [1] Homegrown Florida — https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3dLHA9WOgEU
Yesterday's rainfall: None
Today's growing degree-days (base 50°F): 27.3
| Day | High | Low | Precip | Conditions |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Tue, Jul 21 | 86° | 69° | 0.02 in (54%) | Moderate drizzle |
| Wed, Jul 22 | 70° | 59° | — | Overcast |
| Thu, Jul 23 | 73° | 52° | — | Overcast |
| Fri, Jul 24 | 76° | 56° | — | Overcast |
As we continue our journey into fall garden planning, it turns out that *when* you plant can be just as important as *what* you plant. Homegrown Florida's latest video, Part 3 of their Fall Garden Planning series, dives deep into scheduling, emphasizing that even the right crop can fail if planted at the wrong time [1].
The key takeaway? There's a fantastic tool to help take the guesswork out of timing: the SeedTime app. This platform, available on both computer and phone, allows you to map out your entire fall garden schedule with surprising ease. Imagine wanting to grow enough food to feed your family for a whole year from your fall garden – SeedTime aims to make that achievable. You simply input your priority crops, like indeterminate San Marzano tomatoes, and the app does the heavy lifting. It automatically calculates the optimal dates for everything from seeding and bed prep to transplanting, cultivation, and even your first expected harvest, all based on your specific planting zone. While you can adjust dates manually, the app essentially becomes your garden assistant, providing a weekly task list so you know exactly what to do and when, without having to remember every detail. It's designed to keep you perfectly on schedule, ensuring your hard work yields the best possible results [1].
***
Source Footnote List: [1] Homegrown Florida — https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-KBJemaC9oU
Ever wondered if adding a little something extra to your garden soil could give your plants a magical boost? This week, Ashley from Gardening In Canada, a soil scientist, tackled the popular question of "soil inoculation" — the idea that you can supercharge your soil by adding things like forest soil, or even common household items [1].
While microbes are undeniably crucial for nutrient cycling and overall plant health, Ashley explains that truly healthy soil isn't built on quick fixes. Many common "hacks" that promise a microbial frenzy often fall short or even have downsides. For instance, while unsulfered molasses can kickstart compost, adding too much to garden soil can lead to oxygen deprivation and a microbial "boom and bust" cycle [1]. Similarly, white sugar might cause an initial burst of microbial activity, but without other essential nutrients like nitrogen and phosphorus, it can actually lead to nitrogen deficiencies as microbes consume what would otherwise be available to plants [1].
Even more surprising suggestions like adding baking yeast, oatmeal, or even beer were explored. Baking yeast can provide food for existing microbes, but it's not the specific soil yeast strains needed for long-term establishment [1]. Oatmeal, with its diverse nutrients, *can* be beneficial for very poor soils, but its cost makes it impractical for large areas [1]. Beer, containing yeast, sugars, and nutrients, offers a temporary boost but its alcohol content can harm plant roots, and it's certainly not a cost-effective solution for a whole garden [1].
The real secret to fostering a thriving microbial community, Ashley emphasizes, lies in consistent, long-term practices. This means ensuring a steady supply of organic material through compost, manures, and mulches, combined with adequate moisture and warmth. Critically, cultivating biodiversity by planting a wide variety of plants encourages a diverse range of microbial exudates, which in turn attracts and supports a rich, balanced microbial ecosystem that truly benefits your garden in the long run [1].
Yesterday's rainfall: None
Today's growing degree-days (base 50°F): 19.3
| Day | High | Low | Precip | Conditions |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Mon, Jul 20 | 82° | 57° | — | Fog |
| Tue, Jul 21 | 80° | 67° | 0.20 in (67%) | Moderate rain showers |
| Wed, Jul 22 | 68° | 57° | 0.02 in (34%) | Light drizzle |
| Thu, Jul 23 | 72° | 52° | — | Clear sky |
It might still feel like peak summer, but if you're dreaming of a bountiful fall garden, the time to act is *now*! Both The Millennial Gardener and Homegrown Florida emphasize that early preparation is absolutely critical for a successful autumn harvest.
The Millennial Gardener highlights the importance of starting seeds indoors during mid-summer, arguing that this proactive approach helps overcome the challenges of decreasing daylight and solar intensity later in the season [1]. He offers a detailed guide to indoor seed starting, recommending filling trays with sterile mix, creating small divots, and overseeding 2-3 seeds per cell to ensure good germination. Gentle, layered watering is key, and while heat mats are useful in colder months, ambient summer temperatures are often sufficient for brassicas and lettuces, which prefer 70-80°F soil. Under grow lights, germination can happen in about a week, with seedlings ready for transplanting in roughly six weeks [1]. Specific crops he recommends starting now include Romaine lettuce (which tolerates both late summer warmth and cool fall conditions), Cabbage (requiring significant solar energy for head formation), and Kale (the most cold-hardy, capable of surviving well into winter with protection) [1]. Should outdoor temperatures remain high at transplant time, using shade cloth can help tender seedlings acclimate.
Meanwhile, Homegrown Florida reminds us that beyond seeds, some specialized crops and varieties need to be *pre-ordered* well in advance, as many seed companies run out of stock in the fall [2]. Items like garlic, onion sets, potatoes, and strawberries are often not grown from seed and require early reservation. They specifically recommend suppliers like Hoss for garlic, onions, and strawberries, and Grand Teton's Organics for potatoes, noting that these items often backorder and ship later in the season [2]. Organizing your existing seed stash and comparing it to your fall priority list is also a smart move to make now.
Both sources agree: whether it's getting your seeds started indoors or placing those crucial pre-orders, getting ahead of the game now will pay off with delicious harvests deep into fall and even early winter.
Yesterday's rainfall: 0.57 in
Today's growing degree-days (base 50°F): 19.5
| Day | High | Low | Precip | Conditions |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Sun, Jul 19 | 75° | 64° | — | Overcast |
| Mon, Jul 20 | 85° | 58° | — | Overcast |
| Tue, Jul 21 | 83° | 64° | 0.11 in (74%) | Thunderstorm w/ slight hail |
| Wed, Jul 22 | 72° | 59° | 0.05 in (32%) | Light drizzle |
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_Garden Fundame
Yesterday's rainfall: 0.01 in
Today's growing degree-days (base 50°F): 30.4
| Day | High | Low | Precip | Conditions |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Sat, Jul 18 | 90° | 71° | 0.29 in (53%) | Moderate rain showers |
| Sun, Jul 19 | 79° | 66° | — | Overcast |
| Mon, Jul 20 | 78° | 57° | — | Overcast |
| Tue, Jul 21 | 81° | 67° | 0.29 in (72%) | Thunderstorm w/ slight hail |
For our green-thumbed friends in warmer climates, especially Florida, summer can be a particularly tricky time for vegetable patches. While you might expect your tomato plants to thrive, the reality is that the intense combination of high temperatures and humidity often leads to them simply giving up – ceasing to flower and fruit altogether. It's a common struggle for many gardeners who watch their promising plants stall out during the peak heat [1].
Thankfully, it doesn't have to be the end of your summer tomato dreams! Homegrown Florida has shared some valuable insights and "a few tricks" to keep your plants productive for longer, even in the Sunshine State's challenging conditions. They delve into the scientific reasons behind why your tomatoes might be throwing in the towel, and then offer practical solutions and actionable steps to manage the heat and extend your harvest. The key, it seems, is understanding these environmental triggers, allowing you to proactively maintain a healthy, fruit-bearing patch when others might be waving a white flag. So, if your tomatoes have been looking a little lackluster as the mercury rises, these proven tips could be just what you need to keep those delicious homegrown tomatoes coming [1].
Good news for gardeners looking for organic pest solutions! Garlic, that pungent kitchen staple, is emerging as a powerful, natural deterrent against a host of common garden invaders. Its secret lies in allicin, a sulfur-containing compound that gives garlic its distinctive aroma. This compound confuses insect sensory receptors, making it hard for pests like aphids, spider mites, caterpillars, whiteflies, slugs, and even carrot flies to find their target plants. What's more, garlic also acts as a natural anti-fungal and anti-bacterial agent, offering a double defense against issues like powdery mildew [1].
For application, you can craft two types of garlic sprays: a general-purpose preventative spray using garlic, water, and ecological soap, or a more concentrated, targeted spray for heavier infestations that incorporates a little oil to help it adhere to leaves. When using these sprays, it’s best to apply them in the evening. This not only prevents potential leaf scorching from direct sun on wet, oily leaves but also protects beneficial pollinators, who are less active after dusk. Remember to test any new spray on a small leaf first, as the potency of garlic can vary. Beyond sprays, simply companion planting garlic near vulnerable crops like roses, tomatoes, or brassicas can offer a passive defense, repelling pests and potentially even enhancing the flavor of your produce [1].
Meanwhile, on the more specific pest identification front, a recent query from the OSU BYGL (Buckeye Yard & Garden Line) newsletter highlights the "Solitary Oak Leafminer," prompting gardeners to consider if this insect is merely an oddity or a serious threat to their oak trees [2]. This serves as a good reminder that while broad-spectrum organic solutions are fantastic, staying informed about particular local or regional pests—especially those affecting specific plants like oak trees—is equally important. Always check with your local university extension for guidance on specific threats in your area.
Yesterday's rainfall: None
Today's growing degree-days (base 50°F): 27.1
| Day | High | Low | Precip | Conditions |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Fri, Jul 17 | 89° | 65° | — | Fog |
| Sat, Jul 18 | 91° | 71° | 1.03 in (92%) | Slight rain showers |
| Sun, Jul 19 | 73° | 60° | — | Overcast |
| Mon, Jul 20 | 79° | 55° | — | Overcast |
Weather-driven disasters are an unfortunate reality for farms of all sizes and types, and how communities prepare, respond, and recover can vary greatly. That's why Ohio State University's VegNet News is highlighting the importance of farmer and first responder preparedness, emphasizing that every voice matters in understanding these complex challenges [1]. The initiative aims to gather crucial insights through a survey, delving into existing knowledge about disaster readiness, effective response strategies, and long-term recovery efforts across different agricultural settings and communities. This effort underscores a vital push to better equip both farmers and the emergency personnel who assist them when unforeseen events strike.
Ever wondered if those garden "hacks" like adding sugar or beer to your soil actually work to feed beneficial microbes? A recent dive into soil science from *Gardening In Canada* sheds some light, debunking some myths while confirming a few surprising truths [1].
According to soil scientist Ashley, many of these unconventional amendments offer only a temporary boost, not the sustained nutrition microbes truly need. For instance, molasses can accelerate compost, but in soil, too much can lead to oxygen deprivation and a subsequent die-off of microbial populations after an initial frenzy. White sugar likewise causes a quick burst of activity, but without other vital nutrients like nitrogen and phosphorus, microbes will actually draw nitrogen away from your plants, causing deficiencies [1].
Surprisingly, baking yeast can be beneficial. While not true "soil yeast," adding it introduces complex carbon that microbes can feed on, supporting biodiversity without the severe boom-and-bust cycle of simple sugars. Expired yeast is a great, harmless addition to your compost or garden. Even more unexpectedly, plain oatmeal makes a surprisingly good amendment. Its varied nutrients and easy decomposition can significantly benefit microbe-poor soils, though it's not a cost-effective solution for large areas [1].
As for liquid treats: Beer, with its mix of sugars, yeast, and nutrients, can offer a temporary microbial boost after an initial dip caused by the alcohol. Soda, however, mainly provides sugar, leading to the same short-lived frenzy and potential nitrogen issues as white sugar, plus it’s sticky and expensive. Ultimately, building truly healthy soil teeming with microbes requires long-term strategies: consistent additions of organic material like compost and manures, maintaining a top mulch and moisture, and planting a diverse range of species to encourage a rich variety of microbial life [1].
On his 40th birthday this week, "The Millennial Gardener" shared a deeply personal update with his audience, revealing that he had been living a secret for the past year [1]. He confessed that exactly one year prior, around his 39th birthday, he had reached a breaking point due to severe mental and physical burnout. For years, he was effectively working 100 hours a week, balancing a full-time engineering career with dedicating 40 hours a week to his increasingly popular YouTube channel, plus the significant time required for his own garden.
He explained that he had initially told his viewers he was quitting engineering to go full-time with his channel, but that wasn't entirely honest. Instead, he cautiously transitioned to working part-time as an engineer (two days a week), dedicating the other five days to his garden and YouTube content. This discretion stemmed from his concerns about job security and the financial viability of gardening, which is a highly seasonal niche with viewership peaking from March to June. He worried about sustaining income during the much slower months, comparing it to "operating an ice cream stand in a place with four true seasons" [1].
Despite these initial reservations and the "difficult changes YouTube has made to long-format content creators this year," he proudly announced that his calculated risk paid off. He successfully completed an entire calendar year as a full-time YouTube gardener, expressing profound gratitude to his "chosen family" of viewers whose loyalty and support made it all possible [1].
Yesterday's rainfall: None
Today's growing degree-days (base 50°F): 28.8
| Day | High | Low | Precip | Conditions |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Thu, Jul 16 | 86° | 72° | — | Overcast |
| Fri, Jul 17 | 93° | 64° | — | Overcast |
| Sat, Jul 18 | 86° | 68° | 0.35 in (79%) | Thunderstorm w/ slight hail |
| Sun, Jul 19 | 74° | 61° | — | Overcast |
Big news for Ohio's agricultural community as the 2026 Ohio Custom Rates have just been released by Ohio State University Extension [1]. This comprehensive report is a vital tool for farmers, landowners, and custom operators alike, offering up-to-date benchmarks for the charges associated with hiring someone to perform specific farm tasks, from planting and harvesting to haymaking and manure application. Understanding these rates is crucial for effective budgeting, lease agreements, and overall financial planning in a constantly evolving agricultural landscape. The report, compiled by a team of OSU Extension experts including Barry Ward, Eric Richer, John Barker, and Amanda Bennett, provides invaluable data to help producers make informed decisions, ensuring fairness and profitability for both those providing and receiving custom services.
Yesterday's rainfall: None
Today's growing degree-days (base 50°F): 32.3
| Day | High | Low | Precip | Conditions |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Wed, Jul 15 | 94° | 70° | — | Overcast |
| Thu, Jul 16 | 90° | 73° | — | Overcast |
| Fri, Jul 17 | 76° | 64° | 0.11 in (24%) | Slight rain showers |
| Sat, Jul 18 | 86° | 67° | 0.04 in (69%) | Moderate drizzle |
For Ohio's fruit growers, the growing season can bring a fresh set of questions and challenges as crops mature. Recognizing this, the Ohio State University Extension is stepping up to offer vital mid-season support with their new “All About Fruit: Ask the Expert” webinar series [1]. This initiative provides an excellent opportunity for growers to get real-time answers to their pressing questions directly from OSU Extension experts. As the season progresses towards harvest, concerns often shift to pest management, ensuring fruit quality, and preparing for a successful yield. This series is designed to tackle those very issues, offering guidance on everything from crop production techniques to handling new challenges that emerge in the field. It's a fantastic way for anyone cultivating fruit in Ohio to stay informed and address specific concerns, ensuring their hard work translates into a bountiful harvest.
Ever notice your squash plants looking a bit dramatic in the afternoon, all wilted and sad, only to perk right back up by evening? If so, you're not alone, and usually, there's no need to panic! It turns out this midday droop is often a completely natural, evolutionary response to the heat, sun, and wind [1].
Squash plants have wonderfully large leaves, which act like giant solar panels. While great for photosynthesis, they also have a vast surface area from which water can evaporate quickly when temperatures rise. To protect themselves from losing too much moisture, squash plants temporarily close their stomata (tiny pores on leaves) and wilt, essentially going into survival mode. It's their way of conserving water in hot conditions [1].
So, how do you know if it's normal heat stress or something more serious? The key is timing: if your squash is still wilted the *next morning*, then it’s time to investigate for issues like drought, root damage, disease, or pests like squash vine borers. But if they bounce back overnight, they're likely just responding to the day's peak heat [1].
While this temporary wilting does slow down photosynthesis slightly, leading to a minor reduction in yield, it's generally not a major concern. However, if you're experiencing prolonged wilting due to consistently high temperatures, poor plant placement, or roots overheating in containers, you might consider some interventions. Options include providing shade cloth during the hottest part of the day, watering deeply early in the morning to cool roots, ensuring good airflow through pruning, and applying a thick layer of mulch to help regulate soil temperature [1]. So, next time your squash takes an afternoon nap, you'll know what's really going on beneath the surface!
Yesterday's rainfall: None
Today's growing degree-days (base 50°F): 26.8
| Day | High | Low | Precip | Conditions |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Tue, Jul 14 | 91° | 62° | — | Overcast |
| Wed, Jul 15 | 95° | 69° | — | Overcast |
| Thu, Jul 16 | 83° | 69° | — | Overcast |
| Fri, Jul 17 | 86° | 66° | 0.02 in (22%) | Thunderstorm |
Yesterday's rainfall: None
Today's growing degree-days (base 50°F): 24.0
| Day | High | Low | Precip | Conditions |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Mon, Jul 13 | 84° | 64° | — | Partly cloudy |
| Tue, Jul 14 | 92° | 65° | — | Overcast |
| Wed, Jul 15 | 88° | 70° | — | Overcast |
| Thu, Jul 16 | 83° | 70° | — | Overcast |
This week, we heard a powerful story about finding strength in the soil, even when life feels overwhelming. The Millennial Gardener openly shared that 2026 has been the most challenging year of his life, both mentally and physically, admitting there were times he "didn't even think I was going to make it" [1]. Juggling intense personal struggles with an ambitious garden project that perhaps bit off more than he could chew, he described himself as "at the end of my rope and burning the candle at both ends too long." Yet, amidst this profound difficulty, his garden emerged as an "unstoppable" force, providing an incredible silver lining. Despite the immense effort that nearly broke him, the "fruits of my labor" have resulted in record-setting harvests. For The Millennial Gardener, the act of nurturing and seeing his garden thrive became "the only thing that" offered solace and purpose during an exceptionally tough period, underscoring how gardening can be a profound source of resilience and reward, even when personal circumstances are dire [1].
Yesterday's rainfall: None
Today's growing degree-days (base 50°F): 23.4
| Day | High | Low | Precip | Conditions |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Sun, Jul 12 | 83° | 64° | — | Overcast |
| Mon, Jul 13 | 88° | 63° | — | Overcast |
| Tue, Jul 14 | 87° | 66° | — | Overcast |
| Wed, Jul 15 | 89° | 69° | 0.00 in (5%) | Light drizzle |
Seeing yellow leaves on your beloved plants can be a real head-scratcher, and our first instinct is often to reach for the fertilizer, assuming a nutrient deficiency. But as soil scientist Ashley from Gardening In Canada recently highlighted, that impulse might be doing more harm than good [1]. Yellow tomato leaves, in particular, are frequently misdiagnosed, leading gardeners to spend money on products their plants don't even need.
Ashley emphasizes that plants are incredibly strategic; they view leaves as "expensive" to maintain and will "reject" those not pulling their weight. Often, yellowing leaves—especially older ones at the bottom of the plant—are simply reaching the end of their natural life cycle. Mechanical damage from wind, rain, or even curious pets can also lead a plant to shed a leaf. The fascinating part? When a leaf yellows due to age or damage (and not pests or disease), the plant is actively reclaiming valuable nutrients like nitrogen and magnesium from it, essentially turning it into "free fertilizer" for healthier parts of the plant.
So, the next time you spot some yellowing, take a closer look. If the leaves are old and otherwise healthy, Ashley advises leaving them be—your plant is recycling! The only time to intervene and remove yellow leaves is if they show signs of disease or pest infestation, which could spread to the rest of your plant [1]. It's a great reminder to diagnose the root cause before reaching for quick fixes!
If you've ever tried propagating African violets, you might have wondered about the best time to separate those adorable baby plantlets from their mother leaf, or perhaps been advised to bag everything. Garden Fundamentals sheds light on these common dilemmas, sharing practical tips from years of experience [1].
First, let's clear up the bagging myth. While often recommended online, bagging plant material isn't a universal solution. It's truly an "emergency system" designed for cuttings with no or very few roots, creating 100% humidity to encourage root development. But once roots form, it's crucial to remove plants gradually, as constant high humidity becomes a haven for mold. Gradually open the bag over about a week to acclimate the plant to normal room humidity, preventing rot and fungal issues [1].
When it comes to separating those tiny plantlets, there's actually "no rush," and the timing largely depends on your comfort level and goals. For less experienced propagators, it's perfectly fine to leave the babies attached to the mother leaf longer. They'll grow larger, making them easier to handle and more robust after separation. The mother leaf will continue to provide nutrients, though the babies also develop their own roots. However, if your goal is to maximize the number of new plants, an experienced hand might separate earlier. Removing plantlets while the mother leaf is still green and healthy can encourage it to produce even more babies. A wise approach for beginners is to separate just a couple of plantlets to gain experience, while leaving others attached to grow larger [1].
For precise work, Garden Fundamentals recommends using a good set of tweezers, a sharp steak knife, and small-bladed pruners or scissors, ensuring clean cuts without damaging the delicate new growth [1].
*** [1] "African Violet Propagation: The Right Time to Separate Plantlets" — Garden Fundamentals
Yesterday's rainfall: 0.01 in
Today's growing degree-days (base 50°F): 25.0
| Day | High | Low | Precip | Conditions |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Sat, Jul 11 | 82° | 68° | — | Overcast |
| Sun, Jul 12 | 82° | 64° | — | Overcast |
| Mon, Jul 13 | 82° | 63° | — | Overcast |
| Tue, Jul 14 | 87° | 66° | — | Partly cloudy |
For our friends in Florida, it's time to start thinking about your fall garden – and no, that's not too early! According to Homegrown Florida, a successful fall garden in the Sunshine State actually begins weeks, even months, before you put a single plant in the ground, with planning kicking off as early as July [1].
It might feel "super early" to be planning for fall while summer is in full swing, but fall and winter are truly Florida's "prime growing season." This means that to maximize your harvest, some seeds need to be started as early as late July or early August. The channel stresses that a little planning goes a long way, guiding gardeners through the entire process: from brainstorming what to grow and choosing the best varieties, to deciding what makes the cut for your space. It also covers crucial steps like figuring out precise planting dates, designing your garden layout, preparing your beds, and ensuring you start those seeds at just the right time. So, if you're in Florida and dreaming of a bountiful fall harvest, now's the moment to grab your notebook and start mapping out your green-thumb ambitions!
For those dreaming of a steady supply of fresh, crisp greens without needing a sprawling garden, GrowVeg has some fantastic news. They've put together a guide on how to grow "endless salads" right in containers, making gourmet, restaurant-quality leaves accessible to anyone, even if you're a complete beginner [1].
It turns out you don't need much – just some containers, seeds, and potting mix – to cultivate a continuous harvest all season long. GrowVeg's expert, Ben, walks through everything you need to know: from choosing the right salad varieties that thrive in pots, to setting up your containers effectively. He also covers essential tips for managing watering and nutrition, ensuring your greens are always luscious. The key, they explain, lies in specific harvesting techniques that encourage regrowth, guaranteeing that you can keep picking fresh leaves directly from your doorstep whenever you fancy [1].
This approach is perfect for urban dwellers, balcony gardeners, or anyone short on space, promising speed and ease in bringing farm-to-table freshness right into your kitchen without any prior experience. It really simplifies the dream of having a constant supply of homegrown salads ready to go [1].
Yesterday's rainfall: None
Today's growing degree-days (base 50°F): 26.6
| Day | High | Low | Precip | Conditions |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Fri, Jul 10 | 82° | 71° | — | Overcast |
| Sat, Jul 11 | 82° | 69° | — | Overcast |
| Sun, Jul 12 | 79° | 60° | — | Overcast |
| Mon, Jul 13 | 85° | 61° | 0.00 in (2%) | Light drizzle |
It seems many of us who dabble in gardening share a common frustration: our zucchini plants, despite their initial vigor, often struggle to produce consistently or simply give up long before the summer ends. If you've ever felt this particular pang of disappointment, you're not alone. The good news is, one gardener claims to have "cracked the code" to achieving those coveted "bumper crops all the way until frost" [1].
The Millennial Gardener, drawing from about eight years of his own trials and tribulations, suggests that many backyard growers make common mistakes that lead to premature plant decline and inconsistent yields. He promises that by identifying and stopping these errors, you can transform your zucchini patch into a source of "nonstop zucchini harvests all summer into fall." While the specifics of these three common mistakes aren't detailed, the video promises practical solutions to keep your plants thriving and producing abundance. So, if your zucchini endeavors have been more bust than boom, this might be just the guidance you need to enjoy a truly fruitful season [1].
As July officially arrives, our gardens begin to experience a significant shift, often leading to changes that might initially cause concern but are, in fact, completely normal [1]. The strategies that worked in June for rapid vegetative growth now need tweaking, as plants like tomatoes redirect their energy from producing stems and leaves towards developing fruits and flowers. So, if your tomato plants seem to slow down, resist the urge to over-fertilize with nitrogen, which can actually confuse them; instead, simply keep them watered and happy, allowing them to focus on fruit production [1].
The increasing heat and changing daylight length also play a big role. You might notice plants like squash, brassicas, or even lettuce showing signs of stress, such as midday wilting, sunburn, or stunted growth. This is often the plant entering a temporary dormancy to cope with extreme temperatures. While solutions like shade cloth or mulching to keep roots cool can help, it's important to differentiate true stress from normal behavior. For instance, lower leaves turning yellow in July is usually just a sign of age as they've completed their photosynthetic duty [1].
Similarly, if you see leaves wilting at midday, don't immediately reach for the watering can. Check the plant again first thing the following morning. If it's still wilted before noon, then it likely needs water or might be facing a pest issue, but often, it's just a temporary response to the heat [1]. Lastly, a crucial tip for maximizing your harvest: be diligent about picking ripe fruits like cucumbers, zucchinis, peppers, and beans promptly. Allowing them to grow "ginormous" might be visually impressive, but it signals to the plant that its reproductive cycle is complete, causing it to slow or stop producing new fruits altogether [1].
Yesterday's rainfall: None
Today's growing degree-days (base 50°F): 26.6
| Day | High | Low | Precip | Conditions |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Thu, Jul 9 | 85° | 68° | — | Overcast |
| Fri, Jul 10 | 82° | 70° | — | Overcast |
| Sat, Jul 11 | 78° | 67° | — | Overcast |
| Sun, Jul 12 | 77° | 60° | — | Overcast |
For those in the Greater Dayton area looking to sharpen their plant diagnostic skills, OSU's Buckeye Yard & Garden Line (BYGL) is hosting a "Diagnostic Walkabout" this coming Monday at the beautiful Ferncliff Cemetery & Arboretum [1]. These events are fantastic opportunities to learn from experts in a real-world setting, observing and identifying various plant issues, from common pests and diseases to environmental stressors. It's a chance to see firsthand how professionals diagnose problems in the landscape, offering invaluable insights for home gardeners and horticultural enthusiasts alike. Whether you're grappling with a mysterious wilting shrub or just curious to expand your botanical knowledge, a diagnostic walkabout can significantly enhance your ability to keep your own garden thriving.
Today, we stumbled upon a fantastic DIY project from Hoocho that truly levels up the home gardening game: a self-watering, auto-refilling, wicking, raised hydroponic grow bed [1]. Imagine a system that largely takes care of itself, delivering nutrients to your plants via capillary action, all while keeping maintenance to a minimum. That's precisely what this innovative design aims to achieve, promising an efficient and low-maintenance way to grow.
The build starts with surprisingly affordable Vevor furniture legs – around $30 each – supporting a robust frame of treated pine. A PVC pond liner then forms the watertight basin, similar to other grow bed designs. However, where this system truly shines is its unique end pieces. While one end uses simple 3D-printed blockers, the opposite end is ingeniously designed to integrate the wicking mechanism and a float valve. This "wicking end" features a hollow "gate piece" through which wicking material extends into a dedicated float valve compartment. This clever setup ensures the bed's nutrient reservoir automatically refills as needed. For those without a 3D printer, Hoocho thoughtfully suggests practical alternatives, such as a custom-cut wood block with a channel or even using an auto-refill dog bowl to house the float valve and wicking fabric – brilliant! This detailed guide covers everything from construction to media selection and even how to manage rain effects, making advanced hydroponics accessible and beautifully hands-off [1].
Yesterday's rainfall: None
Today's growing degree-days (base 50°F): 24.8
| Day | High | Low | Precip | Conditions |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Wed, Jul 8 | 84° | 66° | — | Fog |
| Thu, Jul 9 | 87° | 69° | — | Overcast |
| Fri, Jul 10 | 82° | 67° | 0.10 in (62%) | Slight rain showers |
| Sat, Jul 11 | 79° | 66° | 0.02 in (12%) | Light drizzle |
There's a persistent myth circulating on social media that heavily pruning your squash plants – think removing lower leaves, runners, suckers, tendrils, and even some flowers – will magically redirect energy and result in a bigger harvest. However, Ashley from "Gardening In Canada" dives deep into the science to debunk this popular "hack," revealing that most of these practices are not only unnecessary but can actually harm your plant's productivity [1].
Contrary to the idea that old leaves are an energy drain, Ashley explains that every single healthy leaf on a squash plant is a crucial "hub for photosynthesis." Think of each leaf as a tiny solar panel, actively converting sunlight into the carbohydrates the plant needs to grow and produce fruit. Removing a healthy leaf is essentially like taking away one of these solar panels, directly reducing the plant's capacity to create energy. Scientific research consistently shows that defoliating healthy leaves, or even slightly yellowing ones, leads to a net decrease in yields [1].
So, when *is* it okay to remove a leaf? Ashley offers a "nature tax" guideline: if less than 30% of your plant is affected by pests or disease, intervening by defoliating will cause the same yield decrease as simply leaving the slight damage in place. Only when 30% or more of the plant is compromised by issues like powdery mildew or significant pest damage should you consider mechanical intervention like leaf removal. Otherwise, let those leaves do their job [1].
Sources: [1] "Does Pruning Squash Actually Increase Yield? ⚠️" — Gardening In Canada https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vmKfmxsMS6o
Yesterday's rainfall: 0.77 in
Today's growing degree-days (base 50°F): 24.0
| Day | High | Low | Precip | Conditions |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Tue, Jul 7 | 78° | 70° | — | Overcast |
| Wed, Jul 8 | 83° | 66° | — | Overcast |
| Thu, Jul 9 | 83° | 67° | — | Overcast |
| Fri, Jul 10 | 81° | 68° | 0.39 in (56%) | Slight rain showers |
Ohio's grape growers just got a helping hand that could make a significant difference in their vineyards! The Ohio State University (OSU) and the Ohio Grape Committee have launched a new cost-share program to help growers purchase and install on-site weather stations [1]. This is quite a smart move, as consistent weather monitoring is absolutely vital for effective management of plant diseases and insect pests, which can really challenge a harvest.
Imagine having real-time data right from your own vineyard – that’s exactly what this program aims to provide. Having an on-site weather station allows growers to keep a close eye on crucial conditions like temperature, rainfall, and wind speed, giving them the precise information needed to make timely decisions about when to treat plants, irrigate, or protect against adverse conditions. It's a proactive approach that empowers growers to better protect their crops, ultimately leading to healthier grapes and, hopefully, even better wines from the Buckeye State!
*** [1] OSU and Ohio Grape Committee Launch Weather Station Cost-share Program for Ohio Grape Growers — https://u.osu.edu/vegnetnews/2026/07/07/osu-and-ohio-grape-committee-launch-weather-station-cost-share-program-for-ohio-grape-growers
Yesterday's rainfall: 1.34 in
Today's growing degree-days (base 50°F): 24.8
| Day | High | Low | Precip | Conditions |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Mon, Jul 6 | 78° | 72° | — | Overcast |
| Tue, Jul 7 | 79° | 69° | — | Overcast |
| Wed, Jul 8 | 82° | 65° | — | Overcast |
| Thu, Jul 9 | 85° | 68° | 0.04 in (35%) | Thunderstorm |
If you've ever found yourself scratching your head about how to best care for your potted plants, especially when it comes to "flushing," you're not alone. Thankfully, experts are clearing up the confusion surrounding this crucial plant care technique [1]. Flushing isn't about discarding a dying plant, but rather a simple process to keep your healthy greenery thriving by removing accumulated excess salts and other undesirable chemicals from the potting media.
To properly flush a potted plant, simply pour water slowly into the pot until at least half of the pot's volume drains out the bottom. This washes away old, unbalanced nutrients from fertilizers, excess carbonates from hard or alkaline water that can cause a white crust, and even toxins that plants excrete through their roots [1]. If you use a lot of fertilizer, have very hard water, or primarily bottom or wick water your plants (which can lead to salt buildup on the soil surface), you should flush more often. However, if you typically top water your plants with enough excess water draining out each time, you might already be flushing adequately without realizing it [1].
One common misconception is that flushing can harm your plant. The truth, however, is that if a plant appears harmed after flushing, the real issue is often the incorrect potting media, not the flushing itself. A proper, well-draining media (like one with plenty of perlite) allows excess water to run through without oversaturating the roots. And speaking of "overwatering," the myth that giving a plant too much water at one time is harmful is incorrect; the excess simply drains away. It's watering *too often*, preventing the soil from drying out sufficiently between waterings, that truly harms plants [1]. So, next time your potted plants need a refresh, don't hesitate to give them a good flush!
For those dreaming of growing massive, yet delicious and trouble-free tomatoes, The Millennial Gardener has shared his top recommendations from over a decade of experience and more than 200 varieties grown [1]. He notes that large-fruited tomatoes often come with drawbacks like low production, susceptibility to cracking, or a disappointing taste. However, his curated list of six "gigantic" varieties aims to defy these common issues.
These selected tomatoes are celebrated for their "off the charts" production, delivering an abundance of fruit. Beyond sheer size, they are specifically chosen for being exceptionally productive, wonderfully delicious, and remarkably crack-resistant. Furthermore, the plants themselves boast disease resistance, ensuring a healthier and more robust crop. The Millennial Gardener promises these are "nearly perfect-looking" big tomatoes, offering a solution for gardeners seeking both impressive size and high quality in their harvest [1].
Yesterday's rainfall: None
Today's growing degree-days (base 50°F): 24.3
| Day | High | Low | Precip | Conditions |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Sun, Jul 5 | 78° | 70° | 1.21 in (59%) | Violent rain showers |
| Mon, Jul 6 | 79° | 69° | — | Overcast |
| Tue, Jul 7 | 74° | 67° | 0.03 in (17%) | Light drizzle |
| Wed, Jul 8 | 79° | 67° | 0.03 in (6%) | Light drizzle |
Yesterday's rainfall: 0.10 in
Today's growing degree-days (base 50°F): 28.9
| Day | High | Low | Precip | Conditions |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Sat, Jul 4 | 88° | 70° | — | Overcast |
| Sun, Jul 5 | 81° | 69° | 0.76 in (44%) | Heavy rain |
| Mon, Jul 6 | 72° | 64° | 0.52 in (23%) | Thunderstorm |
| Tue, Jul 7 | 76° | 66° | 0.02 in (14%) | Light drizzle |
With a growing interest in self-sufficiency, particularly when it comes to growing our own food, the creator behind "Homegrown Florida" offers a deeply practical guide for anyone considering how to feed their family from their backyard garden. Driven by a childhood history of food insecurity and a current commitment to extensive food preservation, she outlines the 25 essential plants she would choose if suddenly faced with relying solely on her garden for sustenance [1].
Her approach is refreshingly strategic: it’s not about growing favorite foods, but rather selecting crops that provide the fundamental building blocks of a balanced diet. She meticulously breaks her choices into five crucial categories—carbohydrates, fats, protein, sugars, and vitamins—explaining the rationale behind each plant's inclusion. While some selections might seem obvious, others could surprise you, all chosen for their ability to deliver vital calories and nutrients. This comprehensive framework offers valuable insight, regardless of your specific climate, into how to plan a food garden that truly prioritizes nutritional completeness and resilience.
As temperatures climb and summer heatwaves become a regular feature, keeping our green friends thriving is top of mind. GrowVeg shares some essential strategies to help your plants survive and even flourish in scorching conditions [1]. The first, and arguably most critical, step is effective watering: go deep rather than frequent, ideally in the early morning to minimize evaporation. Prioritize vulnerable plants like seedlings and fruiting crops, and consider efficient drip irrigation or soaker hoses. To lock in that precious moisture, a 1-2 inch layer of organic mulch (straw, wood chips, compost) around your plants is a game-changer, keeping roots cool and suppressing weeds. Long-term, enriching your soil with compost and well-rotted manure will improve its water-holding capacity, making plants more resilient to temperature swings.
Shade is another powerful tool. Temporary shade cloth (30-50%) can protect sensitive salad greens and young plants, or you can improvise with old curtains or white sheets. Taller crops like corn or sunflowers can also strategically shade shorter, more delicate neighbors. Container plants are especially susceptible to heat, so group them together, shade the pot sides, or move them to cooler spots during peak heat. Temporary wind screens can also shield young plants from drying winds. Finally, ease off on heavy feeding during extreme heat, and keep up with regular harvesting to reduce plant stress and encourage continued production. Don't forget to keep *yourself* cool and hydrated too!
And speaking of keeping plants happy, if you're a fan of African violets, you might want to check out Garden Fundamentals. They've put together a video dedicated to debunking common myths surrounding African violet care [2]. By relying on insights from commercial growers and scientific principles, they aim to help you avoid frequent mistakes and grow more vibrant blooms. It's a great reminder that understanding the true needs of our specific plants can make all the difference.
It might seem wild to think that simply collecting rainwater could be against the law, but in some places, it’s a very real thing, albeit often misunderstood. "Gardening In Canada" recently delved into this surprising topic, explaining the science and history behind regulations on rainwater harvesting in North America [1].
While many backyard gardeners see their rain barrels as harmless, efficient ways to collect free water, civil engineers and ecologists view every single drop as part of a complex watershed system. Governments are responsible for ensuring public access to water for essential activities, and managing the entire watershed is critical for this. Historically, many of these laws emerged in dry regions to prevent farmers or pioneers from redirecting large amounts of water, and their broad wording often predates modern small-scale collection. This means that while a "little tiny container" might not significantly impact a city's water flow, the foundational laws technically encompass it because they don't specify volume [1].
The good news is that most gardeners aren't getting fined for a few rain barrels. The regulations are typically aimed at large water containment systems that *do* significantly impact natural drainage paths and municipal water management. For instance, a small 50-gallon barrel on a garage roof will quickly overflow back into the system, but a massive underground cistern could "muck up" a city's sewage calculations if not managed [1]. Ironically, rainwater is highly beneficial for gardens, offering a naturally lower pH than tap water (great for counteracting alkaline soil) and containing valuable nutrients [1].
Yesterday's rainfall: None
Today's growing degree-days (base 50°F): 36.1
| Day | High | Low | Precip | Conditions |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Fri, Jul 3 | 95° | 77° | — | Overcast |
| Sat, Jul 4 | 89° | 71° | 0.20 in (63%) | Moderate rain |
| Sun, Jul 5 | 88° | 67° | 0.15 in (73%) | Thunderstorm w/ slight hail |
| Mon, Jul 6 | 82° | 70° | 0.62 in (46%) | Thunderstorm w/ slight hail |
With summer often bringing the threat of devastating heat waves, many gardeners worry about losing their hard work to a sudden spike in temperatures. Fortunately, resources like "The Millennial Gardener" on YouTube are stepping up to offer practical advice for protecting your precious plants. Drawing from his experience in one of the country's hottest and most humid regions, he's become an expert at shielding plants from intense heat, aiming to revolutionize how gardeners approach summer protection.
His latest video, "HEAT WAVE Nightmare: Save Your Garden NOW or You'll Be Sorry!" [1], is designed not just to instruct but to inspire. He emphasizes that with the right techniques, you can cultivate a thriving garden even under challenging conditions, ensuring that one heat wave doesn't undo a season's worth of effort. It’s a timely reminder that a little proactive care and expert guidance can make all the difference in safeguarding your green oasis.
Yesterday's rainfall: None
Today's growing degree-days (base 50°F): 35.2
| Day | High | Low | Precip | Conditions |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Thu, Jul 2 | 95° | 75° | — | Clear sky |
| Fri, Jul 3 | 95° | 76° | — | Thunderstorm |
| Sat, Jul 4 | 89° | 69° | 0.34 in (61%) | Thunderstorm w/ heavy hail |
| Sun, Jul 5 | 81° | 71° | 0.43 in (59%) | Thunderstorm w/ heavy hail |
For those eyeing the latest in indoor gardening tech, there’s a new entrant making waves: Letpot’s two-tier home hydroponic system. The "Garden Fundamentals" channel recently offered a unique first look at its assembly and daily operation [1]. Instead of the host, an experienced gardener with decades under his belt, his assistant and granddaughter, Isabelle—a complete novice to gardening and hydroponics—took the reins for the review. This fresh perspective aims to provide a more relatable assessment for new users, directly addressing how intuitive (or not) the system is for someone just starting out.
The initial evaluation covered everything from unboxing and assembly (which was a bit challenging without a manual, as it was a pre-release model) to planting and preparing the hydroponic solution. They also delved into the functionality of the LetPot mobile app, hinting at the smart features that simplify indoor growing. The promise of a follow-up video to track plant growth and deliver final impressions has us eager to see how this two-tier setup performs in the long run, especially from a beginner's point of view.
Yesterday's rainfall: None
Today's growing degree-days (base 50°F): 36.2
| Day | High | Low | Precip | Conditions |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Wed, Jul 1 | 96° | 76° | — | Thunderstorm |
| Thu, Jul 2 | 96° | 75° | — | Thunderstorm |
| Fri, Jul 3 | 91° | 75° | 0.05 in (42%) | Thunderstorm w/ heavy hail |
| Sat, Jul 4 | 90° | 70° | 0.26 in (43%) | Thunderstorm w/ heavy hail |
It’s July, and for many gardeners, the idea of planting new seeds might seem a bit late in the season. But depending on where you live, this month can actually be a prime time for a new wave of growth, whether you're battling the heat or planning for a cool-weather harvest [1], [2].
If you're gardening in Florida, July is all about embracing the heat. Instead of giving up, Homegrown Florida suggests focusing on crops that truly thrive in the summer sun, like sweet potatoes, long beans, cowpeas, peanuts, ginger, turmeric, okra, roselle, and a variety of tropical greens such as sissoo, Okinawa, and Egyptian spinach. Even some heat-loving squash varieties like Seminole pumpkin and Tahitian melon squash are on the list. For North Florida gardeners, it's also time to start thinking about fall tomato and pepper seeds, and a friendly reminder to pre-order your garlic now [1].
Head much further north to places like Canada, however, and the advice shifts dramatically. Gardening In Canada reminds us that July planting is crucial for a strong fall or even winter harvest, or at the very least, to maintain healthy soil. For quick harvests before the first frost, consider carrots, beets, cilantro, and bok choy. If you're feeling adventurous and want to extend your season deep into winter, crops like broccoli, cauliflower, and certain spinaches can be started now and, remarkably, can even overwinter under snow to be the first greens in spring! To give these cool-season crops the best start, it’s recommended to begin them indoors in seed cells to protect them from any lingering summer heat before transplanting in late August or early September [2].
Even if you're not aiming for a late-season harvest, July is an ideal time to plant cover crops like oats and buckwheat in colder climates. This ensures the soil stays active and healthy, feeding microbes and improving soil structure, long after your main crops are harvested [2].
Goodness, if you thought the Emerald Ash Borer was a thing of the past, think again. This highly destructive pest is still very much active and infesting trees across the region, a persistent threat that continues to impact our landscape [1]. The battle against EAB is far from over, reminding us to remain vigilant about the health of our ash trees.
On a slightly less alarming, but equally curious note, you might be spotting some unusual growths on your Black Walnut trees lately. OSU BYGL reports peculiar "Eriophyid Petiole Galls" appearing on these trees [2]. While these galls might look a bit unsettling – like tiny, deformed growths on the leaf stems – they're actually caused by microscopic mites and are generally considered harmless to the tree's overall health. So, no need to panic if your Black Walnut looks a little "weird" this season!
*** [1] Emerald Ash Borer Still Infesting Trees — https://bygl.osu.edu/node/2655 [2] Weird Eriophyid Petiole Galls on Black Walnut — https://bygl.osu.edu/node/2659
This week, hydroponics enthusiasts have something new to explore with Hoocho's fascinating "NAFAD System" – short for "Not A Flood & Drain." This innovative design isn't a traditional flood and drain, NFT, or Dutch bucket system, but rather a clever hybrid that sits somewhere in between, offering a unique approach to raised media bed hydroponics [1].
Hoocho emphasizes a DIY-friendly build, proudly constructing his grow bed from reclaimed timber, keeping initial costs down. While 3D printed components like specialized drain grates and end pieces are available (and recommended for precision), they aren't strictly necessary, with clever alternatives like chicken wire suggested for those without a printer. The system centers around a long, shallow grow bed, lined with PVC pond liner, into which the growing media – primarily reusable expanded clay balls (LECA) – is placed. A key design element is the strong chemical bond Hoocho achieves between the PETG 3D prints and the PVC liner using PVC glue, creating a robust, waterproof seal for the drainage components [1].
In a testament to real-world testing and improvement, Hoocho even redesigned a crucial drain collection piece after discovering a leak in his initial test run. The improved single-unit print ensures a more reliable, leak-free system. At the other end, a simple 12V DC pump delivers nutrient solution from a 200-liter reservoir, equipped with a float valve for automatic refilling. This NAFAD system offers a fantastic blend of ingenuity, cost-effectiveness, and practical design, making advanced hydroponics accessible for the home grower [1].
Sources: [1] Hoocho — https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gTR84ux77ZE
Yesterday's rainfall: None
Today's growing degree-days (base 50°F): 34.8
| Day | High | Low | Precip | Conditions |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Tue, Jun 30 | 94° | 75° | — | Thunderstorm |
| Wed, Jul 1 | 97° | 76° | — | Thunderstorm |
| Thu, Jul 2 | 92° | 73° | — | Thunderstorm |
| Fri, Jul 3 | 92° | 75° | 0.04 in (34%) | Thunderstorm |
Today, our glance at gardening innovation takes us to the world of precision application, with the Ohio State University's VegNet News highlighting an upcoming "Sprayer Tech 2026 Workshop" [1]. While primarily aimed at commercial operations, the principles discussed here are increasingly relevant to anyone looking to maximize efficiency and minimize environmental impact in their green spaces, from large farms to ambitious home gardens.
The workshop's indoor sessions promise to delve into critical topics like best management strategies for effective pesticide application and crucial techniques for reducing spray drift. This isn't just about getting the job done; it's about doing it smartly, ensuring that treatments land where they're needed most and don't harm surrounding plants or ecosystems. Attendees will learn how to select the optimal sprayer and, specifically, the right nozzles for various tasks, along with the foundational skill of calibrating their equipment for accuracy.
What's particularly exciting and forward-looking are the discussions around variable-rate spraying research and the burgeoning use of drones in agriculture. Variable-rate spraying allows for different amounts of product to be applied across a field based on specific needs mapped by sensors, saving resources and targeting issues precisely. And yes, drones aren't just for aerial photography anymore; they're becoming integral tools for scouting, monitoring, and even precise application in larger garden and farm settings. These advancements signal a future where even small-scale gardening can benefit from intelligent, data-driven approaches, making our efforts more sustainable and productive.
Sources: [1] Sprayer Tech 2026 Workshop — https://u.osu.edu/vegnetnews/2026/06/30/sprayer-tech-2026-workshop
Yesterday's rainfall: None
Today's growing degree-days (base 50°F): 29.4
| Day | High | Low | Precip | Conditions |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Mon, Jun 29 | 92° | 67° | — | Thunderstorm |
| Tue, Jun 30 | 95° | 75° | — | Thunderstorm |
| Wed, Jul 1 | 93° | 74° | — | Thunderstorm |
| Thu, Jul 2 | 93° | 74° | — | Thunderstorm |
While many gardeners might think their major planting efforts are behind them by July, The Millennial Gardener has a friendly reminder: that's exactly when you should be thinking about your next round of seeds! [1] Despite July being the hottest month, bringing intense sun, long days, and peak pest pressure, it's actually a critical period for starting new crops. Ignoring this can lead to your garden "crapping out" later in the season, while strategic July planting ensures "glorious and beautiful" production well into the fall. [1]
This isn't about adding more work to an already busy garden; it's about smart succession planting that keeps your harvest basket full. The Millennial Gardener’s approach helps gardeners extend the life of their productive plots by breaking down a specific July planting schedule tailored to different locations, along with a curated list of seed varieties ideal for a thriving late-summer and fall garden. So, if you're keen to keep fresh produce on your table long after the initial summer flush, July's planting opportunities are definitely worth exploring. [1]
Ever stumbled upon something in your garden that made you do a double-take? The folks at OSU BYGL recently highlighted one such curiosity: "fern-balls" [1]. While the name might conjure images of peculiar plant sports, it actually refers to an intriguing, albeit less common, feature sometimes found on certain fern species. Imagine seeing compact, often spherical, growths on your ferns that don't quite look like new fronds or typical spore cases. These aren't signs of a disease or pest infestation, but rather a fascinating natural development. They are thought to be a form of vegetative reproduction or perhaps galls caused by insects, though the term itself points to a distinct, ball-like structure. If you happen to spot these "fern-balls" in your own yard, rest assured they're usually just a quirky characteristic of nature at work, offering a unique glimpse into the diverse ways plants grow and adapt. It's a fun reminder that even familiar plants like ferns can hold delightful surprises.
### Sources: [1] A Weird Thing: Fern-Balls — OSU BYGL (Buckeye Yard & Garden Line)
Yesterday's rainfall: None
Today's growing degree-days (base 50°F): 23.1
| Day | High | Low | Precip | Conditions |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Sun, Jun 28 | 83° | 63° | — | Overcast |
| Mon, Jun 29 | 86° | 66° | 0.04 in (3%) | Dense drizzle |
| Tue, Jun 30 | 92° | 75° | — | Thunderstorm |
| Wed, Jul 1 | 93° | 74° | — | Thunderstorm |
Ever wondered if you could turn a single grocery store carrot into thousands of future plants? It turns out you absolutely can, and it's a fantastic way to become more self-sufficient in your garden, all while saving money on seeds [1]. The secret lies in understanding that many common root vegetables are biennials, meaning they produce their edible root in the first year and then flower and set seed in their second year [1].
By taking a healthy, well-adapted root vegetable — like a carrot, onion, parsnip, beet, turnip, or rutabaga — and replanting it whole, you're essentially providing it the opportunity to complete its life cycle and produce seeds [1]. This method not only yields an abundance of seeds but also helps you select for plants best suited to your specific climate, as you're saving seeds from individuals that have already thrived [1]. For instance, planting an onion that successfully stored all winter will naturally select for future generations with excellent storage capabilities [1].
While carrots are a great starting point, other root crops also lend themselves to this technique. Parsnip seeds, however, have a short viability, so planting them early for seed collection is key [1]. Beets can be a bit trickier to store and replant successfully, often turning mushy, but it's not impossible [1]. Turnips and rutabagas are highlighted as robust, starchy survival crops that store incredibly well and are very cool-tolerant, making them ideal candidates for this seed-saving method [1]. It's also a good reminder that if a biennial plant flowers or "bolts" in its first year, it's a sign it's not well-adapted to your climate, and those seeds shouldn't be saved [1].
There's nothing quite like the satisfaction of bringing in a garden harvest, and this week, a Florida gardener is celebrating a delightful mix from their backyard bounty [1]. Their harvest basket is brimming with sun-ripened cherry tomatoes, a good haul of sweet Jimmy Nardello peppers—which, despite their appearance, are wonderfully mild—along with a handful of early blackberries, some intriguing jaboticaba fruits, and a scattering of blueberries. It's a testament to the power of diverse planting; as some crops are just getting started and others are winding down for the season, having a variety ensures there's almost always something fresh ready to pick [1]. A particular highlight was an "invincible" tomato plant, truly living up to its name by continuing to produce fruit even after being neglected and showing signs of blossom end rot—a real trooper! With such a generous supply of tomatoes, the plan is to pair them with fresh lettuce from a hydroponic system for a delicious week of homemade salads [1].
Yesterday's rainfall: None
Today's growing degree-days (base 50°F): 18.9
| Day | High | Low | Precip | Conditions |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Sat, Jun 27 | 75° | 63° | 0.02 in (5%) | Light drizzle |
| Sun, Jun 28 | 81° | 63° | — | Overcast |
| Mon, Jun 29 | 87° | 65° | 0.00 in (4%) | Thunderstorm |
| Tue, Jun 30 | 92° | 74° | — | Thunderstorm |
If you're new to gardening, or just looking to improve your green thumb, it turns out many common frustrations can be easily avoided! After 11 years of personal experience, the host of Homegrown Florida has distilled the "8 Things New Gardeners Get Wrong" [1]. Her goal is to save beginners from discouragement by addressing fundamental issues like growing the wrong crops for your climate, tackling soil fertility problems, and using specific planting techniques to ensure vegetables thrive from seed to harvest. Learning from these insights can be a game-changer for your garden's health and your harvest quality.
And for those wondering if it's too late to start sowing in mid-summer, good news! GrowVeg reveals that July is, in fact, a crucial time to plant specific crops to ensure a continuous harvest well into autumn and even winter [2]. Far from a period to relax from sowing, taking action now prevents your garden from "running out of steam" and maximizes productivity. They highlight seven specific seeds that are fast-growing, productive, and in some cases, even thrive better when sown in July than in spring—like the "elegant" bulb or Florence fennel. So whether you're fixing past errors or looking to keep your garden vibrant and productive all season long, there's plenty of valuable advice to cultivate your success.
Imagine stepping into your garden at night and seeing your petunias softly glowing! That’s the reality for some thanks to the "Firefly Petunia," a genetically engineered plant that emits its own light [1]. This isn’t a trick of light or a chemical spray; the petunia actually glows 24/7 (more noticeably in the dark, of course) due to a bioluminescent gene borrowed from mushrooms, making it a transgenic organism. Its creators assure us it's safe, doesn't spread disease, and isn't radioactive [1].
Yet, while Americans can readily buy these luminous flowers, Canadians currently can’t. It’s a curious situation, not because Canada has deemed the Firefly Petunia dangerous, but because it simply hasn't completed the country's much more rigorous approval process for genetically modified organisms [1]. Canadian regulators require extensive trials—potentially 3 to 5 years—to thoroughly assess its environmental impact, potential for weediness, gene flow, and effects on local ecosystems and agriculture. This approach stands in contrast to the US, where it was quickly approved. The irony, as one Canadian gardening expert notes, is that many known noxious weeds are freely available in Canada, while this seemingly benign, glowing petunia awaits its long-term review, suggesting it's more about meticulous regulatory process than inherent risk [1].
Yesterday's rainfall: None
Today's growing degree-days (base 50°F): 21.5
| Day | High | Low | Precip | Conditions |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Thu, Jun 25 | 80° | 63° | — | Overcast |
| Fri, Jun 26 | 77° | 59° | 0.13 in (73%) | Moderate rain |
| Sat, Jun 27 | 75° | 62° | 0.01 in (73%) | Light drizzle |
| Sun, Jun 28 | 79° | 60° | — | Overcast |
After what felt like an endless stretch of drought for many gardeners, some areas are now seeing a surprising amount of heavy rain. And while rain is generally welcome, it turns out too much of a good thing can also cause some serious headaches for your vegetable patch! According to soil science expert Ashley from Gardening In Canada, excessive rainfall can lead to a host of problems [1].
One of the biggest issues is a lack of oxygen in the soil [1]. When rain saturates the ground, especially in compacted or clay-heavy soils, it fills up all the pore spaces, leaving no room for air. This can cause leaves to yellow, wilt, curl, and even lead to lost blooms, as plants literally can't breathe. Heavy rain also rapidly leaches away vital nutrients like nitrogen, sulfur, and boron, particularly in sandy soils or container gardens, making it crucial to consider supplementing these [1].
Beyond the soil, excessive moisture creates prime conditions for disease spread, as fungal spores and bacteria splash from the ground onto leaves, which then stay wet for extended periods. You might also notice less fruit and vegetable production due to cooler temperatures, cloud cover, and pollinators being less active in wet, windy weather. Lastly, try to resist the urge to jump into a sodden garden; walking on wet soil can cause severe compaction, damaging its structure and making it harder for roots to grow and thrive [1].
So, what's a gardener to do? Ashley suggests aerating your soil if needed, pulling back mulch that might be contributing to waterlogging, and promptly addressing any signs of disease. If pollinators are scarce, consider giving your plants a little hand-pollination. And when the rains finally stop, let the soil dry out before venturing in, or use boards to distribute your weight to prevent compaction [1].
It's always exciting to see how clever gardeners innovate, and today Hoocho shared a fantastic new development for his popular Rain Gutter Grow System (RGS) [1]. He's unveiled a new 3D-printable component, the "Hooch Multi-Base," designed to make hydroponic gardening even more accessible and versatile. This ingenious print expands the RGS's capacity to accommodate almost any container you might have on hand—think cheap grow bags, standard grower's pots, or various buckets—offering a highly cost-effective and adaptable solution for growing a wide array of plants.
The "Hooch Multi-Base" comes in two primary styles: one for standard round PVC pipes and another as a retrofit for existing square pipe systems, making it incredibly easy for anyone with a previous setup to upgrade. Beyond that, the design offers further customization, allowing users to print a "blank slate" base to add specific adapters later, or choose a "hardwired" version with net cups or grow spikes already integrated. This flexibility means you can tailor the feeding method to your exact needs, whether you're working with sturdy buckets or pliable grow bags. Hoocho even walks us through his greenhouse reset, showing how he preps the RGS channels with custom 3D-printed end caps and a float valve to regulate the nutrient solution, setting the stage for this exciting new multi-container system.
Yesterday's rainfall: None
Today's growing degree-days (base 50°F): 17.0
| Day | High | Low | Precip | Conditions |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Wed, Jun 24 | 78° | 56° | — | Fog |
| Thu, Jun 25 | 78° | 63° | 0.17 in (58%) | Slight rain |
| Fri, Jun 26 | 68° | 62° | 0.27 in (41%) | Moderate rain |
| Sat, Jun 27 | 76° | 61° | — | Overcast |
Yesterday's rainfall: None
Today's growing degree-days (base 50°F): 15.3
| Day | High | Low | Precip | Conditions |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Sun, Jun 21 | 75° | 55° | — | Overcast |
| Mon, Jun 22 | 68° | 61° | 0.46 in (73%) | Heavy rain |
| Tue, Jun 23 | 68° | 55° | — | Overcast |
| Wed, Jun 24 | 74° | 54° | — | Overcast |
If you've ever wondered about turning your furry friend's "deposits" into garden gold, you're not alone. Composting dog poop is a surprisingly controversial topic among gardeners, often prompting strong opinions on both sides [1]. While some see it as free fertilizer, others warn it should never touch a compost pile.
The science behind it explains the fuss: dog waste is fundamentally different from the manure of herbivores like cows or rabbits. As omnivores, dogs, much like humans or pigs, can carry pathogens such as E. coli, Salmonella, and roundworms. These nasty bits are quite comfortable surviving in soil, making them a persistent threat if not properly neutralized [1].
The biggest mistake gardeners make, according to one soil scientist, is assuming that simply because dog waste decomposes, it's safe. While it will break down, regular home composting often doesn't generate the sustained, prolonged, high heat required to kill these dangerous pathogens. This is especially true in colder climates, making safe dog waste composting a challenging feat for the average backyard setup [1].
So, can you compost it? Technically, yes, but with a *huge* asterisk. For most home gardeners, the expert recommendation is to steer clear. However, if you're determined and meticulous, it's suggested to run two entirely separate composting systems: one dedicated solely to dog waste and another for your regular garden scraps. Critically, any compost produced from dog waste should *only* ever be used on perennial or ornamental gardens—never on anything you plan to eat, like vegetables [1]. This ensures that potential pathogens don't make their way to your dinner plate. Beyond composting, it's also a good reminder to pick up dog waste from your yard, as leaving it can lead to nutrient runoff and contribute to disease and pest issues in your garden [1].
***
Source Footnote List: [1] "Can You Compost Dog Poop?" — Gardening In Canada - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GDLvzQGbqBs
Yesterday's rainfall: None
Today's growing degree-days (base 50°F): 16.3
| Day | High | Low | Precip | Conditions |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Sat, Jun 20 | 77° | 56° | — | Overcast |
| Sun, Jun 21 | 74° | 56° | 0.18 in (51%) | Moderate rain |
| Mon, Jun 22 | 66° | 55° | 1.54 in (92%) | Moderate rain showers |
| Tue, Jun 23 | 68° | 55° | — | Overcast |
With hotter summers becoming the norm, finding sustainable ways to keep our gardens hydrated is more crucial than ever. A recent GrowVeg video dives deep into the art of rainwater harvesting, making a compelling case for why nature's own supply trumps treated tap water for your plants [1].
The video emphasizes that rainwater, naturally free of chemicals like chlorine and at a more consistent temperature, is superior for plant health compared to municipal water. It's also a smart way to save money and reduce your environmental footprint, especially as water restrictions become more common. To help gardeners harness this precious resource, GrowVeg demonstrates two different projects for automatically collecting rainwater, offering practical steps to ensure your garden thrives even when the temperatures soar and natural rainfall is scarce [1].
If you've ever battled garden pests, you know the frustration of trying to achieve a completely pest-free zone. However, a candid insight from "Homegrown Florida" offers a refreshing perspective that many experienced gardeners learn after years of trial and error: true pest management isn't about eradication, but rather about understanding which pests genuinely require intervention and when to trust nature to do its part [1].
The creator, a seasoned gardener with a decade of experience in Florida – often dubbed the "pest capital of the United States" – openly admits there's no magic spray or one-size-fits-all solution. Instead, the focus shifts to prevention, nurturing beneficial insects, and striking a "middle ground" between pure Integrative Pest Management (IPM) and aggressive chemical approaches. It's about honesty regarding the pros and cons of various methods, and recognizing that a truly successful garden embraces a certain level of natural activity, stepping in only when a specific pest threatens to overwhelm your plants [1].
Yesterday's rainfall: 0.46 in
Today's growing degree-days (base 50°F): 14.1
| Day | High | Low | Precip | Conditions |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Fri, Jun 19 | 73° | 56° | — | Mainly clear |
| Sat, Jun 20 | 73° | 55° | — | Overcast |
| Sun, Jun 21 | 70° | 54° | 0.41 in (73%) | Moderate rain |
| Mon, Jun 22 | 69° | 56° | 0.43 in (92%) | Moderate rain |
Gardeners are always on the lookout for effective ways to protect their hard-earned harvests, and this week brings some keen insights into tackling common pests. Leading the charge is an organic "magic spray" concoction, heralded by The Millennial Gardener as a game-changer for fending off notorious destroyers like cucumber beetles and squash bugs, which are capable of wiping out entire plants [1].
The secret weapon? A powerful duo of Spinosad and Surround WP. Spinosad is a broad-spectrum organic insecticide derived from natural bacteria. When pests like beetles, caterpillars, and borers munch on leaves treated with Spinosad, they ingest the bacteria, leading to their demise within about 24 hours. It's not a contact killer, so seeing pests on your plants the day after spraying means it's working as intended [1].
Its partner, Surround WP, isn't an insecticide at all, but a "crop protectant" made from micronized kaolin clay. When sprayed, it coats plants with a fine, chalky film, making them much less appealing for insects to chew on. As a bonus, it also provides UV protection, shielding fruits and leaves from sun scald [1].
The "magic" truly happens when these two are combined. Surround WP acts as both an emulsifier and a surfactant, ensuring the Spinosad mixture applies evenly and sticks better to plants. This enhanced "staying power" is crucial for organic sprays, as the clay forms a barrier that holds the Spinosad bacteria in place, extending its effectiveness. Plus, the clay itself deters pests, meaning those that *do* decide to chew will ingest the Spinosad for enhanced potency. Regular, perhaps weekly, application is key, especially after heavy rain [1].
Meanwhile, Ohio State University's BYGL reminds us to keep an eye out for other emerging pests, highlighting the Hickory Tussock (Tiger) Moth, a common sight as summer progresses [2]. With these tips, hopefully, your garden can thrive and resist the many challenges nature throws its way!
Source Footnote List: [1] The Millennial Gardener — https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gU-KQ0PKnDw [2] OSU BYGL (Buckeye Yard & Garden Line) — https://bygl.osu.edu/node/2656
If you've ever felt a pang of guilt looking at a droopy, forlorn African violet, help is at hand! Over at Garden Fundamentals, they've shared a truly effective method for bringing these beloved houseplants back from the brink [1]. The key, as they explain, often lies in addressing common but easily overlooked issues.
Their rescue mission begins with a thorough assessment. Many neglected violets suffer from improper potting – think decorative pots without drainage holes, or "soil" that's completely dried out, sometimes even topped with bark or filled with useless stones for drainage [1]. The first step is to gently remove any dead or severely drooping outer leaves and carefully extract the plant from its current pot, shaking off the old, bone-dry potting mix. Next, the root ball is trimmed to a size appropriate for the plant's remaining foliage, preparing it for rehydration.
The real "trick" involves a good soak and a humidity dome. After rehydrating the plant's root ball for about 20 minutes and repotting it in fresh, appropriate soil, the entire potted plant is placed inside a clear plastic bag, sealed to create a 100% humidity environment. This crucial step prevents further dehydration and encourages new root growth, especially vital for severely stressed plants. After about ten days in its humid haven, the plant is slowly acclimatized to normal household conditions by gradually opening and rolling down the bag over about a week. With a little more light, these once-sad violets can spring back to life, often flowering beautifully as a testament to their resilience and your newfound care [1].
Ever wonder if those widely shared gardening "hacks" truly hold up to scientific scrutiny? A recent dive into gardening science by *Gardening In Canada* encourages us to question common wisdom and become our own garden scientists [1].
One popular belief is that removing flower clusters from young plants during transplanting helps them recover from shock, allowing them to focus energy on root development. While this sounds logical, research suggests that flower removal makes little to no difference in recovery, as flowers don't consume significant energy compared to other plant functions. In fact, removing them, especially in colder climates, can actually delay your harvest as the plant needs to form new flowers before producing fruit [1].
Another long-standing debate centers on whether to avoid getting leaves wet when watering to prevent disease. The scientific truth is that water doesn't *create* disease; pathogens do. However, water can facilitate the spread of spores and help pathogens survive, particularly through soil splash-back. Overhead watering is generally fine if you ensure good airflow, plenty of sunshine, avoid watering at night, and are confident there are no overwintering disease issues in your soil. Proper spacing, pruning, and mulching can further mitigate risks by preventing soil-borne pathogens from reaching leaves [1].
Finally, the idea of waiting for full ripeness on the plant for optimal flavor and nutrition also has its nuances. For tomatoes, harvesting at the "breaker stage" (when they just begin to change color) allows them to ripen perfectly off the vine, often with the same flavor and nutritional value, while avoiding common issues like cracking and pest predation. Peppers, however, do see an increase in Vitamin C and antioxidants as they fully ripen on the plant, though waiting can make them spicier and reduce the plant's overall yield by preventing further flowering. For plants like peas and beans, harvesting them younger can even lead to multiple successive harvests from the same plant [1].
The takeaway? Don't be afraid to experiment and observe in your own garden. Science often offers a more nuanced view than traditional advice, helping us garden smarter and more effectively [1].
Yesterday's rainfall: 0.26 in
Today's growing degree-days (base 50°F): 17.3
| Day | High | Low | Precip | Conditions |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Thu, Jun 18 | 73° | 62° | 0.46 in (73%) | Heavy rain |
| Fri, Jun 19 | 71° | 56° | 0.02 in (7%) | Light drizzle |
| Sat, Jun 20 | 72° | 51° | 0.09 in (34%) | Light drizzle |
| Sun, Jun 21 | 70° | 52° | 0.17 in (54%) | Dense drizzle |
If you find yourself constantly battling weeds, a soil scientist and experienced gardener has some potentially liberating news: the secret to a weed-free garden might not be constant pulling, but rather changing your approach entirely. This expert suggests that gardeners who weed *least* often have the cleanest gardens, thanks to a strategic, science-backed method [1].
The core idea revolves around understanding the "critical weed-free period." Research shows that the first three to six weeks after a plant is outdoors are the most crucial for its development and yield. Weeds compete aggressively for vital resources like light, water, nutrients, and root space during this time. For instance, if young plants don't get enough calcium early on due to weed competition, they can develop issues like blossom end rot later, even if nutrients are abundant in adulthood. The impact of weeds also depends on factors like their density, species, and the timing relative to your crop's growth stage [1].
So, what's the secret to weeding only once? The advice is to prioritize weeding areas with freshly transplanted or seeded crops. In the early season (like June), thoroughly hoe between your plants to remove all weeds. *After* this initial, comprehensive clean-up, apply a thick, healthy layer of mulch. This combination ensures your young plants get a strong, competition-free start, and the mulch then suppresses future weed growth, dramatically reducing the need for weeding for the rest of the season [1].
Yesterday's rainfall: None
Today's growing degree-days (base 50°F): 16.7
| Day | High | Low | Precip | Conditions |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Wed, Jun 17 | 77° | 57° | 0.22 in (74%) | Moderate rain |
| Thu, Jun 18 | 70° | 59° | 0.13 in (51%) | Moderate rain |
| Fri, Jun 19 | 70° | 51° | 0.01 in (7%) | Light drizzle |
| Sat, Jun 20 | 74° | 49° | 0.04 in (14%) | Moderate drizzle |
For those interested in the future of local agriculture and resilient food systems, a valuable "Farminar" is coming up. On Thursday, June 25, 2026, from 6:00 p.m. to 8:00 p.m., Athens area farmer Lindsay Klaunig will host an event at Trouvaille Farm focusing on regionally adapted seed work [1]. This isn't just about planting seeds; it's about cultivating varieties that thrive in specific local conditions, a crucial step for sustainable farming, especially as climates shift.
Klaunig, who has conducted extensive research at Trouvaille Farm, will share her findings and facilitate a discussion. The "Farminar" is designed to be a collaborative space, inviting not only fellow farmers—from seasoned veterans to those just starting out—but also educators, academic researchers, and students. It's a fantastic opportunity to delve into the practicalities and science behind developing seeds that are perfectly suited to our region, fostering stronger, more robust local food economies. If you're passionate about where your food comes from and how we can make farming more sustainable, this sounds like a conversation worth joining.
Yesterday's rainfall: 0.22 in
Today's growing degree-days (base 50°F): 15.0
| Day | High | Low | Precip | Conditions |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Tue, Jun 16 | 75° | 55° | — | Fog |
| Wed, Jun 17 | 74° | 55° | 0.09 in (94%) | Moderate drizzle |
| Thu, Jun 18 | 70° | 57° | 1.66 in (94%) | Heavy rain |
| Fri, Jun 19 | 70° | 52° | 0.03 in (12%) | Light drizzle |
Yesterday's rainfall: 0.47 in
Today's growing degree-days (base 50°F): 12.5
| Day | High | Low | Precip | Conditions |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Mon, Jun 15 | 68° | 57° | 0.22 in (26%) | Moderate rain |
| Tue, Jun 16 | 76° | 55° | — | Overcast |
| Wed, Jun 17 | 73° | 54° | 0.30 in (73%) | Moderate rain showers |
| Thu, Jun 18 | 73° | 57° | 1.22 in (88%) | Thunderstorm |
If you've ever found your garden thriving in late spring only to look "beat up and haggard" by mid-summer, you're not alone. The intense summer heat often leads to gardener burnout, resulting in inconsistent watering and fertilizing – a problem that causes plants to struggle and decline [1]. Fortunately, there's a clever way to ensure your garden gets the nutrients it needs, even when you're busy or simply want a break: garden automation.
The Millennial Gardener highlights "fertigation" – the process of fertilizing through irrigation – as a game-changer for creating a highly productive, low-maintenance vegetable garden. The core idea is to automate both watering and feeding using a simple fertilizer injector combined with a faucet timer [1]. This system ensures your plants receive a steady, consistent supply of nutrients, silently working for your garden even when you're not.
To set up this automated system, you'll need an existing irrigation setup (which the gardener assures is "really easy" to install), a fertilizer injector, and a pressure regulator valve if you're using drip irrigation. The system works best with water-soluble fertilizers, offering options for both organic gardeners (like fish fertilizer and Azamite for trace minerals) and those who prefer synthetic blends (such as Jacks 20-20-20 or Miracle Grow). By blending your chosen fertilizers, you can create a custom nutrient mix that is automatically delivered to every plant, promising more production with significantly less manual work [1].
Yesterday's rainfall: None
Today's growing degree-days (base 50°F): 23.5
| Day | High | Low | Precip | Conditions |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Sun, Jun 14 | 84° | 63° | 0.48 in (80%) | Moderate rain |
| Mon, Jun 15 | 68° | 54° | — | Overcast |
| Tue, Jun 16 | 72° | 55° | 0.15 in (44%) | Slight rain showers |
| Wed, Jun 17 | 70° | 57° | 0.23 in (62%) | Moderate rain showers |
If you've ever stared at a seed catalog feeling equal parts excited and overwhelmed, a garden subscription box might be exactly the nudge you need. The folks at Homegrown Florida recently cracked open their latest delivery from GrowHoss — specifically the "Small Sprouts" monthly box — and it's a charming reminder that gardening doesn't have to start with a grand plan [1].
This month's theme was herbs, and the box leaned into it fully: seed discs for chives, thyme, oregano, parsley, cilantro, and basil arrived alongside self-watering pots, a seed-starting mix, chalk plant tags, and a marker. But what makes the subscription feel genuinely thoughtful rather than just a bag of seeds is the included booklet — a monthly guide that covers what you're growing, how to grow it, and what to *do* with it once it's ready. This month featured a chimichurri sauce recipe, which is a lovely way to close the loop between garden and kitchen.
The seed discs were a first-time discovery even for the host, and they lived up to the novelty: just press into moistened soil and water in. Genuinely hard to mess up. That ease of entry is really the box's strongest selling point — it lowers the barrier for newer gardeners while still keeping things interesting for more experienced growers who just want something fresh to try each month.
If you're looking for a low-commitment way to expand what you're growing — especially herbs, which reward you quickly — this is a fun option worth exploring.
If you've spent years diligently pinching off tomato suckers in pursuit of a bigger, better harvest, prepare for a fascinating paradigm shift! New research suggests that for most home gardeners, this long-held advice might actually be counterproductive [1].
The common wisdom has been that removing these side shoots, or "suckers," diverts the plant's energy into producing larger, higher-quality fruit on the main stem. However, a soil scientist from Gardening In Canada explains that this understanding misrepresents how plants operate. Tomatoes aren't working from a finite energy "savings account"; they're more like active solar panels, constantly generating energy through photosynthesis. Removing suckers means removing additional "solar panels" and, crucially, potential sites for more flowers and fruit [1].
So, where did this ubiquitous pruning advice come from? It largely originated from commercial farming, where growers have very specific goals: maximizing yield per square foot, ensuring uniform fruit size for packaging, and achieving quick, timed harvests to meet contracts. For a home gardener, who generally prioritizes overall abundance and doesn't mind a wonky-shaped tomato, these commercial drivers don't typically apply [1].
Does that mean you should *never* remove a sucker? Not necessarily. It's all about context! Strategic pruning can still make sense if you're entering a giant tomato competition (aiming for one massive fruit), or if you're battling disease or pest pressure due to poor airflow from overly dense foliage. Pruning might also be beneficial when growing in a greenhouse, in containers, or if your plants are simply too tightly packed, leading to competition for light, water, and nutrients [1]. The key, then, is to understand *why* you might prune, rather than just doing it out of habit.
Yesterday's rainfall: None
Today's growing degree-days (base 50°F): 23.6
| Day | High | Low | Precip | Conditions |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Sat, Jun 13 | 86° | 62° | — | Overcast |
| Sun, Jun 14 | 79° | 62° | 0.33 in (80%) | Heavy rain |
| Mon, Jun 15 | 72° | 53° | 0.03 in (18%) | Slight rain |
| Tue, Jun 16 | 73° | 54° | 0.03 in (28%) | Light drizzle |
If you've ever brought home a beautiful, bushy basil plant from the supermarket only to watch it mysteriously wither and die a few days later, you're certainly not alone—and it turns out, it's not your fault! As GrowVeg reveals, those lush pots of herbs are actually designed for a quick sale, not long-term survival [1].
The secret is that what looks like one healthy plant is, in fact, dozens of tiny seedlings crammed "shoulder to shoulder" into a single small pot. This intense overcrowding leads to fierce competition for light, water, and nutrients, quickly exhausting the limited resources available. Commercial growers pack them this way to make the pots look appealing and full for immediate purchase, prioritizing rapid turnover over the plant's future health. Once these heavily cultivated plants leave their optimal greenhouse environment and enter your home, they're simply too stressed and overcrowded to cope [1].
The good news? You can absolutely rescue these seemingly doomed herbs and turn them into multiple thriving plants! GrowVeg demonstrates a simple method: gently remove the entire clump from its pot and carefully tease apart the individual seedlings. Don't worry if a few roots snap – basil is surprisingly robust. From a single supermarket pot, you can often separate 10-15 viable seedlings! Repot each individual seedling into its own pot, using a light, airy, well-draining potting mix (a bit of perlite helps basil in particular). Give them a good watering to settle the soil, and within a few days, you'll have a small army of happy basil plants ready to provide fresh pickings for months to come [1].
Sources: [1] GrowVeg — "The Real Reason Supermarket Basil Always Dies" — https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=96XcfUnan90
It seems one gardener's best-laid plans for 2026 have already gone deliciously awry! The creator behind Homegrown Florida candidly admitted to breaking her New Year's resolution to focus solely on existing fruit trees. Despite her initial resolve to maximize current production, the allure of expansion proved too strong, and she's back to growing her backyard orchard [1]. This time around, she's not just adding new trees but also sharing her revised approach to planting and general gardening tips. For those looking to get their hands dirty, her latest video even walks viewers through the process of planting a fruit tree, offering insights on how she's doing things differently in this new wave of garden expansion [1].
Yesterday's rainfall: None
Today's growing degree-days (base 50°F): 22.3
| Day | High | Low | Precip | Conditions |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Fri, Jun 12 | 78° | 67° | 0.00 in (30%) | Light drizzle |
| Sat, Jun 13 | 87° | 61° | — | Overcast |
| Sun, Jun 14 | 72° | 59° | 0.46 in (87%) | Violent rain showers |
| Mon, Jun 15 | 69° | 50° | — | Overcast |
If you're looking to boost your garden's output this season, we've got a couple of fresh tips! First off, for those struggling with cucumber production, The Millennial Gardener reveals that growing these common veggies can be surprisingly tricky, yet incredibly rewarding once you know the secrets [1]. After a decade of experience, he emphasizes one primary reason for low yield: not picking cucumbers often enough. The plants are designed to complete their life cycle once they set seed, so frequent harvesting actually encourages them to produce more fruit for an "exploding" harvest all summer long [1].
Meanwhile, a commonly shared tomato "hack" is being called out as potentially counterproductive for home growers. Gardening In Canada highlights that the widespread advice to prune off tomato "suckers" (new shoots that emerge between the main stem and a leaf branch) is largely aimed at commercial growers [2]. These big farms prune suckers to achieve uniform fruit size and appearance for grocery store shelves. However, for us home gardeners who prioritize *volume* over perfect uniformity, leaving those suckers can actually be beneficial! They eventually produce flowers and fruit, often earlier in the season than the plant's main stem [2]. While it's still wise to prune any lower leaves touching the ground to prevent disease and improve airflow, you might want to reconsider removing those suckers if your goal is a metric buttload of tomatoes. Give it a shot on a few plants and see if you notice a difference [2]!
As we continue through spring, it's a good time to be extra vigilant about our plants, especially with the fluctuating weather. If you're a fruit grower, watch out for bacterial diseases, which can thrive in wet spring conditions, whether it's cool or warm [1]. Ohio State University experts note that rain, prolonged leaf wetness, frost damage, wind, and plant wounds can all provide openings for bacteria to spread and infect your fruit crops [1].
Beyond disease, many gardeners face the heartbreaking sight of healthy transplants suddenly wilting or dying after being moved to their outdoor beds. It turns out, "transplant shock" isn't just one thing, but rather a host of factors that can lead to a plant's demise [2]. A major culprit is damage or drying of the microscopic root hairs that absorb water and nutrients, which can happen during handling or if roots are exposed to air for too long [2].
Temperature shock is another subtle but detrimental issue, particularly in cooler climates. Plants grown in warm indoor environments struggle when exposed to significantly lower outdoor nighttime temperatures or even daytime highs [2]. Similarly, the intense sunlight outdoors can "sunburn" indoor-grown plants, which have thinner leaves and less protective wax [2]. To give your new plants the best start, consider hardening them off gradually to outdoor conditions, protecting roots during transplanting, and being mindful of planting depth and matching soil textures between the pot and the garden bed [2].
For those in the agricultural world, there's an important date to keep in mind: the 2026 Manure Science Review. This one-day educational event, set to take place at Homan, Inc. in Maria Stein, Ohio, is poised to be a key gathering for agricultural professionals, producers, and industry experts [1]. It promises to cover the very latest research, technologies, and best practices essential for effective manure management and safeguarding water quality [1].
In our ongoing conversation about soil and nutrient management, the handling of manure plays an absolutely critical role. It’s far more than just a byproduct; it’s a valuable resource that, when managed correctly, can significantly enhance soil fertility and structure, reducing the need for synthetic fertilizers. However, improper management can lead to nutrient leaching, greenhouse gas emissions, and water pollution. That's why events like the Manure Science Review are so vital. They provide a platform to explore innovative approaches, from optimizing application rates and timing to implementing advanced treatment technologies. For anyone looking to improve sustainability, nutrient cycling efficiency, and environmental compliance on their farm or within their practice, this review will offer actionable insights and foster a deeper understanding of responsible resource stewardship.
Yesterday's rainfall: 1.00 in
Today's growing degree-days (base 50°F): 27.5
| Day | High | Low | Precip | Conditions |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Thu, Jun 11 | 83° | 72° | — | Overcast |
| Fri, Jun 12 | 77° | 66° | 0.03 in (22%) | Moderate drizzle |
| Sat, Jun 13 | 79° | 58° | — | Overcast |
| Sun, Jun 14 | 72° | 57° | 0.06 in (72%) | Moderate drizzle |
If you've got old or unwanted pesticides taking up space in your barn or storage shed, Ohio farmers have a timely opportunity to clear them out responsibly this summer. The Ohio Department of Agriculture is sponsoring three free farm pesticide disposal collection events across the state, with stops in Athens, Crawford, and Miami counties beginning August 3, 2026 [1].
These events are a genuinely useful resource — improper pesticide storage and disposal can pose real risks to soil, water, and human health, and the cost of professional chemical disposal can otherwise be a barrier for small and mid-sized farm operations. Events like these take that burden off individual growers while keeping hazardous materials out of landfills and waterways.
If you farm in or near any of those three counties, it's worth marking your calendar and checking the ODA's guidance on what materials are accepted and how to prepare them for drop-off. Participation is typically straightforward, but having containers properly labeled and secured for transport is always good practice. Spreading the word to neighboring farmers who might not be plugged into extension networks is a small gesture that can make a real difference in community-wide environmental stewardship.
Big news for our green-thumbed professionals and enthusiasts alike! The dates and location for the Tri-State Green Industry Conference in 2027 have just been announced, giving everyone plenty of time to mark their calendars [1]. This is a cornerstone event for anyone in landscaping, horticulture, arboriculture, or managing a garden center across Ohio, Indiana, and Kentucky.
Scheduled for February 2-4, 2027, the conference will be held at the Duke Energy Convention Center in Cincinnati. What makes this event particularly significant is its backing: it's a collaborative effort organized by the Extensions of Ohio State University, Purdue University, and the University of Kentucky. This strong academic partnership ensures attendees will benefit from top-tier, research-backed educational sessions, covering everything from cutting-edge plant health management to sustainable design principles and innovative business strategies. Beyond the informative talks, it's a prime opportunity for industry professionals to network, exchange ideas, and explore the latest products and technologies showcased at the trade show. Announcing it so far in advance truly highlights the importance of this annual gathering for keeping the regional green industry vibrant and current.
If you're dreaming of a bountiful tomato harvest this year, "Gardening In Canada" has some golden advice beyond just the right pot. Following up on a previous video where he showcased his "healthiest tomato" ever, focusing then on optimal container choices, he's now delving into the other critical factors that contributed to the remarkable health and vigor of his prize plant, affectionately dubbed "this bad boy." This time, the focus is squarely on environmental conditions and nutrition: getting the temperatures just right, ensuring adequate lighting, providing the correct fertilizer, and cultivating ideal soil conditions are paramount for robust growth [1].
Beyond the hands-on tips, the host also highlighted some useful tools he's involved with. He helped design a plant sensor, which could be a game-changer for monitoring those crucial environmental factors like soil moisture and temperature, allowing for more precise care. For those who like to plan their garden meticulously, he also shared a 2024 Garden Planner, perfect for organizing your planting schedule, tracking progress, and noting what worked best each season [1]. These resources aim to equip home gardeners with both the knowledge and the gadgets to achieve their best harvest yet.
Yesterday's rainfall: None
Today's growing degree-days (base 50°F): 29.5
| Day | High | Low | Precip | Conditions |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Wed, Jun 10 | 88° | 71° | 0.83 in (56%) | Thunderstorm |
| Thu, Jun 11 | 86° | 70° | 0.71 in (33%) | Violent rain showers |
| Fri, Jun 12 | 76° | 65° | 0.03 in (40%) | Light drizzle |
| Sat, Jun 13 | 79° | 58° | — | Overcast |
For those in the Greater Dayton area keen on keeping their gardens vibrant, a significant event is on the horizon. This coming Monday, the OSU BYGL (Buckeye Yard & Garden Line) is hosting a "Greater Dayton Diagnostic Walkabout" [1]. This isn't just a casual stroll; these walkabouts are invaluable opportunities for gardeners to get direct, expert insights into the health of their plants. Think of it as a mobile plant clinic, bringing university extension expertise right to the community. If you've ever puzzled over a wilting leaf, a suspicious spot, or an uninvited pest, this is your chance to bring samples or describe symptoms to horticultural professionals who can help diagnose the issue.
These events are particularly fantastic for community learning, offering practical advice tailored to local conditions. The Ohio State University Extension, through initiatives like BYGL, provides research-backed information, making these walkabouts a trusted source for tackling common plant ailments. Identifying problems early is crucial, as it can prevent the spread of diseases or pests, save struggling plants, and ultimately lead to a more successful and beautiful garden. It's a proactive approach to plant health, empowering garden enthusiasts with the tools and knowledge to keep our green spaces thriving.
It sounds like quite the undertaking in the garden this week, especially in Florida's intense heat! Our friend from Homegrown Florida was busy salvaging a large peach harvest, as the scorching temperatures were causing the fruit to drop prematurely and attract pests [1]. This immediate, full harvest was crucial to prevent significant losses, as the softer peaches only last a few days on the counter.
For long-term preservation, she's switched to freeze-drying this year, aiming for shelf-stable peaches that can last up to 30 years [1]. This is a strategic shift from canning, which she found didn't lead to as much consumption in the past. Beyond peaches, she also managed to gather a handful of plums (despite a previous nutrition issue now being treated), along with onions, carrots, and potatoes, all destined for a hearty pot roast dinner.
The video paints a vivid picture of the daily hustle, from tackling pest infestations like "leafoot bugs" and scarab beetles, to diligently watering pots twice a week in the summer, and even releasing a familiar snake from a rat trap! It’s a real testament to the effort involved in growing your own food, especially when battling challenging conditions like Florida's intense heat and garden pests. She even promotes her new book, *The Florida Fruit Garden*, offering advice for other local growers [1].
Yesterday's rainfall: None
Today's growing degree-days (base 50°F): 30.1
| Day | High | Low | Precip | Conditions |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Tue, Jun 9 | 86° | 74° | — | Overcast |
| Wed, Jun 10 | 85° | 71° | 0.70 in (28%) | Thunderstorm |
| Thu, Jun 11 | 87° | 73° | 0.35 in (49%) | Thunderstorm |
| Fri, Jun 12 | 77° | 64° | 0.27 in (64%) | Moderate rain showers |
Good news for commercial fruit growers in the Midwest! The comprehensive 2026-2027 Midwest Fruit Pest Management Guide is now available online [1]. This essential resource provides conventional pest management recommendations specifically for commercial tree fruit, small fruit, and grape producers throughout the Midwest and its neighboring states, offering crucial guidance for the upcoming seasons.
Additionally, the latest issue of the "Growing Urban Ag" Newsletter (May 2026) has just been released [2]. This edition is full of engaging updates from the Ohio State Urban Food Innovations Lab, showcasing their ongoing projects and developments in urban agriculture. It's a valuable read for anyone following the advancements and community efforts in urban farming.
If you're dreaming of a bigger pepper harvest this year, a recent deep dive into expert growing methods offers some valuable insights, especially for those in cooler climates like Canada [1]. The key, it seems, is identifying and addressing the bottlenecks that limit your plants' production.
First up is temperature. During the critical flowering stage, peppers need a delicate balance: not too hot during the day, which can cause flowers and pollen to drop, and not too cold at night, which has the same effect. It's worth looking up the specific temperature range your pepper variety prefers for optimal fruiting and flowering [1].
Next, don't skimp on sunlight. Peppers are sun worshippers, needing direct, full sun for as much of the day as possible. If your garden has changing sun patterns, consider growing in containers so you can move them to chase the light. Just be mindful of sun stress, which can occur from intense light combined with high heat [1].
Root space is surprisingly nuanced. While too small a root space can stunt growth, unlimited space in the ground can cause the plant to prioritize root development over fruit production. For those in colder climates with shorter growing seasons, a 5-gallon container is often ideal, striking a balance that encourages fruiting [1].
Many gardeners misunderstand watering. Peppers don't actually dislike water; they need *consistent* access to it. Erratic watering, either too much or too little, can lead to dropped flowers, stunted growth, and even issues like blossom end rot. Self-watering containers are highly recommended for maintaining this consistency. When potting, plant peppers flush with the soil surface, unlike tomatoes, and a general fertilizer is usually sufficient [1].
Finally, and perhaps most importantly, harvest your peppers as soon as they're ready [1]. Leaving ripe peppers on the plant acts as a "resource sink," diverting energy that could be used for producing new flowers and fruits. Regular harvesting encourages a more continuous and abundant yield throughout the season.
Yesterday's rainfall: None
Today's growing degree-days (base 50°F): 22.2
| Day | High | Low | Precip | Conditions |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Mon, Jun 8 | 89° | 56° | — | Overcast |
| Tue, Jun 9 | 78° | 71° | 1.88 in (79%) | Heavy rain |
| Wed, Jun 10 | 85° | 70° | 0.85 in (78%) | Thunderstorm |
| Thu, Jun 11 | 85° | 73° | 0.18 in (50%) | Thunderstorm |
For anyone who’s ever dreamed of growing their own food but felt limited by a lack of yard space, or perhaps by renting, an inspiring video from The Millennial Gardener offers some truly clever solutions. Titled "Weirdly Brilliant Ways to Grow Vegetables WITHOUT a Garden or Yard!", this comprehensive guide tackles the common hurdles of small spaces, urban living, and even budget or physical constraints that often deter aspiring gardeners [1].
The presenter, who humorously admits to often having "dozens of extra plants that I can't fit in my garden" each spring, shares seven innovative techniques for cultivating vegetables regardless of your living situation. These aren't just minor tweaks; they're genuinely creative approaches designed to maximize output in minimal areas. Whether you're in an apartment, have a tiny balcony, or just a small patch of concrete, the video promises ways to grow an abundance of food, proving that a traditional backyard garden isn't a prerequisite for a thriving harvest [1].
Yesterday's rainfall: 0.16 in
Today's growing degree-days (base 50°F): 19.5
| Day | High | Low | Precip | Conditions |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Sun, Jun 7 | 77° | 62° | — | Mainly clear |
| Mon, Jun 8 | 86° | 57° | — | Overcast |
| Tue, Jun 9 | 80° | 67° | 0.08 in (67%) | Moderate drizzle |
| Wed, Jun 10 | 83° | 69° | 0.16 in (38%) | Thunderstorm |
If you've ever hauled a heavy bag of compost from the garden center, feeling virtuous about feeding your soil, here's something worth knowing before your next trip: you're likely carrying a lot more water and dirt than actual compost. A close look at the labels on bagged compost and composted manure reveals that most products contain only 20–30% organic matter — the stuff you're actually paying for. The rest? Roughly 45% is water, and about 25% is plain old soil that got mixed in during the commercial composting process (or, less charitably, may have been added on purpose to bulk up the weight) [1].
That means when you spread a bag across your garden beds, you're delivering far less organic benefit than you might imagine — closer to one-third of the bag's contents is doing meaningful work.
Not all organic matter is created equal, either. Watch out for wood chips and shaved wood products increasingly used as filler in commercial blends. They're cheap, nutrient-poor, and can actually tie up nitrogen in your soil as they break down [1]. Look for products with high organic matter content, low moisture, and no visible wood material — and skip the premium "special ingredient" blends promising magic from kelp or crab shell. They're just compost with a marketing budget.
The best option, as ever, is making your own — or simply practicing the "cut-and-drop" method, letting plant material decompose right where it falls. Failing that, a bag of fresh manure from a local horse farm will often outperform anything on a nursery shelf [1].
Yesterday's rainfall: None
Today's growing degree-days (base 50°F): 27.7
| Day | High | Low | Precip | Conditions |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Sat, Jun 6 | 86° | 69° | 0.54 in (31%) | Moderate rain showers |
| Sun, Jun 7 | 79° | 63° | — | Overcast |
| Mon, Jun 8 | 81° | 55° | — | Overcast |
| Tue, Jun 9 | 70° | 67° | 0.25 in (77%) | Slight rain showers |
If you've ever stared at a blank patch of yard and thought *"someday I'll turn that into a proper garden"* — this is your sign that someday can be now. GrowVeg's Ben walks through a genuinely practical, step-by-step framework for getting a vegetable garden off the ground, and the advice holds whether you're breaking new soil or reclaiming a neglected corner that's gone a bit wild [1].
The first insight is a good one: before you touch a single seed or shovel a single clod of dirt, think about your paths. Ben calls them the "backbone of any garden," and it's hard to argue — paths are what turn a chaotic patch into something you can actually work in without trampling your own crops. He recommends drawing inspiration from the classic kitchen garden layout, two intersecting paths forming a cross that naturally divides the space into four manageable planting beds. A few tent pegs and some brightly colored twine are all you need to get that structure mapped out on the ground.
From there, the guide builds logically outward — addressing soil preparation, bed layout, and the practical sequencing that keeps beginners from getting overwhelmed. The underlying message is reassuring: the core steps are the same regardless of your garden's size or your experience level. GrowVeg also offers a free trial of their Garden Planner tool and a downloadable excerpt from Ben's book for anyone who wants to dig deeper (pun very much intended).
If you have even a modest strip of outdoor space and a appetite for homegrown vegetables, this is a worthy 18 minutes of your afternoon.
If you're a keen gardener, you know that even your most beloved plant varieties can have an off-year, especially when Mother Nature decides to throw a curveball. That's exactly what happened in a Florida garden during a recent "battle of the best tomato plants," which saw unexpected failures and surprising disappointments among usually reliable performers [1].
Our friend from Homegrown Florida faced one of her toughest tomato seasons yet, contending with late frosts quickly followed by "crazy heat" and a significant winter drought. These extreme conditions really tested her ten favorite varieties, plus a few underdogs [1]. The biggest casualty? The Silvery Fir Tree tomato, a dwarf determinant. Despite a good fall showing, it was a complete failure in spring, producing only two tomatoes before fizzling out. Blamed on its placement, clumped planting, and a clear intolerance for the sudden heat, it's been entirely removed from the gardener's rotation [1].
Even more surprising was the drastic fall of Kawola, a Hawaiian-bred, typically heat and disease-tolerant variety that had been her top performer for two consecutive years. This spring, it barely grew, with "very, very little foliage" and few flowers, dropping to ninth place. Similarly, the usually robust Better Boy hybrid struggled, producing only a couple of tomatoes, a far cry from its usual abundant yield [1]. The challenges underscore how critical climate adaptability is; some varieties like Belly Nalive, which tasted great but withered in the spring heat, will now be grown exclusively in the cooler fall season [1]. It just goes to show that even the most proven varieties can falter when faced with unusual weather, reminding us to constantly assess and adapt to our unique garden conditions.
Source Footnote List: [1] Homegrown Florida — https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VBerHVlMHSI
Ever wondered if all those clever gardening tricks you hear about are actually backed by science? Ashley from Gardening In Canada, who holds a Bachelor of Science in Soil Science, recently tackled the "Garden Myths That Refuse to Die" [1]. She brings a refreshing scientific lens to common gardening beliefs, particularly those surrounding companion planting as a pest and disease deterrent. Ashley's goal is to equip fellow gardeners with the knowledge to discern what's genuinely effective from what's merely folklore.
She explains that many myths often originate from real scientific studies, where a specific plant might indeed repel a pest like flea beetles under controlled lab conditions. However, the efficacy often doesn't translate directly to the complex, uncontrolled environment of a typical garden. As a Zone 3 Canadian gardener with professional experience in agriculture, Ashley offers practical advice grounded in evidence, encouraging viewers to be critical thinkers. It's a valuable reminder that while traditional wisdom can be charming, understanding the underlying science can make our gardens truly thrive. Ashley also touched on the broader challenge for long-form content creators like herself, noting the rise of AI-generated content and the trend towards short, "dopamine-hit" videos, which makes sharing nuanced, science-based insights even more vital.
Yesterday's rainfall: None
Today's growing degree-days (base 50°F): 23.1
| Day | High | Low | Precip | Conditions |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Fri, Jun 5 | 86° | 60° | — | Overcast |
| Sat, Jun 6 | 84° | 71° | 0.02 in (89%) | Light drizzle |
| Sun, Jun 7 | 74° | 62° | 0.01 in (38%) | Overcast |
| Mon, Jun 8 | 78° | 59° | 0.23 in (11%) | Slight rain showers |
If you're looking to maximize your harvest this season, particularly with peppers, some new insights could help your plants produce non-stop until the first frost [1]. The key, according to one experienced gardener, is an aggressive and consistent feeding schedule. For explosive growth, amend your planting hole with a slow-release organic fertilizer blend, such as an all-purpose mix combined with bone meal, crab and lobster shell meal, and azomite. If your plants are already in the ground, simply spread two tablespoons of a balanced organic fertilizer around the base of each plant and water it in. This process is crucial and should be repeated every two weeks throughout the entire growing season, as peppers are surprisingly heavy feeders for their size [1].
Another vital step for a bountiful pepper harvest is proper support. While individual stakes work, for larger beds, the "Florida weave" method is highly effective. Plant your peppers relatively close, about one square foot per plant, and then use five-foot stakes placed every four or five plants. Synthetic nylon twine is recommended over natural materials, which can expand and contract. Weave the twine alternately behind and in front of each plant, securing it around the stakes, and add new strings every 6 to 12 inches as your plants grow throughout the season. And here's a myth to debunk: resist the urge to prune young pepper plants to encourage bushiness. This common advice can actually set your plants back several weeks, delaying flowering and fruiting [1].
Meanwhile, if you're aiming for "giant" tomato plants, consistent care is also the name of the game. One gardener attributes their success with robust tomato seedlings to several factors, including fertilizing every time they water, careful temperature management in the greenhouse, and using a high-porosity soil mix. The type of container also made a difference; inexpensive "root trainer" pots, which offer ample soil volume and encourage downward root growth with their corrugated design, contributed to healthier, more robust root systems that didn't overheat [2]. This constant access to water, nutrients, and oxygen, combined with strong roots, appears to be the secret to their booming tomato crop [2].
If you've been looking for a way to grow "unimaginable amounts of produce" at home, Hoocho might just have cracked the code for fruiting plants. They've unveiled the "Hooch Bucket 2.0," a gravity-fed, passive wicking hydroponic system that they claim is the most productive they've ever used [1].
This ingenious system leverages readily available 90mm pipes, combined with 3D-printable buckets and parts, making it surprisingly cost-effective for home growers. Hoocho estimates a full system, including pipe, filament for 3D-printed buckets, net cups, float covers, and even 100 liters of hydroponic-grade coco media, comes in at around $120 – "really bloody cheap," as they put it [1]. The design is quite clever, featuring wider 600mm spacing between buckets to accommodate larger fruiting plants like capsicums and chilies, and a slight slope for easy drainage. They even spray the 3D-printed buckets internally with clear paint to prevent wicking and ensure durability [1].
For nutrient management, Hoocho employs a staggered approach, starting seedlings at a lower EC (around 1), then transferring them to buckets with coco rehydrated at 1.5-2 EC, and finally supplying nutrient solution from a 1,000 L reservoir at 2-2.5 EC, adjusted to a pH of around 5.5 [1]. The results, after just three months and two weeks, were "incredible," with plants thriving and producing an impressive yield, proving the Hooch Bucket 2.0 to be a standout performer [1].
***
### Source Footnotes: [1] Hoocho — https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WojTjN5VDC0
Yesterday's rainfall: None
Today's growing degree-days (base 50°F): 16.8
| Day | High | Low | Precip | Conditions |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Thu, Jun 4 | 85° | 48° | — | Overcast |
| Fri, Jun 5 | 86° | 61° | — | Overcast |
| Sat, Jun 6 | 79° | 64° | 0.45 in (86%) | Slight rain showers |
| Sun, Jun 7 | 75° | 62° | 0.00 in (46%) | Light drizzle |
For those of us eager to get a head start on the growing season, a veteran gardener with 50 years of experience has shared a surprising, yet effective, new method for cool-season crops like lettuce, spinach, and peas [1]. Traditionally, we're told to plant these as soon as the soil can be worked, but new insights suggest this might be counterintuitive for germination. Research from the 1950s by J.F. Harrington indicates that almost all vegetable seeds, including cool-season varieties, germinate fastest and at the highest rate around 86°F, not in cold spring soil. While these plants thrive in cool growing conditions, their seeds prefer warmth to get going. The solution? Germinate them warmly indoors using a method like the "baggy method," then transplant the sprouted seedlings into the cool outdoor soil. This technique can save you 2 to 3 weeks of growth, leading to larger, healthier plants and potentially higher yields before the summer heat arrives [1].
Meanwhile, another expert with a soil science degree has been tackling the age-old question of optimal pot size for tomatoes [2]. He conducted an experiment comparing the performance of tomatoes grown in three different container sizes, aiming to see which size truly delivered the best results in terms of plant health and production. While the full results aren't detailed, he hints that the answer wasn't as straightforward as one might expect, and also emphasized that his initial seed-starting method played a significant role in the exceptional health of all his plants [2].
For those dedicated to maintaining lush, healthy lawns and turf, the Ohio State University's Buckeye Yard & Garden Line (BYGL) recently published their 'Turfgrass Team Times' for May 29, 2026 [1]. Issued by a team of horticultural experts, the 'Turfgrass Team Times' is a timely and invaluable resource for both professional landscapers and enthusiastic home gardeners in the region. These regular dispatches typically delve into the most pressing turf management issues of the moment, offering research-backed advice on everything from identifying and combating common lawn diseases and pests to optimal fertilization schedules and watering techniques as temperatures rise. Given its late May publication date (though it just surfaced on June 4th), this edition likely provides critical guidance for navigating the challenges and opportunities of the early summer growing season, ensuring your turfgrass remains vibrant and resilient. It's the kind of practical, expert advice that can truly make a difference in your lawn care strategy, so it's definitely worth checking out the full report if you're looking for up-to-the-minute insights.
Yesterday's rainfall: None
Today's growing degree-days (base 50°F): 12.8
| Day | High | Low | Precip | Conditions |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Wed, Jun 3 | 77° | 48° | — | Clear sky |
| Thu, Jun 4 | 85° | 53° | — | Overcast |
| Fri, Jun 5 | 81° | 60° | — | Overcast |
| Sat, Jun 6 | 79° | 64° | 0.69 in (75%) | Moderate rain showers |
Yesterday's rainfall: None
Today's growing degree-days (base 50°F): 10.5
| Day | High | Low | Precip | Conditions |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Tue, Jun 2 | 71° | 50° | — | Fog |
| Wed, Jun 3 | 76° | 50° | — | Overcast |
| Thu, Jun 4 | 77° | 55° | — | Overcast |
| Fri, Jun 5 | 80° | 60° | 0.02 in (8%) | Light drizzle |
If you thought the window for seed starting had closed for the season, think again! June, it turns out, is actually one of the best months to sow a surprising variety of crops for a continuous summer harvest, especially for those gardening in cooler zones like 3, 4, or 5 [1]. The secret lies in the warm soil temperatures of early summer, which allow seeds to germinate "lickety split" without the risk of rotting that cold spring soils presented.
You can still get a quick turnaround on crops like beets, arugula, Swiss chard, lettuce, and radishes. Beyond those speedy greens, June is prime time for some of the garden's most productive plants. Consider planting winter and summer squash now, along with carrots, pole and bush beans (don't underestimate their yield!), and peas. For larger seeds, a great hack is to pre-soak or pre-germinate them, then broadcast them across the soil surface before top-dressing with compost or peat [1]. This method works wonders in compacted soils.
Don't forget about flowers! Sunflowers, marigolds, morning glories (if not invasive in your area), and nasturtiums (also benefit from pre-soaking) can still be started. For those planning a fall harvest, June is also ideal for starting cold-climate crops like kohlrabi, broccolini, broccoli, cauliflower, Brussels sprouts, kale, Swiss chard, and spinach – just be sure they are short-season varieties or you're prepared to cover them later in the year [1].
As you plant in warmer conditions, a few tips will help your seedlings thrive. Protect young plants from predatory birds with cages or even fake snakes. For carrots, try the "2x4 trick" to maintain soil moisture, or use mulches like shredded straw, which also prevents seeds from drying out or washing away in heavy rains. And of course, consistent watering is crucial for newly sown seeds and young transplants [1].
### Source Footnotes [1] "15 Crops You Should Plant Right Now" — https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4RvlsNi2OQk
Yesterday's rainfall: None
Today's growing degree-days (base 50°F): 9.2
| Day | High | Low | Precip | Conditions |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Mon, Jun 1 | 73° | 45° | — | Overcast |
| Tue, Jun 2 | 71° | 47° | — | Overcast |
| Wed, Jun 3 | 72° | 50° | — | Overcast |
| Thu, Jun 4 | 77° | 53° | — | Overcast |
Even though June brings intense heat to Florida, it's actually still a surprisingly productive month for gardeners, provided you pick the right crops and varieties that thrive in the summer sun [1]. Don't let the high temperatures deter you from continuing to grow edibles!
This month, the focus is on a variety of heat-loving plants. For greens, consider tropical spinaches like longevity, Okinawa, sissoo, red Malabar spinach, Ethiopian kale, Egyptian spinach, amaranth, and chaya, along with Swiss chard [1]. When it comes to fruiting crops, while most tomatoes struggle, the Everglades variety can still be grown. Several squashes are excellent choices, including Tromboncino, Seminole pumpkins, Tahitian melon squash, and South Anna butternut squash. Chayote is also a good option, especially for South Florida, and you can even grow luffa for homemade sponges. Asian and Armenian cucumber varieties are also being tested for summer success [1].
Root crops are another strong contender, with sweet potatoes being a particular favorite. Taro, cassava, yuca, jicama, ginger, and turmeric also do well. If you're looking for legumes, various cowpeas like the Puerto Rican black bean, whippoorwill, and Texas cream are ideal. For "green bean" cravings, try winged beans or long beans, and for dry beans, limas are a good pick. Peanuts also fall into this heat-loving legume family. And finally, for sweet treats, pineapples, papayas, passion fruits, and bananas can all be planted this time of year [1].
It might seem early, but planning for major agricultural events is already underway! The Ohio State University (OSU) VegNet News shared an exciting opportunity for those involved with or interested in small-scale farming: a pre-survey for the 2027 Small Farm Conference [1]. OSU is proactively reaching out to the community to gather recommendations and fresh ideas, aiming to make the future conference as relevant and impactful as possible.
This isn't just about picking dates and venues; it's a chance for small farmers and agricultural advocates to directly influence the content, topics, and even the format of a key event designed to support their endeavors. By engaging with this early planning stage, participants can help ensure the conference addresses the most pressing challenges, showcases innovative solutions, and provides valuable networking opportunities for the small farm community. If you have insights on what you'd like to see, learn, or discuss at such an event, taking a few moments to fill out their brief survey could make a real difference in shaping the 2027 conference experience.
For our friends in the farming community, there was a really insightful piece this week from OSU VegNet News on optimizing energy usage on the farm [1]. It's a topic that's only becoming more critical, especially with an eye on both operational costs and environmental impact. The article dives into practical strategies that farmers can adopt to make their operations more energy-efficient and sustainable.
It covers everything from identifying the biggest energy hogs on a typical farm – think irrigation systems, heating for greenhouses, and machinery – to implementing smarter technologies. They highlight the benefits of switching to things like LED lighting, using variable frequency drives for motors, and just generally optimizing daily operations. The underlying message is clear: even small changes can add up to significant savings on energy bills, which directly impacts the bottom line, especially in today's economic climate. Plus, every kilowatt-hour saved is a win for the environment. It's a great reminder that sustainability isn't just about grand gestures; it's also about smart, day-to-day management that benefits everyone.
If you've spent any time recently searching for gardening help on YouTube, you've probably encountered them: faceless channels promising that one magic spoonful will double your harvest overnight, complete with suspiciously perfect AI-generated thumbnails and a robotic voiceover reading a script that sounds just like the last fifteen videos you accidentally clicked on. The Millennial Gardener has had enough, and honestly, his frustration is well-earned.
In a nearly 24-minute video, he walks through exactly what's happening: AI-scripted, AI-narrated, AI-illustrated content farms are churning out hundreds of gardening videos daily, recycling the same clickbait premises with zero accountability for accuracy. The real damage isn't just aesthetic — these videos are setting up new gardeners for genuine failure by promising instant, magical results that biology simply cannot deliver [1].
His counter-advice is refreshingly practical. Fertilizing your vegetable garden isn't optional, and compost alone is usually an expensive, inconsistent substitute for a straightforward bag of balanced fertilizer. He breaks down the four main fertilizer types — granular organics, water-soluble organics, slow-release synthetics, and water-soluble synthetics — noting that even the fastest-acting options take days or weeks to show results in plant tissue, not overnight. His personal routine: granular organics plus water-soluble fish fertilizer and a synthetic booster every two weeks, delivered through drip irrigation.
He also demystifies pollination, pointing out that most vegetables gardeners stress over (tomatoes, peppers, beans) are wind-pollinated and respond brilliantly to simply shaking the plant — or, if you're feeling theatrical, a toothbrush or a leaf blower on its lowest setting.
The throughline is simple: consistency, routine, and patience beat any magic formula. Anyone selling you otherwise is either misinformed or lying to you.
It seems even some of our favorite, toughest landscape plants aren't immune to a bit of botanical mystery! The experts at OSU BYGL recently brought attention to an intriguing development on fragrant sumac, a popular and usually low-maintenance shrub prized for its beautiful fall color and resilience [1]. Gardeners might start noticing unusual growths, or 'galls,' appearing on these otherwise hardy plants.
Galls are essentially abnormal plant growths, often triggered by insects or mites laying eggs or feeding, causing the plant tissue to form a protective (or sometimes just odd-looking) structure. While they can look alarming, galls are typically more of a cosmetic concern than a serious threat to a plant's overall health.
What makes this particular observation on fragrant sumac so intriguing, according to OSU BYGL, is its 'Poison Ivy Connection' [1]. While fragrant sumac (Rhus aromatica) is a non-allergenic cousin to poison ivy, both belong to the same plant family, Anacardiaceae. The article delves into what might link these specific galls to its more infamous relative, offering a fascinating look into complex plant-pest interactions. If you've spotted galls on your fragrant sumac, or are simply curious about this unexpected botanical family drama, their insights are well worth a read.
Yesterday's rainfall: None
Today's growing degree-days (base 50°F): 10.0
| Day | High | Low | Precip | Conditions |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Sun, May 31 | 71° | 49° | — | Fog |
| Mon, Jun 1 | 73° | 48° | — | Partly cloudy |
| Tue, Jun 2 | 68° | 48° | — | Overcast |
| Wed, Jun 3 | 70° | 51° | — | Overcast |
Forget tossing fertilizer willy-nilly; it turns out where you place it is a nuanced science with a big impact on your garden's success! According to a deep dive into soil science, strategic fertilizer placement can significantly influence root growth, plant resilience, and nutrient uptake [1].
The core idea is the "root magnet effect"—roots actively grow towards nutrient sources. This means placing fertilizer too close can lead to "root burn," while placing it too far away might mean nutrients are never reached. The goal is to encourage a strong, expansive root system, which in turn supports a healthier plant above ground.
Here are a few key strategies: * Below the Root Ball: Placing fertilizer at the bottom of the planting hole, covered by a layer of soil, encourages roots to grow downwards. This is particularly beneficial in hot, dry climates, helping plants access deeper moisture. * Beside the Root Ball: Around 2-5 inches away from the plant, this "root invitation" method coaxes roots to spread outwards, creating a wider, more stable base. * Mid-Row Banding: This method, often used in agriculture and highly recommended for gardens, involves placing a higher concentration of fertilizer between two plants, slightly below root level. It forces roots to spread both outwards and downwards, resulting in a remarkably extensive root system that improves drought resistance and overall plant vigor.
Crucially, your soil type dictates the best approach. Clay soils, with their high nutrient-holding capacity and slow nutrient movement, might benefit more from side placement, avoiding deep placement if waterlogging is a concern. Sandy soils, on the other hand, where nutrients move and leach quickly, thrive with mid-row banding and even below-ground placement to drive roots deeper for moisture. Loam soils offer flexibility, allowing you to adapt placement based on specific needs. For perennials like trees and bushes, aim to place fertilizer spikes far from the base, between plants, to encourage wide-reaching roots that anchor the plant against environmental stresses.
Understanding these placement techniques can truly transform how your garden thrives, proving that a little science goes a long way!
Yesterday's rainfall: None
Today's growing degree-days (base 50°F): 7.7
| Day | High | Low | Precip | Conditions |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Sat, May 30 | 63° | 52° | — | Clear sky |
| Sun, May 31 | 75° | 45° | — | Overcast |
| Mon, Jun 1 | 67° | 50° | — | Overcast |
| Tue, Jun 2 | 66° | 50° | — | Overcast |
Many of us have faced the frustrating sight of our beautiful plants, especially fresh edibles, smothered in sticky aphids. It's a common garden pest that can stunt growth and spread diseases like wildfire, but chemical sprays are often a no-go for crops you plan to eat. Thankfully, there are smarter, wildlife-safe approaches to take! A recent GrowVeg video dives into seven clever, gardener-tested strategies to tackle these tiny invaders without harmful chemicals [1]. The key takeaways emphasize the importance of early detection and making friends with natural allies in your garden. By spotting aphids early and encouraging beneficial insects, you can keep your plants healthy and your harvest organic.
It turns out that growing your own peaches in Florida is not just a dream, but a tangible goal, provided you have the right approach! Homegrown Florida is on a mission to harvest fruits and vegetables from their backyard garden every single month throughout 2026, and peaches are a star player in their successful year-round strategy [1].
For those dreaming of homegrown peaches, the secret lies in selecting the right variety and understanding Florida's unique climate. The channel highlights their beloved "Peachy," a Tropic Beauty peach tree, which has been thriving for 7-8 years. This specific cultivar, engineered by the University of Florida, is crucial because it only requires between 150 and 250 chill hours—cumulative hours below 45°F during winter—a stark contrast to the 600+ hours needed by most common peach varieties found in northern states [1]. Areas from Sarasota up through Tampa, Orlando, and North Florida can often meet these lower chill hour requirements, and resources like the Agroclimate website can help you gauge your local conditions [1].
What's fascinating is that while Peachy produced exceptionally well even during a year with unusually high chill hours (450!), the timing of flowering remains critical. Tropic Beauty peaches typically flower in February. While their flowers are more resilient than some other fruit trees, a late cold front in March can still pose a risk, potentially damaging or killing the blooms if temperatures dip below freezing [1]. So, while it demands a bit of "finesse," growing peaches like Tropic Beauty is presented as incredibly rewarding, opening the door for Florida gardeners to enjoy fresh, homegrown fruit from late May onward, alongside other seasonal harvests like strawberries, mulberries, and figs [1].
Yesterday's rainfall: None
Today's growing degree-days (base 50°F): 13.6
| Day | High | Low | Precip | Conditions |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Fri, May 29 | 77° | 50° | — | Fog |
| Sat, May 30 | 63° | 51° | — | Clear sky |
| Sun, May 31 | 68° | 45° | — | Overcast |
| Mon, Jun 1 | 68° | 49° | — | Overcast |
As summer truly kicks into gear, you might think the main planting rush is over, but our friend, The Millennial Gardener, reminds us that June is actually a critical month for ensuring your garden thrives long past peak summer and into the colder months [1]. Stopping your planting efforts now, he warns, can lead to an early garden demise. Instead, June is the time to focus on crops that require a longer growing season, promising bountiful harvests later in the year.
First on the 'must-plant' list are winter squashes, encompassing beloved varieties like butternut, spaghetti, acorn, and even pumpkins and gourds [1]. Unlike their quick-growing summer counterparts, winter squashes need a substantial 80 to 120 days (or more!) to mature, making a June planting essential for a late summer or early fall harvest. These beauties develop thick, hard shells, perfect for long-term storage in a cool, dry place. While late planting can invite more pests, The Millennial Gardener suggests opting for resistant varieties such as butternut, Zucchino Rampicante (also known as Trombanchino squash), or the resilient Seminole pumpkin.
Next up are sweet potatoes, which really shine when planted in early June [1]. These warm-weather lovers need a good four to five months to fully develop their delicious, large roots, thriving in the heat and humidity that June brings. It's a fun fact that sweet potatoes aren't actually true potatoes (they're the roots of a morning glory vine!), and you'll typically plant them using 'slips' – cuttings from the vine – rather than the root itself. Getting these in the ground now ensures they have ample time to bulk up before the season cools.
By continuing to plant strategically in June, you're not just growing food; you're cultivating a harvest that keeps on giving, extending the joy of your garden well into fall and beyond.
If you've always buried your tomato plants deep in the soil, you might want to rethink that strategy, especially if you live in a cooler climate. While deep planting is often advised to encourage more roots, it turns out this common wisdom might actually be detrimental, according to insights from *Gardening In Canada* [1].
The original research that popularized deep planting was conducted in Florida, where the focus was on achieving ideal soil temperatures—between 70 and 80°F—for the tomato root ball to thrive and maximize yields. In Florida's warm climate, planting deeper ensured the roots were in this optimal temperature zone. However, in regions like Canada, planting tomatoes to the first true leaves can place the root ball in significantly colder soil, sometimes as low as 40°F, severely stunting the plant's growth.
Instead, the recommendation is to plant tomato root balls much shallower, ideally flush with the soil surface. This allows the roots to access warmer soil temperatures crucial for robust growth. Using mulch can also help maintain this warmth and regulate soil temperature. While deep planting does encourage adventitious roots from the stem, this benefit was actually a spin-off of the original study; the primary factor for success was always the soil temperature. If you really want those extra roots, you can achieve a similar effect by laying the plant on its side, but it's not a make-or-break element for success. The key takeaway is to test your soil temperatures throughout the season and adjust your planting depth based on your specific conditions—considering factors like raised beds, sun exposure, and container material—to ensure your tomatoes are warm enough to flourish [1].
Source List: [1] "STOP burying your tomatoes 🍅" — Gardening In Canada — https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2yUDjTTa7tU
If you've been diligently adding compost to your fresh potting mix, a soil scientist and seasoned container gardener suggests you might be missing the mark on how container soils actually work [1]. The core issue, it turns out, is that potting soils are largely "microbial deserts" compared to garden soil. They're designed for excellent drainage, which means less water film for microbes, and they contain limited, undiverse organic material. Without a robust microbial community, there's low enzyme activity and nutrient cycling, meaning plants can't access the nutrients locked within organic matter like compost, bone meal, or feather meal, as these need microbial breakdown to become bioavailable [1].
Instead of focusing on fresh compost for new soil, the key is time and reuse. Older, continuously reused potting soils develop a more broken-down structure and accumulate microbial diversity over the years, creating what's dubbed a "microbial ramp" that can effectively turn organic matter into a slow-release fertilizer. For immediate plant needs, especially early in the season to combat transplant shock or erratic weather, a "dual fuel system" is recommended: using synthetic liquid fertilizers to provide readily available nutrients while the organic components in the reused soil gradually become active. Plants don't differentiate between nutrient sources, making synthetic fertilizers a practical tool when microbial activity isn't yet established [1].
Yesterday's rainfall: None
Today's growing degree-days (base 50°F): 11.4
| Day | High | Low | Precip | Conditions |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Thu, May 28 | 69° | 54° | — | Mainly clear |
| Fri, May 29 | 75° | 46° | — | Mainly clear |
| Sat, May 30 | 62° | 47° | — | Overcast |
| Sun, May 31 | 68° | 43° | — | Partly cloudy |
Yesterday's rainfall: None
Today's growing degree-days (base 50°F): 18.5
| Day | High | Low | Precip | Conditions |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Wed, May 27 | 78° | 59° | — | Fog |
| Thu, May 28 | 67° | 54° | — | Overcast |
| Fri, May 29 | 69° | 47° | — | Overcast |
| Sat, May 30 | 59° | 48° | — | Overcast |
For those of us constantly battling Mother Nature in our gardens, two recent dispatches offer some fantastic regional wisdom! If you’ve ever wondered why your Florida zucchini isn't "drowning" you in squash like the internet promises, you're not alone. Our friends at Homegrown Florida have cracked the code for growing zucchini successfully in the Sunshine State’s challenging heat and humidity [1].
They recommend specific varieties built for the climate. Topping their list for sheer prolific growth and pest resistance (though watch out for pickle worms!) is Tromboncino Squash, also known as Zucchini Rampicante. This unique, long-necked squash is largely immune to common scourges like squash vine borers and squash bugs. While its appearance might make it a hard sell to neighbors, its ability to produce abundant, storable fruit, and even mature into a delicious winter squash, makes it a Florida winner. For a more traditional-looking, yet robust, option, they also highlight Dunja Zucchini, a hybrid praised for its excellent heat tolerance and disease resistance, proving itself a reliable producer even if not the absolute most prolific [1].
Meanwhile, up north, Gardening In Canada offers a reassuring message for anyone feeling "behind" in their garden this year, whether due to a late spring, bad weather, or personal challenges like chronic illness [2]. It’s never too late to catch up! Their "recovery garden method" focuses on smart strategies: * Buying starts: Skip the fragile seedling stage and get a head start with established plants. * Choosing fast-growing crops: Think radishes, lettuce, beets, carrots, or bok choy for quick turnarounds. * Strategic container use: Provides mobility to escape harsh conditions and reduces the need for bending, a boon for those with physical limitations. * Speeding up the process: Use the "bucket method" to shade newly transplanted seedlings from intense sun, or warm your soil with low tunnels to accelerate seed germination [2].
It’s clear that successful gardening, no matter where you are, is all about adapting your approach to your specific environment and circumstances.
Yesterday's rainfall: None
Today's growing degree-days (base 50°F): 15.9
| Day | High | Low | Precip | Conditions |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Tue, May 26 | 80° | 52° | — | Fog |
| Wed, May 27 | 78° | 60° | — | Overcast |
| Thu, May 28 | 63° | 51° | — | Clear sky |
| Fri, May 29 | 66° | 47° | — | Overcast |
Yesterday's rainfall: 0.08 in
Today's growing degree-days (base 50°F): 12.6
| Day | High | Low | Precip | Conditions |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Mon, May 25 | 68° | 57° | 0.00 in (16%) | Light drizzle |
| Tue, May 26 | 80° | 53° | — | Overcast |
| Wed, May 27 | 77° | 61° | 0.01 in (6%) | Light drizzle |
| Thu, May 28 | 62° | 50° | 0.01 in (6%) | Light drizzle |
If you've ever dreamt of growing your own food but felt intimidated by the sheer number of plants or past crop failures, you're certainly not alone. Many new gardeners dive in with gusto, only to find their enthusiasm wane when ambitious projects don't pan out, or they feel overwhelmed and start too late, leading to similar disappointing results. This cycle of excitement followed by failure can be incredibly disheartening, crushing the initial confidence needed to keep going [1].
However, The Millennial Gardener offers a fantastic approach to turn that around: focus on mastering just a few "insanely easy" plants first. By choosing highly productive, rewarding vegetables that require less effort, beginners can build essential gardening skills and confidence with a much higher success rate. This strategy not only makes you "look like a pro" but, more importantly, fosters a positive, encouraging experience that sets you up for long-term gardening enjoyment and growth [1]. So, instead of biting off more than you can chew, perhaps picking those first few foolproof plants is the real secret to cultivating a green thumb.
If you've heard some buzz recently about chemicals in strawberries, a popular Canadian gardener and soil scientist, Ashley, with 15 years in agriculture, dives into a viral claim regarding Driscoll strawberries [1]. A recent paper, widely shared online, suggested these berries were "laden with pesticides" linked to childhood leukemia. Ashley clarifies that while the headlines were alarming, the original study sampled only two containers of Driscoll strawberries – a sample size far too small to represent an entire farm or company, according to scientific standards [1].
She explains that strawberries are, in fact, an incredibly challenging crop to grow due to their susceptibility to fungal issues, thin skin, high perishability, and various pests. Consumer demand for blemish-free, perfectly shaped, year-round strawberries drives growers to use intensive methods, including pesticides, to ensure they survive the journey from farm to grocery store [1].
While many types of chemicals are detected on strawberries, Ashley notes that government regulations set "allowable limits" for residue on produce. The chemicals found in the Driscoll samples were typically present in "negligible amounts," often parts per billion, and well below these legal limits—some even three times lower [1]. The larger concern, she suggests, might be farmworker exposure to active ingredients or potential "overspray" affecting nearby communities, rather than the minuscule residues on the final product. Ultimately, while individual concerns about cumulative chemical exposure ("death by a thousand paper cuts") are valid, large corporations like Driscoll are generally operating within existing regulatory boundaries to meet global food demands [1].
Yesterday's rainfall: 0.70 in
Today's growing degree-days (base 50°F): 16.5
| Day | High | Low | Precip | Conditions |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Sun, May 24 | 75° | 59° | 0.12 in (51%) | Moderate rain |
| Mon, May 25 | 69° | 57° | 0.02 in (10%) | Light drizzle |
| Tue, May 26 | 77° | 53° | — | Overcast |
| Wed, May 27 | 79° | 61° | — | Overcast |
If you're wondering what makes a garden truly thrive, a soil scientist from Gardening In Canada has a strong message: it's all about what's happening *below* the surface [1]. She stresses that proper soil conditioning is non-negotiable, particularly when preparing beds for transplanting, which requires different considerations than seed sowing.
While the "no-dig" method has its proponents, she cautions against it, especially for raised beds or heavy clay soils, particularly if you're growing annuals like tomatoes and peppers that aren't perennial to your climate. The key, she advises, is to understand your sub-surface conditions. To diagnose potential issues, dig a spade's depth hole and look for "glazed" or "shiny" sides, or "modeling" (red or gray streaks), all tell-tale signs of heavy, water-retaining clay [1].
If you identify problematic clay, the solution for transplanting involves digging a hole three times wider and deeper than the plant's root ball. Excavate the soil, break up any clumps *outside* the hole, and then incorporate a significant amount—around 50% by volume—of a fine, uniform organic material into the excavated soil. Then, refill the hole partially with this amended mix. Before you even think about placing your plant, a crucial step often overlooked is checking the soil temperature with a thermometer. Ensuring the root ball goes into an adequately warm environment can make all the difference for a successful transplant [1].
It's a hot topic for gardeners, especially those in warmer climates: how to water your plants effectively. A recent video from Homegrown Florida stresses the importance of "deep watering," explaining that a quick splash just won't cut it in intense heat [1]. Instead of daily, shallow watering, the recommendation is to water less often but with a significantly larger amount of water each time.
This technique is a game-changer because it encourages roots to grow deeper and stronger, helping plants become more resilient and less susceptible to diseases. When you only water the surface, roots stay near the top, leading to weaker plants that constantly search for moisture. Deep watering ensures the water sinks far down, compelling roots to follow. The video even suggests that by adopting deep watering, you might only need to water twice a week, even in challenging conditions like Florida, compared to daily or twice-daily shallow watering [1].
Beyond root strength, shallow watering with a hose or sprinkler can also contribute to fungal diseases by keeping leaves wet for too long and splashing spores from the soil. To check if you're deep watering effectively, simply use the "finger poke test" or a moisture meter, aiming to keep soil moisture above the 25-30% mark for most plants [1]. It's a simple change that can lead to dramatically healthier plants.
Yesterday's rainfall: None
Today's growing degree-days (base 50°F): 13.9
| Day | High | Low | Precip | Conditions |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Sat, May 23 | 71° | 57° | 0.76 in (96%) | Slight rain showers |
| Sun, May 24 | 76° | 58° | — | Fog |
| Mon, May 25 | 70° | 54° | — | Fog |
| Tue, May 26 | 79° | 57° | — | Overcast |
As we step into early summer, it's a prime time for gardeners to "get ahead" by sowing certain seeds that thrive in the warmth, promising quick growth and harvests in as little as six weeks. GrowVeg highlights that many people stop sowing too early, missing out on a crucial "short window" to maximize their garden's potential [1].
One standout crop recommended for June sowing is sprouting broccoli, particularly the "winter type." While it requires a bit of patience, taking 8 to 10 months from sowing to harvest, the wait is more than worth it. The resulting "beautiful purple, green, all white spears" are described as "absolute horticultural caviar" and "real gold," arriving when there's little else to pick, effectively filling that often-dreaded "hungry gap" [1].
To get started, sow sprouting broccoli seeds into plug trays, two seeds per cell, about a quarter-inch deep. This method offers excellent protection from pests like slugs and pigeons, and allows you to start plants indoors while their final garden spot might still be occupied. After 4 to 8 weeks in trays, transplant them into their permanent positions, spacing them generously at two feet (60 cm) apart in all directions, as they grow into "quite substantial plants" [1].
Speaking of staying ahead, our friend from Homegrown Florida gave us a very real look at the constant cycle of garden maintenance this week, as she finally buckled down to tackle a list of overdue projects [1]. With the Florida heat rapidly escalating, she made an iced coffee (a rare treat for motivation!) and spent the day cleaning, reorganizing, fixing things, and harvesting, all in an effort to get ahead before summer fully settles in [1]. It was less about a perfect, curated garden day and more about the practical reality of gardening: the ongoing cycle of tasks, big and small, that often get put off but eventually need doing to keep things thriving, especially as the seasons shift and temperatures rise [1].
Ever heard that old gardening chestnut about tomatoes and nitrogen – that too much leads to leafy growth and no fruit, so you should cut back on nitrogen as the plant matures? Well, it turns out that common wisdom might be leading us astray! [2] Research from hydroponic growers and soil studies at institutions like the University of Florida and Ohio State University actually shows the opposite: for maximum fruit production, tomato plants need *increasing* amounts of nitrogen as they mature and begin fruiting. [2]
This is because nitrogen isn't just for leaves; it's a vital nutrient for *every* part of the plant – roots, flowers, and especially the developing fruit. As your tomato plant grows larger and starts producing heavily, its overall demand for nitrogen naturally increases. The experts recommend starting with lower nitrogen for young plants and gradually increasing it right up until harvest. The only time to consider cutting back is if you've heavily over-fertilized early on, or in colder climates when you prune off late-season flowers that won't mature before frost. So, next time you're tending your tomatoes, remember to feed them consistently as they grow for a bountiful harvest! [2]
And speaking of keeping plants happy, if you've ever struggled with parched hanging baskets, you're not alone. [1] Many of us love the look of coir-lined baskets, but they can dry out at lightning speed. The good news is, there are some simple, science-backed tricks to keep them lush all summer long without daily watering. [1]
First, ditch the idea of well-draining soil for these pots; you want a mix that *retains* moisture. Line your coir basket with a plastic bag (like a grocery or garbage bag), making sure not to poke holes in the bottom – this creates a crucial water reservoir. [1] Mix in some 'soil moist' granular polymers to your potting soil; these act like tiny sponges, soaking up water and releasing it as needed. Also, resist the urge to cram too many plants in, as overcrowding drastically increases water demand. When watering, use the "flood method": fill the basket right to the brim, letting the water slowly soak down until it drains from the bottom. This ensures deep saturation and prevents the soil from becoming hydrophobic. These few adjustments can make a world of difference for your hanging beauties! [1]
Yesterday's rainfall: None
Today's growing degree-days (base 50°F): 7.0
| Day | High | Low | Precip | Conditions |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Fri, May 22 | 67° | 47° | 0.12 in (55%) | Moderate drizzle |
| Sat, May 23 | 72° | 57° | 1.50 in (100%) | Heavy rain |
| Sun, May 24 | 71° | 50° | — | Overcast |
| Mon, May 25 | 72° | 59° | — | Overcast |
For anyone looking to cultivate a greener thumb when it comes to fruit, Ohio State University Extension has just released a fantastic resource: the full recordings of their "All About Fruit! Webinar Series" [1]. This comprehensive series was thoughtfully designed to empower a wide range of growers, from enthusiastic home gardeners hoping for a sweeter harvest to small-scale and commercial producers aiming for greater yields and healthier plants.
The availability of these recordings means that the valuable insights and professional skills shared during the live webinars are now accessible on demand. Whether you're struggling with common fruit tree diseases, looking to optimize your pruning techniques, or simply want to understand the best varieties for your climate, this series promises to provide actionable advice. It's a prime example of how educational initiatives are helping to elevate the practice of fruit growing, ensuring that anyone with an interest can learn the professional-grade techniques needed for more robust and productive fruit-bearing plants.
One dedicated gardener recently shared a significant journey of resilience, revealing how he completely rebuilt his outdoor garden from the ground up to combat relentless climate challenges [1]. For years, "The Millennial Gardener" struggled with the intense heat, humidity, and daily torrential thunderstorms on the southeastern coast of North Carolina, which consistently devastated his summer vegetable crops by August 1st. Two years ago, reaching a breaking point, he declared himself "done gardening outdoors" in its previous form, kicking off an extensive overhaul.
His ambitious project began with addressing his original, shallow raised beds. These proved insufficient for moisture control and allowed root knot nematodes to infect plants once roots hit the native soil. Over two years, he meticulously ripped up and double-stacked his beds, creating much deeper, 18-inch structures, a change he notes "helped tremendously" with plant performance. Beyond deeper beds, his revamp incorporated more effective weed suppression, automated drip irrigation, and his "newest creation": a substantial protective roof with a built-in trellis. This innovative structure now shields a significant portion of his garden from the elements, showcasing a determined effort to cultivate a thriving space despite challenging environmental conditions [1].
It turns out many of us might be picking the wrong plants for our gardens, not because we lack a green thumb, but because we’re fighting our soil type rather than working with it [1]. Ashley from "Gardening In Canada," armed with a bachelor's in soil science, makes a compelling case for selecting plant varieties specifically designed to thrive in your garden's unique earth [1].
For those with clay soil, which often struggles with low oxygen and slow root penetration despite high water retention, the key is choosing wisely. Consider root crops with strong, blunt taproots like Denver carrots or beetroots, which are designed to push into denser clay soils. Water-loving plants such as willow, elderberry, and rhubarb also flourish, as do species adapted to compacted conditions like hostas and coneflowers. Surprisingly, vining plants like squash, watermelon, and pumpkins are good choices too, thanks to their opportunistic roots that spread across
Yesterday's rainfall: 0.04 in
Today's growing degree-days (base 50°F): 2.6
| Day | High | Low | Precip | Conditions |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Thu, May 21 | 60° | 45° | — | Overcast |
| Fri, May 22 | 66° | 47° | — | Overcast |
| Sat, May 23 | 61° | 52° | 1.45 in (96%) | Moderate rain showers |
| Sun, May 24 | 67° | 55° | 0.04 in (47%) | Moderate drizzle |
Yesterday's rainfall: 0.05 in
Today's growing degree-days (base 50°F): 9.8
| Day | High | Low | Precip | Conditions |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Wed, May 20 | 69° | 51° | 0.06 in (37%) | Moderate drizzle |
| Thu, May 21 | 57° | 43° | — | Overcast |
| Fri, May 22 | 60° | 44° | 0.59 in (86%) | Moderate rain |
| Sat, May 23 | 64° | 54° | 0.07 in (88%) | Moderate drizzle |
If you've ever dreamed of picking fruit from your own backyard every single month of the year, one Florida gardener is proving it's not just a fantasy — it's a carefully planned reality. The creator behind Homegrown Florida is setting herself the ambitious goal of a monthly harvest throughout all of 2026, and her seasonal lineup is genuinely impressive: strawberries in the winter months, loquats and mulberries come spring, and now, as May arrives, blueberries take center stage [1].
Blueberries in Florida might sound counterintuitive — these are berries that love cold — but that's exactly what makes the approach so interesting. The key tension is "chill hours": blueberries need a stretch of temperatures below 45°F to trigger fruiting, but Florida's winters can swing unpredictably between a light freeze and a damaging hard frost. Researchers at the University of Florida are actively breeding new varieties designed to handle that balance, along with producing larger berries (bigger fruit means faster hand-picking, which makes home and commercial growing alike more practical) [1].
For home growers, the single biggest lesson here is soil. Blueberries demand acidic conditions — ideally a pH between 4.5 and 5.5 — and most Florida soils run frustratingly alkaline thanks to the underlying limestone. The hard-won advice: skip planting in the ground entirely and go straight to containers, where you can control the soil mix from the start. Learning that lesson the slow way, watching in-ground plants struggle for a year before giving up, is an experience worth sparing yourself [1].
Whether you're in Florida or a similarly warm climate, the broader takeaway is that year-round fruit growing rewards smart variety selection and a willingness to work *with* your local quirks rather than against them.
Many new gardeners often blame poor harvests on bad fertilizer or bad luck, but a soil scientist with 15 years in agriculture suggests the real issues often begin much earlier, quietly stunting plant growth and reducing yields all season long [1]. The key, it turns out, often lies in protecting and nurturing your plant's roots from the very beginning.
One major culprit is transplant stress. Instead of sinking plants like tomatoes and peppers deep into the soil during transplant, aim to keep the original root ball level with the surface. This prevents the plant from diverting energy to grow new stem roots rather than developing its existing root system [1]. For an even stronger foundation, using larger containers or specialized root trainers can dramatically increase root mass, which directly correlates to a healthier, more productive plant above ground. For delicate-rooted plants like pumpkins, squash, or zinnias, starting them directly in compostable pots (like peat pots) can significantly reduce transplant shock, allowing roots to expand without disturbance [1].
Once plants are moved outdoors, environmental factors become crucial. Ensure the soil temperature is appropriate for your chosen plants; heat-loving varieties like tomatoes and peppers, for instance, will struggle if planted into soil that's too cold [1]. When hardening off seedlings, the focus should be on gradually increasing *light intensity*, not just the duration of outdoor exposure. Start plants in a shaded, sheltered spot, slowly exposing them to more direct light over several days, while protecting them from harsh winds [1].
Finally, proper watering and feeding make a difference. Always use sun-warmed or lukewarm water for seedlings, especially after transplanting, as cold water can shock them. While water is essential post-transplant, hold off on liquid fertilizers for about a week to let the plant recover. After that, incorporate a root booster with your watering regimen, and avoid placing fertilizer directly in the root hole during transplant [1]. These science-backed strategies can be a game-changer for successful gardening.
### Sources [1] "Science Says These Garden Mistakes Reduce Growth" — Gardening In Canada
For anyone curious about the full journey from a beehive to a bottle of something truly unique, Hoocho has released an extensive guide that covers fermenting honey into mead and then distilling it into what they call "HoneyShine" [1]. It's a fascinating look at how to take raw ingredients all the way to a finished product.
The adventure begins right in the beehive, with Hoocho demonstrating honey collection from a Flow Hive – a non-traditional Langstroth design that allows harvesting without disturbing the honeycomb. They even unveil a clever bulk collection method using a custom 3D-printed lid, designed to keep the bees away while the honey flows directly into a bucket. While not everyone has their own bees, Hoocho assures viewers that buying local, unadulterated honey works just as well for those wanting to try their hand at mead making.
From there, the collected honey is fermented into two distinct types of mead, serving as the base for the final distillation process into "HoneyShine." This video offers a deep dive for anyone interested in homesteading, fermentation, or simply exploring the intricate craft of turning nature's bounty into a spirited beverage. It’s a true “scratch to shine” experience, packed with useful information for enthusiasts and beginners alike [1].
Yesterday's rainfall: 0.01 in
Today's growing degree-days (base 50°F): 27.3
| Day | High | Low | Precip | Conditions |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Tue, May 19 | 87° | 68° | — | Overcast |
| Wed, May 20 | 72° | 45° | 0.02 in (35%) | Light drizzle |
| Thu, May 21 | 58° | 46° | — | Overcast |
| Fri, May 22 | 63° | 44° | 0.56 in (78%) | Moderate rain |
Yesterday's rainfall: None
Today's growing degree-days (base 50°F): 28.2
| Day | High | Low | Precip | Conditions |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Mon, May 18 | 89° | 68° | — | Overcast |
| Tue, May 19 | 82° | 68° | 0.30 in (74%) | Moderate rain showers |
| Wed, May 20 | 70° | 47° | 0.18 in (74%) | Light drizzle |
| Thu, May 21 | 59° | 44° | — | Overcast |
If you've ever wondered whether your tap water is secretly sabotaging your houseplants, the short answer is: probably not — but it's worth knowing the numbers. A detailed breakdown from Garden Fundamentals walks through the key water quality factors every plant lover should understand, and the takeaway is reassuringly practical [1].
Chlorine turns out to be a non-issue for most gardeners. Municipal water is kept well below the two parts per million threshold that can harm plants, and no, you don't need to let it sit overnight to "off-gas" — it's already at safe levels [1].
Fluoride is trickier. Added to many water supplies at around one ppm, it's generally tolerable for most plants, but low-level damage (slower growth, fewer blooms) can occur invisibly. Since symptoms mimic other problems like drought stress, it's easy to miss — so it's worth checking your municipality's published water report [1].
pH should ideally fall between 5.5 and 6.5 for most houseplants. Once it creeps above 7.5, you risk iron and phosphorus deficiencies over time, particularly in peat-based soils [1].
Water hardness — essentially the calcium and magnesium content — has a sweet spot around 100 ppm. If yours runs high, blending tap water 50/50 with distilled or rainwater brings it into range. Crucially, using only pure water is *not* a good substitute; plants need those minerals [1].
Lead is rarely a plant concern at municipal levels, though older homes with aging pipes warrant a tap-side test, especially if you're growing edible container vegetables [1].
The bottom line: get your city's water report, run the numbers, and stop worrying — your tap water is almost certainly fine.
For those of us who love a homegrown onion but are tired of the seasonal feast-or-famine cycle, The Millennial Gardener is shaking things up. In his video, "The ONLY Way You'll Grow Onions From Now: On INSANE Harvests!", he challenges the conventional wisdom that onions are a seasonal crop, confessing he spent years making what he now considers a "big mistake" by following "expert" advice for single, large summer harvests [1]. Instead, he advocates for a revolutionary year-round approach, promising "insane harvests that never stop." This method means no more waiting a whole year for your next batch of homegrown onions. He provides a detailed onion growing schedule, along with essential tips and tricks for successful planting, harvesting, curing, and storage, helping gardeners enjoy a continuous supply. If you're looking to transform your onion patch into a non-stop production line, this fresh perspective might just be the game-changer you need.
Yesterday's rainfall: 0.13 in
Today's growing degree-days (base 50°F): 24.2
| Day | High | Low | Precip | Conditions |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Sun, May 17 | 85° | 63° | — | Fog |
| Mon, May 18 | 88° | 65° | — | Overcast |
| Tue, May 19 | 82° | 68° | 0.02 in (79%) | Light drizzle |
| Wed, May 20 | 68° | 44° | 0.17 in (79%) | Slight rain showers |
Today in the garden, we're diving deep into some horticultural wisdom! Ashley from Gardening In Canada, a soil and plant science expert, has done us all a huge favor by scientifically debunking popular internet tomato hacks so we don't have to [1]. She reminds us that gardening advice needs to be specific to our local conditions, but her analysis of common myths is widely applicable. For instance, she thoroughly disproves the idea that burying organic materials like fish heads, eggshells, or banana peels in the planting hole will immediately feed your tomatoes. As she explains, tomatoes can't "eat" these directly; it takes time for decomposition and nutrient release, which isn't always beneficial in the short term, and can even attract pests or cause issues. Instead, Ashley champions science-backed methods like consistent fertilizing and managing temperature differentials for optimal growth [1].
Meanwhile, for our friends in the Sunshine State, Homegrown Florida shares a "controversial" but tried-and-true method for planting fruit trees in challenging Florida conditions, specifically its sugar-beach sand [2]. While many advise against adding amendments directly to the planting hole, this gardener strongly recommends incorporating compost and fruit tree fertilizer. Why? Florida's sandy soil offers little moisture retention or nutrients, so these additions create a supportive micro-environment for the young tree's first few months. The process also involves digging a hole twice as wide and deep as the root ball, filling it with water twice to ensure proper drainage, planting the tree about six inches *above* the soil line to account for settling, and compacting the soil firmly. A meticulous watering schedule – daily for a week, then every other day, then every third day, before settling into a weekly routine – ensures the tree establishes well in its sandy home [2].
Source Footnote List: [1] Gardening In Canada — https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kU-j0kpg2o4 [2] Homegrown Florida — https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Sh-XfGtMNC4
Yesterday's rainfall: None
Today's growing degree-days (base 50°F): 15.3
| Day | High | Low | Precip | Conditions |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Sat, May 16 | 79° | 52° | — | Overcast |
| Sun, May 17 | 84° | 59° | — | Overcast |
| Mon, May 18 | 82° | 62° | 0.00 in (5%) | Light drizzle |
| Tue, May 19 | 82° | 66° | 0.10 in (63%) | Slight rain showers |
It turns out that a soil test, while a valuable tool, isn't the complete picture for understanding your garden's health. Ashley from Gardening In Canada, a soil scientist, explains that even if your test indicates ample nutrients, your plants can still starve [1]. The key takeaway is that a soil test is merely a "snapshot in time," revealing the *total* amount of nutrients present, not necessarily what's *bioavailable* to your plants [1].
Think of it this way: plants only absorb nutrients that are dissolved in water within their root zone. Several factors influence this availability, including root health, microbial activity, moisture levels, soil temperature, and even the plant's age [1]. Essentially, your soil isn't a pantry where plants can just pick what they need. There are three primary mechanisms that can work against nutrient uptake: fixation, lock-up, and immobilization. For instance, soils with high pH, common in some prairie regions, can lock up essential nutrients like calcium and magnesium, making them inaccessible despite their abundance [1].
Crucially, microbes are far more than just "decorations" in your soil; they are essential mediators. They perform a vital process called mineralization, converting organic matter and even conventional fertilizers into forms plants can actually utilize [1]. This microbial activity is sensitive to conditions like moisture, temperature, and the amount of organic material available. This explains why gardeners often see stressed, stunted plants in the spring, especially after transplanting, when microbial activity is typically low, regardless of the soil's inherent nutrient content [1].
For those considering professional soil testing, Ashley advises using the same lab consistently. Soil tests are calibrated estimates, and using different labs can yield varying results, making it challenging to track improvements or adjust your practices effectively [1]. Rather than treating results as commandments, view your soil test as a diagnostic tool – a map – to help you understand if your gardening methods are making positive changes. Focusing on overall soil health, including encouraging robust microbial life and maintaining optimal pH, is often more impactful than simply chasing nutrient numbers [1].
For those looking to boost their nutritional intake directly from the garden, it turns out you don't need expensive protein powders or a diet solely reliant on animal products. According to GrowVeg, a variety of muscle-boosting plants can be easily cultivated at home, challenging the common assumption that protein primarily comes from meat or dairy [1]. Beyond providing essential protein for healthy muscles and bones, many of these crops also enrich your soil by fixing nitrogen from the air.
Beans are highlighted as particularly easy and rewarding protein powerhouses. Broad beans, also known as fava beans, are "devastatingly easy to grow" and offer 8 grams of protein per 100 grams. Simply push their large seeds into the soil and provide some string support as they grow tall. For an even higher protein punch, soybeans (edamame) provide an impressive 36 grams of protein per 100 grams. While they might seem like an unusual choice for temperate climates, fast-maturing varieties can yield a good crop when sown in late spring into warm soil, planted two seeds per hole, about 1-2 inches deep and 6 inches apart. Climbing beans, despite having a slightly lower protein content of 1.5-2 grams per 100 grams (including the pod), are praised as "vertical protein factories" for their sheer abundance and continuous harvest all summer long, requiring support like a teepee or trellis. Other legumes like chickpeas and lentils are also briefly mentioned as excellent alternatives to consider [1].
For those with green thumbs in the Sunshine State, you know that Florida gardening comes with its own unique set of challenges. Homegrown Florida recently delved into some of the "drama queen" vegetables that give gardeners the most grief in the region, highlighting how the state's distinct climate and environmental conditions can truly test one's patience [1]. Topping the list of notorious plants is the cucumber, often proving tricky to cultivate successfully [1]. Thankfully, this seasoned Florida gardener doesn't just present the problems; they also offer a wealth of practical tips, specific variety recommendations, and personal insights. Their advice aims to make growing these difficult veggies more rewarding, transforming what can feel like a losing battle into a thriving, productive garden [1].
Yesterday's rainfall: None
Today's growing degree-days (base 50°F): 5.5
| Day | High | Low | Precip | Conditions |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Fri, May 15 | 72° | 39° | — | Overcast |
| Sat, May 16 | 81° | 54° | 0.10 in (69%) | Slight rain |
| Sun, May 17 | 75° | 60° | 0.15 in (43%) | Dense drizzle |
| Mon, May 18 | 82° | 63° | — | Overcast |
If you've been diligently pruning your tomato plants by removing those little "suckers," prepare for a bit of a gardening plot twist! One expert is strongly urging home gardeners to *stop* this common practice, arguing that it's actually hurting your plants and significantly reducing your harvest [1].
The Millennial Gardener contends that much of the advice floating around about removing tomato suckers – those shoots that grow in the 'armpit' of a leaf and stem – is misguided. Far from being a helpful technique, taking them off can stress your plants, make them more susceptible to disease, and most critically, drastically cut down on the amount of fruit they produce.
This advice is particularly crucial for certain types of tomatoes. If you're growing determinate, semi-determinate, or dwarf varieties, the message is clear: *never* remove the suckers. For determinate tomatoes, which grow to a predetermined bush-like height, their flowers and future fruit literally grow *from* these suckers. Chop them off, and you're chopping off your yield. Semi-determinate types, which start vining but then bush out heavily, also produce their fruit-bearing flowers on these side shoots. And dwarf tomatoes? They're essentially little bushes, relying entirely on those suckers for their prolific blooms. The argument is that healthy, bushy plants with their suckers intact will yield an "extreme" amount of flowers and fruit, with the dense foliage even providing natural protection from pests and sun [1].
While indeterminate tomatoes are the only type where sucker removal is even a topic of discussion, the overwhelming recommendation for most home gardeners is to let those suckers grow, especially if you want a bountiful harvest. It seems that sometimes, less pruning is truly more!
Sources: [1] The Millennial Gardener — https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LR_rZQHNnio
Yesterday's rainfall: 0.06 in
Today's growing degree-days (base 50°F): 3.0
| Day | High | Low | Precip | Conditions |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Thu, May 14 | 61° | 46° | 0.00 in (7%) | Light drizzle |
| Fri, May 15 | 70° | 41° | — | Overcast |
| Sat, May 16 | 74° | 54° | 0.51 in (71%) | Moderate rain showers |
| Sun, May 17 | 78° | 60° | 0.20 in (58%) | Dense drizzle |
There's a reason victory gardens made a comeback during World War II — and if the seed shortages at your local garden center are any indication, history may be quietly repeating itself. Ashley, a soil scientist and lifelong gardener from Canada, makes a compelling case that reaching for a trowel right now is less about a hobby and more about a quiet act of self-determination [1].
Her argument is straightforward: when global supply chains buckle, fertilizer prices spike, and geopolitical tensions rattle the food system, the people who fare best are the ones who've been growing at least *some* of their own food. She points to a surge in seed and soil purchasing that closely mirrors what happened around 2020 — stores struggling to keep seed packets on shelves, a fresh wave of first-time gardeners, and a general sense that the ground beneath the global food system feels less stable than it did a few years ago.
What's especially refreshing about her take is the antidote to overwhelm she offers: you don't need acres of land to matter. Growing your own tomatoes for the year is a meaningful step. Starting small builds momentum, and momentum builds resilience — both in the garden and, she argues, in your mental health. The "all or nothing" thinking that leads people to give up before they've even started is itself worth addressing, which is why she draws a surprisingly natural parallel between tending a garden and tending your mind.
Whether you're gardening out of anxiety or ambition, the message lands the same way: a little soil under your fingernails beats helplessness every time.
Yesterday's rainfall: None
Today's growing degree-days (base 50°F): 4.5
| Day | High | Low | Precip | Conditions |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Wed, May 13 | 61° | 48° | 0.06 in (83%) | Moderate drizzle |
| Thu, May 14 | 60° | 46° | 0.05 in (11%) | Light drizzle |
| Fri, May 15 | 61° | 41° | — | Overcast |
| Sat, May 16 | 72° | 54° | 0.24 in (58%) | Slight rain showers |
Yesterday's rainfall: None
Today's growing degree-days (base 50°F): 4.1
| Day | High | Low | Precip | Conditions |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Tue, May 12 | 68° | 40° | — | Fog |
| Wed, May 13 | 63° | 48° | 0.10 in (57%) | Dense drizzle |
| Thu, May 14 | 54° | 43° | 0.10 in (46%) | Light drizzle |
| Fri, May 15 | 61° | 40° | — | Overcast |
It turns out that your garden's ultimate success might be decided much earlier than you think—specifically, in the first 30 days after planting [1]. Ashley from Gardening In Canada, who holds a Bachelor's in soil science, explains that many gardeners mistakenly believe problems emerge later in the season, but the foundation for a thriving harvest is often laid down in May and June, or whenever your early growing season occurs [1]. She calls this the "30-day root lock window," emphasizing the critical role of strong, healthy roots established early on [1].
The biggest factor, especially for those in colder climates, is soil temperature. Root enzymes, crucial for nutrient uptake and microbial activity, slow down significantly in cold soil (below 10°C or 50°F), particularly affecting phosphorus availability [1]. This can stall a plant's growth, leading to yellowing leaves with green veins, even if nutrients are present. So, investing in a soil thermometer is key to knowing when your specific plants (like brassicas needing 45-50°F vs. tomatoes/peppers preferring 60°F) are ready for planting [1].
When transplanting, Ashley advises against the classic "sink tomatoes deep" method for cold climates. This advice originated from studies in hot regions like Florida, where deeper planting provides cooler, beneficial soil temperatures. However, in colder areas, burying plants too deep can place their roots in functionally stalled cold soil. Instead, monitor your soil temperature at different depths and plant the root ball where the temperature is ideal, often closer to the surface in cooler zones [1]. She also stresses being gentle with roots during transplanting, as damaged roots require precious time to rebuild, delaying above-ground growth. Finally, opt for smaller bedding plants from the store; they generally adapt better and experience less transplant stress than larger, more mature ones [1].
Yesterday's rainfall: None
Today's growing degree-days (base 50°F): 0.0
| Day | High | Low | Precip | Conditions |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Mon, May 11 | 56° | 41° | — | Overcast |
| Tue, May 12 | 69° | 37° | — | Overcast |
| Wed, May 13 | 58° | 43° | 0.42 in (90%) | Moderate rain showers |
| Thu, May 14 | 50° | 43° | 0.21 in (26%) | Light drizzle |
Good news for all you green thumbs out there who've ever stood in the gardening aisle wondering which bag of compost truly gives you the best bang for your buck! The Millennial Gardener has done the heavy lifting for us this week, undertaking a comprehensive mission to rank nearly every compost available from major big box stores and even a local bulk supplier [1].
They meticulously tested and rated each product on a combined score of value (price) and quality (composition, particle size, feel, finish, and even a sniff test), confirming a suspicion many of us have: a higher price doesn't always guarantee superior quality. For instance, while Timberline's Soil Cow Manure & Compost offered a decent value given its low price point, earning a "fairly respectable" 6.5/10, their Timberline Mushroom Compost was a significant step up. This "dramatically different" product, praised for its much finer texture, sandy component, and overall "really nice stuff" feel, scored a solid 7/10. It shows that even within the same brand, quality can vary significantly [1]. An interesting find was also Happy Grow Organic Mushroom Compost, which, despite having a larger particle size than some, stood out as the *only* organic certified option among those tested, a key factor for those prioritizing organic practices [1]. This kind of deep dive is incredibly helpful for navigating the often-confusing world of soil amendments, ensuring we make informed choices for our gardens without breaking the bank or compromising on quality.
If you're anything like us, when your garden yields an abundance of beautiful fruit, the immediate thought is often, "How can I make this last?" This week, we've got a fantastic idea for extending the joy of your strawberry harvest well into the warmer months, courtesy of Homegrown Florida [1]. They shared a delightful recipe for a homemade strawberry lemonade concentrate that you can can and enjoy all summer long.
This concentrate is surprisingly simple to make, even if you’re new to canning. The process starts by blending three cups of crushed strawberries with two cups of fresh lemon juice – they note it took about eight very juicy lemons for that amount! After a quick simmer, you can optionally strain the mixture for a super smooth texture, though they mention it's perfectly fine to leave the strawberry bits in for a more rustic feel. The magic happens next with the addition of three cups of sugar, heating it just enough to dissolve without reaching a full boil, which is key to preventing it from turning into jam instead of concentrate.
Once the sugar is dissolved, the concentrate is poured into jars with a quarter-inch headspace, sealed, and then water bath canned for 10 minutes, making it shelf-stable. Imagine having this vibrant, homemade concentrate ready to mix with water and pour over ice whenever you crave a refreshing drink by the pool or on a hot afternoon! It’s a brilliant way to capture the essence of peak-season strawberries and enjoy a taste of summer long after the harvest is over [1].
Yesterday's rainfall: 0.05 in
Today's growing degree-days (base 50°F): 3.1
| Day | High | Low | Precip | Conditions |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Sun, May 10 | 61° | 46° | — | Overcast |
| Mon, May 11 | 56° | 41° | — | Overcast |
| Tue, May 12 | 61° | 37° | 0.01 in (70%) | Light drizzle |
| Wed, May 13 | 57° | 49° | 0.26 in (76%) | Moderate rain |
It seems like Ashley from "Gardening In Canada," a soil scientist by trade, is here to ease our cold-climate gardening worries and offer some crucial advice on what healthy garden growth *should* look like right now [1]. She reminds us that our gardens might not be failing, but simply "falling behind" without us realizing it, especially after a notoriously long and cold spring.
Her top recommendation, backed by her expertise, is to invest in a rapid-test soil temperature thermometer [1]. This isn't just a gadget; it's a vital tool. Ashley shared that while her soil was 50°F just last week, sunnier beds have now officially hit the magical 60°F mark. This is a game-changer, indicating it's finally warm enough to plant those heat-loving crops like tomatoes and corn, though she cautions against planting them in perpetually shaded areas.
Beyond temperature, Ashley's video delves into other common issues that can slow development, such as understanding seedling size expectations, the impact of pot size and root restriction, and common watering mistakes [1]. She also helps gardeners identify the difference between healthy and stressed plants, sharing insights into the soil science behind stalled growth and how those chilly nights fundamentally alter development.
On a tour of her own Zone 3 garden, she showcases a fully shaded bed dedicated entirely to purple kohlrabi – a clever choice, as leafy greens and root vegetables thrive where fruiting plants would struggle [1]. Other areas feature caged kale, patty pan squash, cucumbers, and even sunflowers, with Ashley transparently anticipating leggy growth for some due to limited sun exposure. It’s a wonderful reminder that even seasoned gardeners are constantly observing, experimenting, and adapting to their unique conditions, always with a scientific eye.
If you've ever battled with stubborn clay soil, you might have heard whispers about expanded shale as a potential solution. Our friends at *Garden Fundamentals* recently dug into this very topic, asking if this amendment truly lives up to its claims [1].
Expanded shale is essentially shale rock that's been heated to high temperatures, causing it to puff up and create air pockets, much like vermiculite or perlite, but with the added benefit of being much more stable and long-lasting. Proponents, particularly from some Texas A&M extension offices where this product is widely produced, suggest it can improve the diggability of clay and help soil retain water [1].
However, the scientific evidence to back these claims for general garden use is surprisingly thin. While a few studies indicate expanded shale can technically improve some soil measurements, like reducing bulk density, actual plant growth doesn't consistently improve. Most plants seem to fare just as well with or without it, with the exception of a few specialized plants that inherently struggle in clay. Even studies showing some benefits note inconsistent results across different years and plant types [1].
It's also worth noting that despite some manufacturers calling it a "natural product," expanded shale is quite man-made. It requires mining and then intense energy to heat, giving it a significant environmental footprint. While it does have specialized uses – many succulent and bonsai enthusiasts find it beneficial for their specific needs – for the average gardener looking to amend a large bed of clay, it's not a practical solution. It's expensive, hard to find in garden-appropriate quantities, and its widespread benefits are not strongly supported by research [1]. So, for now, it seems other methods for improving clay soil, like adding organic matter, remain the more reliable and accessible choice.
Yesterday's rainfall: 0.07 in
Today's growing degree-days (base 50°F): 10.1
| Day | High | Low | Precip | Conditions |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Sat, May 9 | 69° | 51° | 0.10 in (48%) | Slight rain |
| Sun, May 10 | 58° | 48° | — | Overcast |
| Mon, May 11 | 50° | 39° | — | Overcast |
| Tue, May 12 | 59° | 36° | 0.00 in (68%) | Light drizzle |
There's a growing buzz in the gardening world about using wool as a soil amendment, and *Garden Fundamentals* recently explored its potential and pitfalls [1]. Primarily, gardeners are interested in waste wool, coarse wool, or mill waste—not the apparel-grade stuff—using it either as raw clumps or processed pellets.
Wool offers several intriguing benefits: it's excellent at retaining moisture, expanding significantly when wet, much like peat moss. It also boasts a high nitrogen content (around 9-0-2 NPK), along with sulfur and other micronutrients, which are slowly released as the keratin-rich material decomposes over a long period—potentially 2 to 5 years. This makes it a great choice for long-term soil building and aeration, as the expanding pellets can create beneficial channels for roots.
As a mulch, raw wool can help retain soil moisture and regulate temperature, though it can be a bit tricky to handle and may blow away when dry. Pellets, being easier to incorporate, are often dug into the soil as an amendment. However, be mindful of quantity: too much (e.g., 15-20% of potting media) can actually harm plants.
While some claim wool pellets deter slugs, scientific studies, including those by the RHS, and numerous gardener trials suggest otherwise—slugs aren't bothered by the texture [1]. The biggest drawback for most home gardeners is cost. Commercially available wool pellets are significantly more expensive per pound of nitrogen than conventional fertilizers. Therefore, while wool is a perfectly good organic material for improving soil and providing nutrients, its value largely depends on how you acquire it. If you have a free or cheap source, perhaps from a local sheep farmer, it's a wonderful addition. Otherwise, more economical options often exist [1].
With rising food costs and increased concerns about global stability on many people's minds, our friends at GrowVeg offer a wonderfully pragmatic solution: home gardening [1]. In their video "10 Easy Survival Crops (Don’t Starve!)," the host, Ben, emphasizes that by cultivating simple crops, individuals can significantly reduce their food bills, ensure a steady supply of sustenance, and gain "peace of mind no matter what's going on in the news" [1].
The foundational principle for enhancing food security, Ben reminds us, is surprisingly straightforward: "Grow what you eat." He highlights the importance of focusing on crops that form the "backbone to your everyday meals," rather than just occasional treats. This strategy ensures a reliable supply of staples, leading to genuine food security and notable cost savings. For example, Ben identifies potatoes, onions, garlic, and tomatoes as his core staples, praising them as "fantastic" and "easy to grow" [1].
Beyond personal preference, several critical factors should guide your crop selection: * Climate Suitability: Choose varieties that flourish in your local conditions. * Nutritional Value & Calories: Prioritize crops offering good nutrition and high-calorie density, especially vital during economic strains. * Value for Money: Select crops that provide excellent returns on investment compared to their supermarket prices. * Year-Round Enjoyment: Consider how crops can be stored or preserved to extend their availability throughout the year [1].
This sensible approach empowers gardeners to take a proactive step towards greater self-sufficiency, fostering both practical resilience and a deeper sense of security in uncertain times.
*** Source Footnote List: [1] GrowVeg — https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t6ncj3fDzcM
For those in Florida looking to cultivate potatoes, a unique approach promises success even with the state's challenging climate. The traditional practice of "hilling" – piling soil around the plant as it grows – isn't necessary when opting for fast-growing potato varieties, which mature within 90 days, perfectly suiting Florida's limited cool-season windows [1].
Successful potato cultivation in Florida hinges on selecting the right varieties and precise timing. Fast-maturing options like Huckleberry Gold (purple exterior, yellow interior), Golden Nugget, Cow White, and certain Kennebec styles are recommended. These varieties allow for a harvest before extreme heat sets in [1].
Loose, well-draining soil is crucial for tuber development, so tilling is a must for in-ground planting, or at least a thorough loosening for raised beds. When it comes to nutrients, chicken manure fertilizer is highly praised for its balanced micronutrients and ability to adjust soil pH. Otherwise, a general-purpose fertilizer with a slightly higher nitrogen content for early leaf growth, transitioning to phosphorus and potassium for tuber development, will do [1].
Planting timing varies by region in Florida: Central Florida gardeners typically plant in January, North Florida waits until February, and South Florida can start as early as November or December, depending on the onset of cool weather. While brief cold snaps are possible, covering plants offers protection. For these fast-growing varieties, the tubers develop quickly and stay deeper in the soil, eliminating the need for hilling to prevent greening [1].
Source Footnotes: [1] Homegrown Florida — https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XnLItQtgdtg
Sometimes, the simplest acts make the biggest difference, and it’s a beautiful reminder that we have the power to create the community we long for. As seen in a recent video from Homegrown Florida, the sentiment is clear: while we often talk about needing "the village," we must first be willing to *be* that village for others [1].
The inspiration came from a practical, heartfelt place: preparing two large meals for a sister-in-law recovering from foot surgery, whose husband was juggling caring for her, their children, and elderly parents. It's a situation many can relate to, where a family is stretched thin and a helping hand is invaluable. This simple act of kindness sparked a deeper reflection on how we often step up during major life events like new babies or bereavements, but the real magic happens when we extend that same care proactively, day-to-day [1].
The message encourages us to actively seek opportunities to contribute, whether it's dropping off a meal, sharing garden produce with those facing food insecurity, or even just buying coffee for the person behind you. It's about stepping out of our comfort zones and offering joy without expecting anything in return. The beautiful takeaway? By focusing on what we can give, we often find that everything else falls into place, creating a more connected and supportive world for everyone [1].
It seems Hoocho has been busy behind the scenes, recently addressing his slight absence from YouTube in an "Updates and Things To Come" video [1]. He admitted that while he jokes about his "boss" (himself) being lenient, he does feel the pressure to deliver content, especially for his patrons. However, he's firmly prioritizing quality, stating he'd "prefer not to waste your time and deliver a video for the sake of a video" if there's nothing worthwhile to share. He also revealed that "some of these videos take a long time to make," which is a key reason for the gaps.
One significant change is his studio set, which is currently "quite bare" as he's redesigning it. He'd previously housed indoor plants under a large grow light, which, while visually appealing, was "chewing through electricity" to the tune of "about $150 a month." With the plants removed, he aims to make the space more suitable for filming informational content and showcasing new 3D prints.
Viewers can look forward to some highly anticipated projects. Hoocho is putting the finishing touches on a distillation video that's been "4 months in the making," documenting the transformation of "57 L of mead" into "honeyshine," a process that even involved beekeeping to collect the necessary honey. This elaborate video is slated to be the next upload for both his main Hoocho channel and the "All the Gear" channel. He also hinted at another 35 L of mead currently cold crashing, with its video also taking longer than expected. Hoocho is even inviting viewer input on the redesign of his main set, so fans might get a chance to help shape his future backdrop [1].
Yesterday's rainfall: None
Today's growing degree-days (base 50°F): 2.0
| Day | High | Low | Precip | Conditions |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Fri, May 8 | 61° | 43° | — | Overcast |
| Sat, May 9 | 69° | 50° | — | Overcast |
| Sun, May 10 | 58° | 48° | 0.03 in (33%) | Light drizzle |
| Mon, May 11 | 50° | 39° | 0.01 in (3%) | Light drizzle |
It seems we might be inadvertently "killing them one tree at a time" when it comes to the trees gracing our parking lots, according to a recent observation from OSU's Buckeye Yard & Garden Line [1]. This isn't just hyperbole; it points to a significant challenge for urban trees that are often placed in incredibly harsh environments. Parking lots are concrete and asphalt islands, absorbing and radiating heat, creating a furnace-like microclimate for any plant trying to survive there. Limited root space due to surrounding hardscapes, poor soil compaction from heavy machinery during installation, and insufficient access to water are common culprits. These trees, intended to provide much-needed shade, improve air quality, and soften the urban landscape, often face an uphill battle from day one. Their struggle highlights the critical need for thoughtful urban planning and ongoing care. Simply planting a tree isn't enough; ensuring it has the proper conditions—adequate soil volume, regular watering, and protection from compaction and vehicle damage—is essential for its long-term survival and ability to deliver its myriad benefits to our communities.
If you're already thinking about your garden this spring, here's a crucial tip from The Millennial Gardener: don't wait until you see signs of disease to take action [1]. He stresses that once common garden diseases, especially fungal ones that thrive in wet spring conditions, take hold, they're incredibly difficult, if not impossible, to eradicate [1].
Instead, the best offense is a good defense, starting right now. The Millennial Gardener advocates for a proactive, three-pronged strategy to keep your plants healthy and disease-free: minimizing plant stress, maximizing overall plant health, and fostering biological symbiosis [1]. This can look like providing adequate shade during hot spells to prevent heat stress and ensuring your plants are well-nourished, giving them the strength to ward off potential invaders [1]. It's all about building a resilient garden ecosystem before problems even have a chance to sprout.
If you're meticulously moving your tender seedlings outdoors for a few hours a day to "harden them off" before planting, you might be surprised to hear that you could be doing it all wrong! According to the plant science expert behind Gardening In Canada, many traditional hardening off practices are fundamentally flawed and lead to transplant shock, stunted growth, and sunscald [1].
Drawing on his Bachelor's of Science degree, he passionately argues against treating hardening off as a "punishment camp" where plants simply need to "toughen up." Instead, he advocates for a scientifically-backed approach that focuses on gradually acclimating plants to specific environmental stressors, rather than just increasing their time outdoors. The core issue, he explains, is that plants respond to physical factors like light intensity, wind, and water loss, not just the duration of their outdoor exposure. Ignoring these physiological responses by merely "ramping up time, regardless of the stress you're placing your plant in," results in "sad looking plants" [1].
He details two primary reasons why common schedules often fail: "Photoinhibition," or what he descriptively calls "The Sun Slap Syndrome," is the damage caused when indoor-grown seedlings, adapted to ideal conditions, are suddenly exposed to intense direct sunlight. Their leaves lack the necessary photosynthetic receptors and can burn or wilt, even in a short time. Secondly, "Stomatal Acclimation" refers to how plants regulate their "breathing" through microscopic pores called stomata. Sudden outdoor exposure can shock these systems, hindering the plant's ability to manage water loss and CO2 intake. The real goal, then, is to control "stress exposure, not time exposure," ensuring a smoother transition and healthier plants [1].
For Florida gardeners looking to cultivate a backyard orchard, selecting the right fruit tree variety is crucial for success, especially when navigating the offerings at big box stores [1]. A significant piece of regional advice highlights the importance of choosing trees that are truly suited for Florida's unique environment. For instance, citrus trees, while tempting, are generally best avoided from most retail outlets due to the widespread citrus greening disease, which often limits their lifespan to less than five years [1].
Instead, focus on other varieties with better prospects. Plums like 'Gulf Beauty' are a good option (though 'Gulf Rose' is often favored), but remember you'll need to purchase two different varieties for successful pollination [1]. 'Brown Turkey' figs and specific peach varieties are also strong contenders. For avocados, cold-hardy types such as 'Fantastic' come highly recommended. Mulberries, including the popular 'Pakistani' (be aware it grows quite large) and 'Red' varieties, are also excellent choices [1]. Always take the time to locate and verify the specific variety name on the plant tag, and make sure to pick a healthy-looking tree; one that's still in deep dormancy when others have already begun to leaf out might be best left behind [1].
Yesterday's rainfall: 0.13 in
Today's growing degree-days (base 50°F): 0.0
| Day | High | Low | Precip | Conditions |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Thu, May 7 | 55° | 40° | — | Overcast |
| Fri, May 8 | 56° | 43° | — | Overcast |
| Sat, May 9 | 68° | 48° | 0.51 in (46%) | Dense drizzle |
| Sun, May 10 | 53° | 42° | 0.03 in (34%) | Light drizzle |
Yesterday's rainfall: 0.24 in
Today's growing degree-days (base 50°F): 0.1
| Day | High | Low | Precip | Conditions |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Wed, May 6 | 54° | 46° | 0.15 in (100%) | Dense drizzle |
| Thu, May 7 | 52° | 41° | — | Overcast |
| Fri, May 8 | 59° | 43° | 0.20 in (63%) | Slight rain |
| Sat, May 9 | 63° | 48° | 0.50 in (63%) | Moderate rain |
If you're looking to level up your home growing game, two satisfying projects are calling your name this season — one for a single windowsill leaf, and one for a full backyard bed.
Start small: African violets are among the most rewarding plants to propagate, and according to Garden Fundamentals, the soil method beats the popular water-rooting technique hands down [1]. All you need is a healthy leaf (snipped from the bottom of the plant so it stays tidy), a small pot of well-draining mix — think perlite-heavy promix — and a simple plastic bag to trap humidity. The key insight here is restraint with water: since the leaf has no roots yet, it can't absorb much anyway, so soggy soil only invites rot. Tuck the stem and lower leaf into barely-moist soil, mist the inside of the bag, drape it loosely over the pot, and set it somewhere with low light. In two to three weeks you'll have roots; in another two to three, tiny baby plants. Even a half-leaf works for larger varieties. It's genuinely magical to watch [1].
Once you're ready to think bigger, raised beds open up a world of vegetables that simply struggle in containers or compacted ground. Homegrown Florida's top picks share a common theme: loose, well-draining, nutrient-rich soil that raised beds deliver naturally [2]. Carrots and onions need room to bulb without hitting hard resistance; tomatoes and lettuce crave even moisture to avoid cracking and bolting; peppers demand excellent drainage to dodge root rot; and garlic, potatoes, and melons all benefit from soil that warms quickly in spring. Even sprawling squash, notoriously prone to disease in humid climates, thrives when its roots aren't sitting in pooled water [2]. If you've just built your first raised bed, this list is essentially your planting blueprint.